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Black Widow Headers

30K views 38 replies 18 participants last post by  temporarykiwi 
#1 · (Edited)
GSX-S 1000 DE-CAT HEADER RACE PIPES
https://www.facebook.com/pg/blackwidowexhausts/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1863169250628070
Comment attached to one of the facebook pics:
"Please note, very small unbaffled end cans that rely on the catalytic converter to reduce the noise will become very loud (re-map may be required for simple metal tube designs as they may offer not back pressure)"

Blackwidow install instructions for anyone interested:
http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=70282723839622562653

 
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#2 ·
You left out the first part of the quote....

Please note, very small unbaffled end cans that rely on the catalytic converter to reduce the noise will become very loud (re-map may be required for simple metal tube designs as they may offer not back pressure)

All headers are metal tubes. Removing the catalytic converter and muffler is what would give you back pressure issues. Technically, anytime you make an exhaust modification, you should re-map. It looks like a solid system! I'd give them a try if they were in the USA.
 
#4 ·
You left out the first part of the quote....

Please note, very small unbaffled end cans that rely on the catalytic converter to reduce the noise will become very loud (re-map may be required for simple metal tube designs as they may offer not back pressure)
Edited. Ah yes, simple metal tube design refers to the end can not the headers themselves as I initially thought. Interestingly their gsxr headers specifically mentions not requiring remap for standard settings - I guess different bike, different requirements.
 
#3 ·
Under £400.
They also come with a dummy bracket to fasten the servo cables to, which fastens next to the chain guard.
 
#6 ·
Why do you "say" that? :confused:

I have the Arrow headers, and I was not that impressed.

The Arrow headers are slip fit + springs in the flangs/sleeves bolted to the top/exhaust ports.
I prefere the OEM and this (Black Widow) headers that are *bolted* tight to the top/exhaust ports.
This will require much less tolerance in design opposed to sleeves/springs that allow some more adjustments,
BUT, the sleeve/spring "fit" might induce some leaks although I have not had problems with my Arrows (nor Akra with similar design).

I see that Black Widow skips the tubes between header pipes which I think is good, due to no risk of leaks in this area either.
The effects on engine output is negligible, if there are any benefits at all with this design, even if the OEM also have these tubes between the header pipes.
But on the OEM they are welded=no risk of leaks.

And I see the Black Widow system have the same diameter on the end of the intermediate tube.
The Arrow have a bigger diameter which not all aftermarket can/link tube fits (Akrapovic end can does).
The thick gasket is supposed to sit between the intermediate tube (from headers) and the link pipe from the can.
I had to expand this link pipe to make my Mivv can+link pipe fit to the Arrow header/pipe.

It would be nice if both Arrow and Black Widow presented dyno-figures before/after their systems.
 
#13 ·
Ordered Black Widow Headers...

I just ordered the black widow headers. They should get from Bedfordshire, UK to my door in Mississippi in a week for the low low price of 45 pound sterling (whatever that figures out to in USD), plus 374 pound sterling for the headers/downpipes. I think I'm going to leave the stock end can on the bike with the new headers and see if the sound is satisfactory. I really like the fact that the black widow headers come with a servo motor bypass kit AND new exhaust gaskets. Plus, I can leave the stock heat shield on if I so choose. The M4 slip on allows the heat shield to be kept I believe. I'll report in once the pipes are installed.
 
#14 ·
If you can help someone I bought the Black widow exhaust manifolds and I'm very happy with it. They cost a lot less than the arrow and make a great noise even with the original final muffler.
 

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#15 ·
Black Widow Headers Installed...

My black widow headers came in from Britain to my door in Mississippi in 5 days (what a small world). I had to remove the front lightning bolt-looking fairings off of my naked model, the radiator, riders seat. You can basically take this bike apart with a set of allen keys and a 10mm socket.
Getting the servo cables and servo out of the bike was the most difficult part. Black widow includes a bracket to replace the existing bracket on the servo motor so that when the bike does its startup sequence it "senses" whatever it needs to sense on the servo to believe that it's in good order, but I accidentally moved the servo a smidge when removing it, and trying to get the servo back into the correct position without the bike giving me a C46 code ("SET valve is broken" code) coupled with the fact that I had to perform surgery for 30 minutes just to get the servo out made break down and order a healtech servo eliminator for this bike, which is the size of a quarter and plugs into the servo's wiring harness to eliminate the check engine light/F1 code.
I have a K&N filter, the stock end can, and Frank's tune from superbikeUK magazine on the power commander. The bike has a nice rumble at idle and a throaty angry shrieking when revved. It's sounds sick under hard acceleration up to redline and it pops and crackles when downshifting (which I think sounds cool).
I assume I'm now running way lean. Do any of y'all have a close-ish tune for my setup? I've looked all over at many different dyno graphs, but there aren't a lot of fuel tables.
 
