I left my stock gaskets right where they were, had a bit of a hassle getting the primary pipes lined up properly. Had a bit of a gap on the #3 pipe but as I tightened them down equally it seemed to correct itself. Putting some miles on the new system and will check everything again like a first service type deal.
No problem, it was mentioned before but watch your lower right side plastic being too close / touching the header. Already made that mistake and melted a tiny bit of it, lesson learned.
I got the stock headers off tonight and was wondering about the gaskets too. I tried using a pick to get one off and ended up scratching the **** out of it. Hopefully it's nothing some horsepower stickers can't fix.
Oh and that header drop is a doozy. Luckily I caught it before waking everyone. Lay something pillowy soft underneath if you want to avoid damaging your donation to waste management!
If you're planning on getting a dyno tune later, you can unplug it at the injectors and leave it there until they need it to perfect the fueling. (This is for Trizman above)
Sweet! Reagenn, are you saying you CAN use your Yosh with no additional link adapter? The pic shows a space, but if needed as I have been saying, there are lots of link pipe adapters on Ebay.
I wish. No, it will have to have some sort of a piece put in.
I'm going around today to see if I can find someone that will do it. The Yoshi inlet and the m4 outlet are exactly the same size, so I may get something welding onto the Yoshi that will slip on the M4 outlet with a clamp.
That way if I or the next owner, ever want to go back to the M4 muffler it will just slip back on. Also, I can then always sell the Yoshi as a direct fit to an m4 system.
The only problem I see is that the Yoshi pipe is chromed and I'm not sure how it would look if you welded to it.
Got the headers on. I found that attaching the springs to the collector first caused the least frustration when it came to installation.
I have the header bolts only finger tight at the moment but I did run into the issue of the can hitting the swingarm. Anyone else experience the same?
I suppose I could bend the mount tab on the collector or put some washers between the tab and chassis to shim it out. Seems like a bit of an oversight by the designers.
Reagenn, sorry this is in pesos, its like $10, I keep saying if you search you can find link pipe adapters/extensions/connectors and don't have to weld
I'm not saying it's easy, but there are many companies out there that make link pipe extensions, need to research and contact them to get what you need. Unless you have a good local muffler shop that can do it
Rapido, I wish I had your optimism, but I have looked at a ton of link pipes. The problem is they would have to be just the right angle, length, diameter on both ends, etc.
And, it would probably still have to be modified to some degree at the muffler shop anyway, so I will probably just try a local shop first and go from there.
I tightened up the header bolts with a regular allen wrench since I couldn't get my torque wrench into some of the bolts. I didn't go hulk on the torque but got them on tight enough with a couple of flexed fingers and no body weight. Im sure it's less than the 17ft-lbs required though. Still ran into the issue of the can hitting the swingarm.
I tried forcefully pulling outward on the can which gave me a few mm of clearance but it would revert to hitting the swingarm once I tightened the collector mount bolt and rearset mount bolt. Tried pulling it out some more which did little to nothing but thought better of it since I felt like I could damage the rearset/rear brake master cylinder.
I suppose I can uninstall and attempt to reseat the headers but it was such a pain the first go around I'm thinking of just shimming the collector tab with some fender washers and a longer collector bolt (M4 supplied M8x140mm bolt is barely enough to get the nut on).
When you seated your can, did it go all the way up to the collector mount tab? Mine did not. The can tab bolt hole is elongated such that I feel like if the can were able to seat in just a little deeper, maybe it would clear the swingarm from a length perspective, if that makes any sense.
Another option may be to remove the rubber grommet on the rearset mount but then that probably would introduce some vibration. Or maybe I'm suppose to pull the grommet through the elongated can tab hole? That should pull the can outward, if it's even possible.
Dave, my muffler was right where yours is in that final picture. I put a screwdriver through the mount hole and into muffler bracket and pried it forward. While prying it forward, tighten the other mount bolt and nut down so that it holds everything in place. Then hopefully you can pull the screwdriver out and get the bolt thru the mount and bracket and have enough threads to start the nut. Tighten that down and it should pull everything into place somewhat.
If leave them in if I wasn’t replacing them. At least that way you only have to get a seal on the header side.
New gaskets are cheep. Stick some new ones in if you can
Not sure where you got the rubber grommet and washer for the collector bracket bolt, but it you took that out, could you not get a washer behind the bracket that would bring it out some?
Well I was thinking of taking my bike apart today, think my headers are going to be here today and if I can install them today that’d be ideal, any pointers or tips that helped you guys get the exhaust installed?
Depends on which stage. I took a lot of pictures planning to do a tutorial but it's pretty straightforward other than a couple of hangups here and there and even then it was nothing too serious. I'll likely have something up this weekend.
A long breaker bar, t handle spinner or long wrenches, and socket extensions and u-joint can make some tasks easier.
Well I was thinking of taking my bike apart today, think my headers are going to be here today and if I can install them today that’d be ideal, any pointers or tips that helped you guys get the exhaust installed?
out =gsxsdave;386066]No rubber grommet, only difference is a washer on mine.
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I got all the tools no issues there, just wondering if there was a trick you found that’d make something easier, I’m gona dive n in a little bit it’s only 7:40am here so I’m guessing I’m gona be sitting here for a while waiting for FedEx
Mounts to inside of rear mounting point. Mine is close but has never touch swing arm. I think I tightened the rear mount up first and worked my way forward tightening.
I’m thinking of leaving in the exhaust valve and moving the cables out of the way so I don’t have to worry about the lights on the dash, because I’m also doing the air box block off kit but I don’t want to worry about that light for now neither anyone think there’d be any issues with that till I get my ECU flashed or buy one from Roy
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