Help needed- SET valve questions - Suzuki GSXS1000 Forum
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post #1 of 7 Old 09-29-2019, 12:36 AM Thread Starter
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Help needed- SET valve questions

So I did something stupid...

I've been meaning to unhook the SET valve in my stock exhaust to experiment to see if that is the cause of the inconsistent sound/feeling of my bike. Today I was working on the bike and decided to unhook it to see if there was any change. There was, however I found that when I turned on the bike the SET motor pulled one of the cables into itself, and now it can't be pulled out.

I am assuming this is not the end of the world, as I have been wanting to do it anyway. A problem is that now I am looking for a servo eliminator, and there seems to be only 1 in the world for sale, that won't get here for 2+ weeks and is expensive shipping from Europe:/

I have a couple questions for you all:

I know if I ride the bike with the cables unhooked it will likely throw a CEL. *Is it safe to ride this way for a couple weeks, or is there concern it could go into Limp mode, as some have suggested?

Second, does anyone know if the hookups are similar across certain Suzuki models? Like does the gsxs750 use the same Servo Eliminator as the 1k?

Does anyone happen to have a Servo Eliminator lying around?

Thanks for the info.
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post #2 of 7 Old 09-29-2019, 02:59 AM
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Originally Posted by trasher View Post
So I did something stupid...

I've been meaning to unhook the SET valve in my stock exhaust to experiment to see if that is the cause of the inconsistent sound/feeling of my bike. Today I was working on the bike and decided to unhook it to see if there was any change. There was, however I found that when I turned on the bike the SET motor pulled one of the cables into itself, and now it can't be pulled out.

I am assuming this is not the end of the world, as I have been wanting to do it anyway. A problem is that now I am looking for a servo eliminator, and there seems to be only 1 in the world for sale, that won't get here for 2+ weeks and is expensive shipping from Europe:/

I have a couple questions for you all:

I know if I ride the bike with the cables unhooked it will likely throw a CEL. *Is it safe to ride this way for a couple weeks, or is there concern it could go into Limp mode, as some have suggested?

Second, does anyone know if the hookups are similar across certain Suzuki models? Like does the gsxs750 use the same Servo Eliminator as the 1k?

Does anyone happen to have a Servo Eliminator lying around?

Thanks for the info.
You can ride it indefinitely without the set valve functioning, no limp mode. I found it annoying to have the FI flashing though.
I believe the 2015/16 models work with the servo eliminator.
The 2017 and up require a flash to remove the FI fault code.
Just a tip, take the nut and washer off of the valve and put an extra wind on the spring and replace the washer and nut.
The extra tension will help to make sure that it stays open for good. Well, it can't hurt.

When life throws you curves, lean into them.

Last edited by Cainus83; 09-29-2019 at 05:36 AM.
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post #3 of 7 Old 09-29-2019, 08:34 AM
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A piece of black tape over the flashing light works if it gets on your nerves.
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2018 Suzuki GSX-S1000

Blue rim tape / Fender eliminator / Pazzo levers / MRA Race Windscreen

2019 Triumph Speed Twin (for sale soon ...)
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post #4 of 7 Old 09-29-2019, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Cainus83 View Post



You can ride it indefinitely without the set valve functioning, no limp mode. I found it annoying to have the FI flashing though.
I believe the 2015/16 models work with the servo eliminator.
The 2017 and up require a flash to remove the FI fault code.
Just a tip, take the nut and washer off of the valve and put an extra wind on the spring and replace the washer and nut.
The extra tension will help to make sure that it stays open for good. Well, it can't hurt.
Thank you both for the suggestions, and good to know it won't be an issue to ride for the time being. There's a lot of misinformation on this topic.

I plan to safety wire it open to make sure it doesn't move.
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post #5 of 7 Old 09-29-2019, 08:45 PM
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Hi Trasher,
Have you tried winding the motor's cable spool in reverse ?
On my then 2015 VFR1200F, it had a similar set up but operated a flap in the exhaust can. When I disconnected the cables, and powered up the spool rotated into abnormal place. The action needed to get the cables back into the right place was grasping the spool and twist.
It felt like I was pushing against a gear set (like in a clock). After I got it all re assembled, at the next power on, the ECU made the motor turn forwards and backwards and it parked itself in the mid position as that was the correct place as I had marked it first up.
The ECU light will go out if you leave the motor connected to the loom (with out the cables in place).

Rob.
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post #6 of 7 Old 09-30-2019, 12:10 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Slower, il give that a try. The SET motor is in such an annoying spot tucked behind the shock, so I will haveto pull it all out to see if it can be unwound. I believe il haveto crack the case to get to the spool. May not be worth it in the end.

Il see tomorrow how it goes riding it with the cables just unplugged. I wonder if the ecu will notice they are not properly connected or not.
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post #7 of 7 Old 09-30-2019, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so I have some updates. Today I safety wired the SET valve open and left the SET motor all connected to the bike, but detached from the SET valve. I went for a ride and found the sound is quite a bit better, and there were no noticeable issues with low end stability. There is a CEL on and flashing FI on the dash. The SET valve eliminator will take a couple weeks to get here, but sounds like it's not an issue to ride until then.
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