#16 ·
My black widow headers came in from Britain to my door in Mississippi in 5 days (what a small world). I had to remove the front lightning bolt-looking fairings off of my naked model, the radiator, riders seat. You can basically take this bike apart with a set of allen keys and a 10mm socket.
Getting the servo cables and servo out of the bike was the most difficult part. Black widow includes a bracket to replace the existing bracket on the servo motor so that when the bike does its startup sequence it "senses" whatever it needs to sense on the servo to believe that it's in good order, but I accidentally moved the servo a smidge when removing it, and trying to get the servo back into the correct position without the bike giving me a C46 code ("SET valve is broken" code) coupled with the fact that I had to perform surgery for 30 minutes just to get the servo out made break down and order a healtech servo eliminator for this bike, which is the size of a quarter and plugs into the servo's wiring harness to eliminate the check engine light/F1 code.
I have a K&N filter, the stock end can, and Frank's tune from superbikeUK magazine on the power commander. The bike has a nice rumble at idle and a throaty angry shrieking when revved. It's sounds sick under hard acceleration up to redline and it pops and crackles when downshifting (which I think sounds cool).
I assume I'm now running way lean. Do any of y'all have a close-ish tune for my setup? I've looked all over at many different dyno graphs, but there aren't a lot of fuel tables.
How loud is it? Like do neighbors come out of their houses shaking their fists at you?
 
#18 ·
Don't like it too loud. Its like a beacon shouting to the cops "I'm over here, and going pretty fast!" haha

I think I'm gonna keep the stock exhaust for now. I want headers but i want to keep the muffler in the stock location so I can remove the passenger pegs and brackets, but the stock muffler and M4 seem pretty loud. With the brackets gone a Wilburs 641 Blueline shock and a carbon fiber rear hugger would look awesome on my blue naked.
 
#19 ·
I just installed the healtech servo eliminator, which took about 5 minutes and required 1 allen key and a phillips head. I have a PC5 installed and decided to go ahead and order an autotuner to match. The autotuner sensor screws into an 18mm bung, while the black widow headers came with a 13mm (stock) bung, so i'll have to come up with a solution for where I want to drill/mount the 18mm bung. I'll keep y'all posted...
 
#21 ·
hi ya'll, im considering getting a set of their headers as my handmade set took most of the impact when my bike tried to mate with a road sign, squashed collectors and cracked headers.
i checked out their site with a pipe builders eye, they are fairly good quality and design std and with a couple of tweaks to secondry pipes and tail pipe will be producing reasonable power increase i suspect, and the price is equal to just replacing the yoshi muffler my bike came fitted with
 
#22 · (Edited)
hi ya'll, i have ordered a set of black widow headers and a carbon muffler, my insurance company were'nt sounding interested in i paying me for the costs involved with me building a replacement.
but lukily i had used the yoshimura muffler that my bike came with in conjunction with the pipe, this they are willing to cover, it cost $1100nz for a new one, i convinced the insurer that a black widow full exhaust system is approx the same price, so they have said if i obtain it , they will refund me once i have it / receipt. so its on its way, once crash repairs are completed i will analyse the exhaust dimensionally to see where best to mod for a fatter midrange torque curve, as i had with the pipe i made , so hoping to be back on road in a week or two
 
#24 ·
, im very impressed by how quick black widow deliver, i received the exhaust i ordered 5 days after order lodged, england being fairly close to as far away from new zealand as physically possible, was shipped via fedexpress who even collected the import duties and wizzed it thru our customs at record pace, ive had orders from usa that have taken 2-3 weeks due to our customs, so i will give them a prompt for their service, my insurance has just been approved , parts ordered - approx 2 weeks for them to turn up from japan !
 
