Ok, Just got this bike earlier this week. Ive been reading, researching like a mad man. More hours than my wife thinks is necessary lol. So much info, I have myself confused. My M4 exhaust is supposed to arrive monday. Ive done header replacement on multiple bikes, but never on a bike that has exhaust valves and servos etc. I will do a flash with Dano in a few weeks when funds become available again. So..... in easy terms.... what do I need to do to change out the exhaust. Do i need to do this "servo buddy" thing? Thanks for the help, again ive been reading everything I can, Im trying to make sure Im prepared with everything I need come install time.
Since you have done headers before, I would suggest:
As you remove the OEM exhaust; you have to disconnect & removethe cables for the exhaust servo. The actuator (motor) that pulls the servo cables is mounted on the back of the engine in front of the shock; you should remove the actuator & cables (beware scraped fingers). Trace the electrical supply for the actuator and you will find it disconnects on the left hand side rear fairing.
And then you install the M4 and do not need the "servo buddy" thing....... You will need to flash the ECU, or you will get a FI code.
The other option is to use the servo buddy thing, and leave the actuator electrically plugged in and in place; and fool the ECU into thinking the exhaust servo is still working.
The M4 headers comes with 02 hole that you can put your sensor in, so that should be fine until you get a flash.
It also comes with a piece that you can put on the SET valve motor if you want, but most everyone just goes ahead and pulls the whole motor and cables on out. If you do this (pull it out) and you don't have a flash yet, it will throw a light. I don't know if the bike will run normal with this light on or not. It might go into limp mode.
Most of us did the headers and flash at the same time, that way we didn't have to worry about dash fault lights.
Also, You might want to go ahead and plug off the PAIR valve at the airbox or pull the valve completly out and install block-off plates. I believe this is to eliminate popping on decel.
So, If i don't want to take a chance of throwing codes I need the servo buddy. It will be a few weeks before I flash. Maybe best to leave alone until after the flash?
So, If i don't want to take a chance of throwing codes I need the servo buddy. It will be a few weeks before I flash. How much do these cables, motors, actuator weigh? Maybe best to leave alone until after the flash?
My plan with all of this is to get everything together and then do it all at once. I'm currently stock piling pieces to the puzzle, then once I get everything I want to change I only have to tear it down once. I have an F model so it's even more worth it since apparently the fairings are a real pain to remove.
After thinking about it. I guess I will ride the way it is now, then first sign of a bad weather stretch, send the ECM off. Then start tearing everything apart. Sounds like a pain, so I guess I will do it all at once and save the $60 bucks that the "servo buddy" costs.... any other suggestions still welcome though. I have a "bike night" at the local drag strip Sep 15. Need to be ready by then, Im almost 50yrs old and it will be my first time doing some "legal" racing... Gonna take both bikes
IMO Save your money and pass on the servo buddy, get the ECU to Dano.
Reag said the M4 comes with a little piece for the servo motor, my Arrow one was aluminum. You have to disconnect the servo cables from the stock exhaust to remove them, and up underneath the seat near shock (tight fit to get to) left side, is a little black box which is the servo motor (follow the cables) Detach it. You then attach the supplied piece to the center post of the motor there, it acts as a “stop”, stopping the rotation of the motor, fooling the ECU to think the exhaust butterfly is still there. I guess you have to reinstall the servo motor box and hide the cables somewhere.
I unplugged and removed my servo motor completely as had the ECU flashed, so didn’t have to deal with this. If you are going to flash the ECU, you can choose to leave in or remove the 02 sensor. And definitely (at least) plug the PAIR valve hose with a marble right side underside of airbox. Search for info on the Forum, many discussions with pics somewhere
I don’t think it will take a full week to send and receive from Dano. Keep us posted on your progress!
Will do! Ive decided to do the flash sooner than previously planned. While the bike is down and the ECU is getting flashed... it will give me time to remove all that servo crap and dial in the exhaust.
Thanks for the easy to understand info everyone, I bought this bike on a whim while I was actively looking for another MT-09. So I've been trying to digest a lot of new info quickly.
I had a 2014 FZ-09 and loved it so much I was going to get the MT-09. Still love those bikes...fun as ****. But, after a couple days on this bike (and more miles on Suzuki than any other brand) I'm super happy, this bike is a keeper. I read a quote around here somewhere that rang true..... It was something like "you only hear people going from the FZ/MT-09 to the GSX-s1000, not the other way around". That rang true. I do love the low end torque of that CP3 though. Top end rush is no comparison though.
Did you mean “get the MT-10”? ‘Cause FZ-09 and MT-09 are the same bike! Look what you wrote above.
I do agree, the ‘09 has an incredible 3 cylinder motor, easy to wheelie, great fun, and I MUCH preferred the transmission gear ratios of the ‘09 over this GSXS. The 2 motors are night and day.
Anyways, back to installing your full M4 exhaust !
Yes. i meant what I wrote. I had FZ-09 and loved it. I had to sell it. Then when I was ready to get another naked, I was going to get another one (which is an upgraded, TC, ABS, adjustable suspension etc).The MT-10 is awesome but more than i wanted to spend. Yes the gear ratio is a little annoying on this bike but at 80mph even in 6th gear, she takes of like a rocket!
