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Re-Flash or PCv

15K views 58 replies 18 participants last post by  JeffroGymnast 
#1 ·
Question for you clever chaps... Am I right in thinking if having a Re-Flash you would not need a PCv ?
 
#2 ·
After going the throttle tamer, PCV, then TPS adjustment route. I'd suggest making sure the TPS is set correctly, then find a place the does a woolich or ftecu ECU tune, and have that done.

You might want to do any exhaust upgrades you planned prior to tuning, so you don't have to pay twice.
 
#9 ·
FYI flash tune cannot currently turn the fuel cut off but Woolich can


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#12 ·
If you have the option, you want the reflash. Obviously, if its a good one, but still...

The power commander only alters fuel needs. I know, they have a timing ad-on, but thats even more money.

The reflash allow the tuner much more freedom to make changes.

In the old days, simple fueling changes were enough to make a great running motorcycle. Thats not true, anymore.
 
#13 ·
Thats because the issue with the engine isn't throttle snatch!! What the **** is throttle snatch anyway? Bad fuelling is the issue - if it was genuinely throttle snatch you should be able to dial it out mechanically, but you cant, cos it aint throttle snatch!

Even Suzuki are tentatively admitting that the fuelling on the standard bike is bad...and it is - you only need ride it with a steady throttle at any road speed and the bike is jerking like Beyonce on an acid twerking trip.

I had a Rapid Bike fuelling unit fitted to help, but it didnt - it merely exacerbated the issue. This is because the original fuelling map is ****e. A 10 year old engine and 2016 emission regulations is going to mean you need a LOT of clever trickery to make the fuelling work and Suzuki clearly didn't put the hours in. All the Rapid Bike unit does is overlay a map over a technically flawed ECU map. That simply can't solve the problem of a flawed ECU. If the injectors were just a bit worn or something then yeah, the RB unit would be brilliant, but nothing can overcome a bad ECU - it's a critical design flaw. Only by changing the ECU could you fix the bike

The base fuel map is AWFUL hence the bad fuelling. I've seen people say their bikes pull cleanly and smoothly but that's got f*ck all to do with a fuelling map - if you open the throttle full (or even accelerate hardish) then all you're doing is opening the taps fully for a brief interval - big deal. You're not demanding anything of a fuelling map in that case, you're just asking for full fuel.

The PROBLEM is on STEADY throttle settings (e.g. town riding etc) - this's where the fuelling map crashes and burns - it can't handle it. Whatever combination of settings Suzuki programmed into the ECU doesn't work, so come on you lot who say your bikes are smooth as custard, don't lie just because you don't like to admit you bought a lemon...and the base GSXS1000 is a f*cking lemon, make no mistake.

When I had the Rapid Bike unit fitted, the garage noticed that the original bike ran very lean, to meet emissions presumably - the fuelling map was an utter mess - it's all over the place. Clearly Suzuki have been trying to meet emission regs but they're so stringent that they couldn't get it right.

The Rapid Bike unit just exacerbated the fuelling problem by the way - after fitting it, all the original fuelling issues were more or less in the same place on the map, just stronger! For instance, 3rd or 4th gear at a steady 40mph was an utter nightmare (worse than original) - the bike stuttered so badly it almost shook itself apart. I tried two or 3 bikes and they were all the same.

HOWEVER!! HELP IS ON THE WAY, READ ON.......

I had the new ECU fitted last week and Gor Blimey Guvnah! What a change!!!!!!! It's not all roses but it's a HUGE step in the right direction. Far smoother. It's a genuine fix to a genuine flaw. Reflashing the ECU may help but it's not as good as Suzuki simply developing a new improved ECU

It genuinely helps smooth the worst parts of the fuelling map. I have noticed my MPG has dipped a bit so they've clearly altered the fuelling to enrich it and un-lean it. It's not perfect - slight adjustments to steady throttle positions can cause jerkiness and in some gears at some speeds it can still be a bit jerky, but it's nothing like that hideous stuttering engine-gonna-blow-up feeling it used to have

My Rapid Bike unit is doing what it should do too. I had it mapped to improve fuel efficiency and..wait for it..wait for it...I get 62mpg at motorway speeds now! Up from the 45mpg quoted. I need to revisit the low speed mapping, which is where Suzuki have done work to rich up the mixture, but I don't wanna break anything.

I was on the verge of selling the bike, the fuelling was that bad. It's better now it's had it's ECU medicine.

My ECU was changed under warranty (July 16 bike) - go get the ECU changed before dicking about with reflashing ECUs or Power Commanders etc
 
#14 ·
Bonzodog. I don't understand why you are so anti reflashing the ECU.