#23 ·
I put a video on the youtubes of my bike entitled "gsx s1000 decat+flyby." I pasted the address below if y'all would like to hear the black widow headers with the stock end-can. It's a brief video:



I've removed the headers since this video was filmed and drilled a hole in the midpipe for a dynojet autotune. I'm planning on getting a fuel table built using the autotuner in the coming weeks and getting it posted on this forum for all to use/enjoy if they decide to buy some headers.
 
#26 ·
I have been running my autotuner targeting 13.2 in the powerband and 13.7 in the cruising range and just accepted some suggested trims a few minutes ago.

I officially have fire coming from the stock endcan on deceleration 😃.

It's starting to warm up in Mississippi so I'll keep letting the autotuner do its thing and post a map in the coming weeks if and when it stops making adjustments.
 
#27 ·
I installed a switch on the handle bars next to my thumb so I could turn the auto tune on only during acceleration or short constant throttle and speed use and then switch it off straight away, I rode back roads and tried to go through all the throttle positions and revs to tune the whole range , that was fun :) the reason I did this is this is how a dyno tuner tunes and also I found the map never settled due to the de-acceleration throwing it out, after three or four good runs for about an hour the map barely moved, I mainly used 4th gear,
I also only used 13.2 as I found I could feel the power surges with the different afr's which made the acceleration not smooth.
I can still get around 300km to a tank of fuel on the highway at 100-110km/h.
I'm not saying I have done everything the right way but just my way and I thought I'd share it that may give someone some tips .
My bike runs very smooth now, it still has a fairly responsive throttle but not a snatchy one.
 
#29 ·
I pretty much did everything the same but chose to leave the auto tuner on. I set the percent change to 0% fuel cut and a max of 3% adding fuel this would allow the fuel maps to be adjusted a little on the fly depending on different weather conditions.

After I had settled on a good map I did not accept any new trim tables

The auto tuner is useful beyond the initial creation of your map..... this is one of the chief benefits over a ecu reflash


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#31 ·
I'm away from home for a couple of days and will have a look when I get back , they mention leaving them cells empty out on the you tube tutorial from them from memory also.
I did have to put some negative figures on the 0% range around the 2-3000 rpm range as I would get an annoying sudden backfire when the fuel cut turned off, I can post them values also if you like if you get that problem
 
#35 ·
hi, ive had a few weeks use from a b/widow exhaust system, i really noticed the hole in the midrange, ive just completed the mods to the pipe, and test rode it, now its a completely different animal, huge fat midrange togeather with sweet topend, and that is with the retuned decibel killer.
basicly silky smooth bottom end then real grunt from 4k, topend kick from 7.5k, so pretty happy wih its performance now, not sure if i want to sell it now ! lol


Good stuff!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#36 ·
hi, ive had a few weeks use from a b/widow exhaust system, i really noticed the hole in the midrange, ive just completed the mods to the pipe, and test rode it, now its a completely different animal, huge fat midrange togeather with sweet topend, and that is with the retuned decibel killer.
basicly silky smooth bottom end then real grunt from 4k, topend kick from 7.5k, so pretty happy wih its performance now, not sure if i want to sell it now ! lol
Thinking of getting the black widow header( I’m in uk ) and running stock can but have read they strangle midrange at certain revs, what was your pipe mod?
Do you provide a mod service��
 
#37 ·
hi, i lengthened the secondary pipes (between the collecters) also ported the internal obstructions left from the tig welds, then ran full size tailpipe to the muffler, ( 300mm oblong carbon cannister type) last i shortened their decibel killers pipe and drilled extra holes to releive the amount of back pressure the d/b killer holds, i will post some pictures after ive cleaned it up with the pickle paste.
im selling the ex system as i only got it to temporarilly use while i fixed my own extractors, its had approx 3 weeks use, then modded it to remedy its short comings.it cost $1200nz delivered including our gst & import duties, but id sell it for $750nz, i still have its original packaging
 
#38 ·
hi, ive had a few weeks use from a b/widow exhaust system, i really noticed the hole in the midrange, ive just completed the mods to the pipe, and test rode it, now its a completely different animal, huge fat midrange togeather with sweet topend, and that is with the retuned decibel killer.
basicly silky smooth bottom end then real grunt from 4k, topend kick from 7.5k, so pretty happy wih its performance now, not sure if i want to sell it now ! lol
here is some pics of the modded pipe, i havent taken it off yet, as ive just got out of hospital , had a full wrist joint replacement.
 

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