Perhaps I missed something said in this Thread, but my recollection is that the ECU Flasher (e.g. Dano's) can if asked to do so, remove the alarm feedback from the connected servo actuator/sensor.
Like all the sensor's, many reporting system's can be 'unchecked' by him.
Rapido1 and others who have used him say that he rings you, talks about what you want and and plan to do, before he does anything to your ECU.
There is nothing wrong with unchecking the sensor or exhaust servo at the flash, with those parts still working on the bike.
It's just if they fail to stay in Suzuki specification, you won't know (or care as you are saying that eventually you are wanting to remove them).
The one's that are unchecked don't stop the bike running, the essential alarms like oil pressure, TPS etc are never touched.
So you can flash it, then remove PAIR, Servo etc at your leisure with no alarms from them after the time of the flash or just leave them there in place too (but why?)
Rob, he initially was not going to be able to get the flash until several weeks after the header install. We were trying to talk him through what to expect without the flash.
I believe he's now decided to do both at the same time, which is a better solution.
Ok, the M4 system is in house. Ermax rear cowl fitted last night. Rad guard delivered. Levers should be in mailbox tonight as well as Saddleman seat. Block off plates ordered. just filled the tank, so I need to put on some miles by the weekend. Hopefully send the ECU on Monday morning. Besides a few more bits to add this winter.....I'm going to "leaveitstock".
Work started yesterday. ECU in transit to Danos. Pair blocked. Started stock exhaust system tear down. The SET valve servo thingy is a B$#@*! Added a battery tender pigtail with USB, and mounted garage door opener.
Are you going to block off the O2 sensor and tell Dan to disable it? A few of us with M4 systems that left our O2 sensor intact get a lumpy/fluctuating idle and I was wondering if removing the sensor and disabling it in the ECU will smooth it out.
Sounds like you are well on your way to creating the beast of your dreams. Looking forward to seeing pics and hearing how you like it once everything is in place.
What exactly is giving you issues? Do you have the bolts out of the radiator so you can pull it back and bungie it to something? Also, be sure to cover the radiator coil fins with cardboard to keep from damaging them.
Getting the head pipes seated into the block is where I’m at. I do have the radiator bungeed away but it didn’t really give much space. The radiator hoses aren’t very long.
A few pointers: give the muffler as much clearance with the swingarm as possible prior to tightening the bolts or they can touch, remove the servo motor by removing its bracket first which will allow you to wiggle the motor over the chain guard, and hand tighten the header bolts with a regular allen wrench rather than follow the service manual torque specs or you'll bend the flanges. Good luck.
Pretty much in holding pattern waiting on ECU to come back. ECU was delivered to Dano yesterday, talked to him last night. I had to get a longer carriage bolt than supplied with the system. just like some one else. Other than that, fitment is good. Hoping to be able to ride again by late next week. The waiting sucks.
Ok.... All back together, and no extra parts or pieces, that's a good sign. Haven't rode it yet due to the lower cowl is slightly touching the brake side header pipe. So, now I'm trying to figure out what to do about this. Any ideas that don't involve cutting and shaping the cowl? I don't trust myself in the plastic fab/repair field. Seems super loud even with the DB killer in.
Nevermind...after applying some "cool tape", I reassembled with a gentler hand and i have just a few millimeters of clearance, plus the tape. I think I'm good. Will ride to work this afternoon, and report back late tonight.
Ok since you've got everything together I'd like to pick your brain.
Currently I have the fairings off.
Plan on the following as my game plan.
1. Undo radiator bolts
2. Bungee to forks
3. Unbolt 2 fasteners on exhaust valve motor
4. Undo cables from exhaust
5. Unplug the exhaust motor from wire plug and get it off bike.
6. Undo oxygen sensor
7. Take off exhaust heat shield and then unbolt slip on
8. Undo headers from manifolds
9. Drop the OEM exhaust system
10. Loosely fit m4 headers
11. Add mid pipe and slip on with longer bolt
12. Add springs
13. Wiggle on fitment to taste
Between step 10 do you suggest putting on headers first or spring up exhaust system first then mount to exhaust manifolds?
I get free ear plugs at work. I put the next level of DB killer in it. Toned it down, but haven't got a proper ride in yet. I've got 5 days off starting tomorrow, I'll put a couple hundred miles on it the next few days.
Your plan seems good. I put my springs on last mostly because I had a “spring tool” from a previous system install. I wanted to check for leaks before I did that final step, just in case I had to do some reassembling.
Here are the steps i took.
1. Fit each header flush to manifolds, finger tightened bolts.
2. Added collector pipe, tapped header pipes with rubber mallet until collector was snug and barely lined up with its hangar bolt.
Then i just put the bottom fairing on to see clearance. But havent torqued down pipes yet.
What did i do wrong? Also, i cant seem to tell if the headers are flush to the manifolds, or will it sort itself as i torque them down?
I wouldn't worry too much until everything is torqued down. Sometimes just the smallest of adjustment can move the header pipes to a different position.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
GSXS 1000 Forum
107.2K posts
8.6K members
Since 2014
A forum community dedicated to Suzuki GSXS1000 superbike owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, racing, exhaust, suspension, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and other modifications!