Yes, Suzuki have a new ECU but they still have to stay within all the crazy new emission laws, by reflashing you can get the engine to run exactly how you want with or without any mods and without having to obey European 4 laws.

The result is a faster and smoother bike than you will ever get from a manufacturer nowdays
 
#15 · (Edited)
@Bonzodog999, the new (super-duper!!!) ECU from Suzuki it is in fact the old ECU that was re-flashed in the mean time. And now it has a brand new PN too. LOL!
Yes, we are speaking here about a genuine re-flash for this ECU, but it still remains a re-flash. And WTF cares it is a genuine re-flash, as long as it is not the perfect one?!
@PhuketPaul is right. A custom re-flash with the bike on a dyno is the best option we have to get the bike we have dreamed about when we bought it long time ago.
 
#16 ·
Yeah I contacted my dealer here in CA for the MT-00012 bulletin , they're looking into the ECU replacement. I now feel it's bit of a waste of time and will just get a woolich ecu flash and a dyno tune. It sucks I have to drop another 475-600 for the process, but at least it won't be killed by bad emission tuning. California being a small market I'd imagine suzuki did even less testing to tune the ECU correctly for the strict emissions laws.
 
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#17 ·
Bonzodog999 you've told us what we already know in your long story.... I've had the uprated Suzuki supplied ECU fitted, it cured the constant speed issue but not the Snatchy throttle, for want of a better description the on/off jerkiness when trying to negotiate roundabouts and bends smoothly when just on the throttle ... Yep all to do with fueling as the ecu has got fuel cut feature that can only be turned off by a re-flash or fine tuning the TPS .... Also in my case I fitted a PCv and had a custom map still snatchy throttle but more power.... So your wrong I'm afraid, the cure is a re-flash ...
 
#19 ·
Bit ironic, you say you're not concerned with steady, then you state you had a re-flash.

I'd prefer any motorcycle not to spit and stutter when I'm trying to maintain a constant throttle in 2nd/3rd. When I'm cruising behind a slow vehicle, the rpm's shouldn't be jumping all around, if my throttle hand is constant.
 
#23 ·
Cheers Jeffro... Also am I right in thinking if you remove a PCv you would revert back to your original stored map in the ecu, but if you re-flash you would lose it, also by re-flashing you could end up with a useless ecu if it all goes wrong...? :confused:
 
#31 · (Edited)
As Rob has already said before, the TPS adjustment doesn't help with the fuel cut off. Only Woolich's tool can help with this issue. But I'm not sure if it is sufficient to do only this modification (disable the cut off) in order to eliminate the snatch issue. In case the TPS doesn't help too much and you decide to take the very next step (re-flashing the ECU), INHO is better to ask for a proffesional to do this job.

LE:the line was in the same position (-C00) => it's not a very accurate way for the TPS position. That symbol is used to indicate the error codes, not for adjusting TPS. If you ask a proffesional to do this adjustment, he will use the multimeter for sure.
 
#41 ·
Since we are talking about disabling fuel cut, it still makes sense to say that tricking the ECM by always sending a small TPS value instead of 0% would work. Reason being that the ECM would never, ever cut fuel if it thinks the rider is asking for some torque. If it were the other way around (trying to enable fuel cut when the ECM doesn't want to), you are correct that other conditions are at play.[/QUOTE]


Jeffro are you saying altering the TPS to the 1.10v value position the fuel cut will not kick in so no need for a Woolich re-flash...? ..
 
#56 ·
Jeffro are you saying altering the TPS to the 1.10v value position the fuel cut will not kick in so no need for a Woolich re-flash...? ..
I'm saying that if you adjust it to above the normal position (something like 1.2V) you could trick the ECM into never cutting fuel. That said, it sounds like most people that adjusted it using the breakout harness to the proper voltage also had success in reducing the rough running.
 
#47 · (Edited)
I don't think the spluttering/surging between 2-3000 RPM is caused by Fuel cut.

I believe the fuel cut is only active above 3000 RPM - I will post a video later but when the throttle is closed above 3000 RPM the AFR shoots right up 19.5 (ie No Fuel)

Below 3000 RPM closing the throttle the AFR stays around 14 so still fueling. I now have decatted exhaust with no muffler, no SET valve and an M4 slip-on with no baffle, this causes the spluttering at 2-3000 RPM to be much worse (and noisier) but the fueling seems good so i no longer think this problem is caused by a fuel cut.

I've tried changing the ignition timing, didn't help too much.

Not sure what to try next, but an open exhaust does make it worse (although the mid range/top end is great)
 
#48 ·
I believe my fuel cut stops when de-accelerating at 2500 rpm on mine as you can feel it quite obvious as the engine breaking is instantly reduced at that point and I can feel it each time


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#58 ·
He can , he would just get better results


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