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K-tech Razor R -- totally worth it

11K views 25 replies 18 participants last post by  My Name Is Jeff 
#1 · (Edited)
The stock rear shock was killing me. I'm only about 160 pounds with gear on and I was getting bucked around brutally to the point where the bike was difficult to ride and I couldn't really get the front end to behave.

I put on the Razor R, set up the preload to 32mm front and rear, adjusted the rebound and compression front and rear and holy sheet.... The bike is glued to the pavement.

I did some quick test runs this afternoon and did some high speed sweepers between 80 and 100 mph and it was effortless in comparison to the old shock. I still may get the suspension tuned professionally but it is light years better than it was.

One other thing I noticed is that the snatchiness of the throttle seems to be better with the suspension working. I have previously done the TPS adjustment which helped a lot but now rolling on and off is just smoother especially trail braking/apex....

The installation was a pain in the ass. I did it with the wheel on per the video but I ended up having to completely disconnect the swingarm linkage and use a jack multiple times and places to get the shock in and out. Took about 2.5 hours but worth it.

I don't have passenger pegs so I improvised and just used two big oversized nuts as spacers and the install is clean.

If you're on the fence, get you one.
 

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#3 ·
The stock rear shock was killing me. I'm only about 160 pounds with gear on and I was getting bucked around brutally to the point where the bike was difficult to ride and I couldn't really get the front end to behave.

I put on the Razor R, set up the preload to 32mm front and rear, adjusted the rebound and compression front and rear and holy sheet.... The bike is glued to the pavement.

I did some quick test runs this afternoon and did some high speed sweepers between 80 and 100 mph and it was effortless in comparison to the old shock. I still may get the suspension tuned professionally but it is light years better than it was.

One other thing I noticed is that the snatchiness of the throttle seems to be better with the suspension working. I have previously done the TPS adjustment which helped a lot but now rolling on and off is just smoother especially trail braking/apex....

The installation was a pain in the ass. I did it with the wheel on per the video but I ended up having to completely disconnect the swingarm linkage and use a jack multiple times and places to get the shock in and out. Took about 2.5 hours but worth it.

I don't have passenger pegs so I improvised and just used two big oversized nuts as spacers and the install is clean.

If you're on the fence, get you one.
I love mine! ;)
 
#5 ·
I installed a Razor R on my 2016 a few months ago and my only regret is that I didn’t do it sooner. Much more comfortable for the longer rides that I tend to take.

It was a bit of a pain but I did not have to disconnect the swing arm. I used an ABBA stand and a floor jack. Worst part was having to ask the wife for help (to push the connecting bolts through). But that’s my cross to bear.
 
#6 ·
I used an automotive scissor jack between the rear tire and tail tidy, stacked a couple of flash card decks and a book in between as I had no wood, and bungeed the rear brake while having it on a rear stand. For safety, I should have strapped the tail hanging from a ladder but luckily it was pretty solid and I didn't lose an arm.

An ABBA stand would be nice and I'm tempted to sell my bulky motorcycle lift for a Skylift. It just seems a little sketchy to have so much weight on a couple of small pins and would it damage the swingarm pivot? I'm guessing a steel rod through the pivot and placing it on jack stands would bend the rod.

Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk
 
#7 ·
An ABBA stand would be nice and I'm tempted to sell my bulky motorcycle lift for a Skylift. It just seems a little sketchy to have so much weight on a couple of small pins and would it damage the swingarm pivot? I'm guessing a steel rod through the pivot and placing it on jack stands would bend the rod.
You're overthinking it. Every time a rider does a wheelie he's standing the full weight of the bike (along with the added component of hard acceleration) on the rear wheel and swingarm but it doesn't bend the axle or the swingarm pivot tube.
 
#8 ·
Hey MotoRiderGA, it sounds like you've discovered what many of us have - that rear shock is a complete piece of schizen. Once it's replaced with a quality K-Tech, Wilbers, or Nitron, riding the bike becomes so much more enjoyable. A bike that holds the road and handles properly is a faster, safer bike, but more than that, you just want to ride it more often. Worth the money. Thanks for sharing your post. I keep preaching but sometimes I think only the choir is hearing me. Maybe your post will get a few more congregants to upgrade that rear shock and 'see the light'. (And if I could afford to redo the front end, I would, but once you get the back end sorted, the front seems livable, 'as is'.)
 
#11 ·
Knowing what I know now, probably 10 minutes after a 6 pack of red bulls. It's basically undoing 5 bolts. Wilbers 641 required additional 4 screws to remove right tail fairing to route remote reservoir. Realistically, as a newcomer, less than an hour.

Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk
 
#15 ·
The stock rear shock was killing me. I'm only about 160 pounds with gear on and I was getting bucked around brutally to the point where the bike was difficult to ride and I couldn't really get the front end to behave.

I put on the Razor R, set up the preload to 32mm front and rear, adjusted the rebound and compression front and rear and holy sheet.... The bike is glued to the pavement.

I did some quick test runs this afternoon and did some high speed sweepers between 80 and 100 mph and it was effortless in comparison to the old shock. I still may get the suspension tuned professionally but it is light years better than it was.

One other thing I noticed is that the snatchiness of the throttle seems to be better with the suspension working. I have previously done the TPS adjustment which helped a lot but now rolling on and off is just smoother especially trail braking/apex....

The installation was a pain in the ass. I did it with the wheel on per the video but I ended up having to completely disconnect the swingarm linkage and use a jack multiple times and places to get the shock in and out. Took about 2.5 hours but worth it.

I don't have passenger pegs so I improvised and just used two big oversized nuts as spacers and the install is clean.

If you're on the fence, get you one.
I just put a Wilbers on mine, definitely helps, I am about 230lbs with gear. Have you done the WOT reset? That made the biggest improvement in throttle response for me.

JT
 
#18 ·
The stock rear shock was killing me. I'm only about 160 pounds with gear on and I was getting bucked around brutally to the point where the bike was difficult to ride and I couldn't really get the front end to behave.

I put on the Razor R, set up the preload to 32mm front and rear, adjusted the rebound and compression front and rear and holy sheet.... The bike is glued to the pavement.

I did some quick test runs this afternoon and did some high speed sweepers between 80 and 100 mph and it was effortless in comparison to the old shock. I still may get the suspension tuned professionally but it is light years better than it was.

One other thing I noticed is that the snatchiness of the throttle seems to be better with the suspension working. I have previously done the TPS adjustment which helped a lot but now rolling on and off is just smoother especially trail braking/apex....

The installation was a pain in the ass. I did it with the wheel on per the video but I ended up having to completely disconnect the swingarm linkage and use a jack multiple times and places to get the shock in and out. Took about 2.5 hours but worth it.

I don't have passenger pegs so I improvised and just used two big oversized nuts as spacers and the install is clean.

If you're on the fence, get you one.
Looks nice though, what weight did you specify when ordering it? I may get one for my bike. I weight 147 lbs but adding gear and a backpack (with my Canon Camera, small tripod & lenses, binoculars, water bottle and some fruit) perhaps 160 lbs.
 
#21 ·
If I buy one of these bikes, I'm gonna want to know if any of ya'll are near Raleigh NC and know the quick rear shock swap method!
 
#22 ·
replacing the rear shock has been the best performance change on my 2016. I went with a Race Tech unit and had a shop do the work. I have a busted up spine and neck issue and I'm thus really sensitive to asphalt changes. 5' 8" @ 190lb's- The factory rear unit would try to throw me up over the windscreen and any touring ride (I live near the Sonoma California coast). I've got the front forks adjusted to one click shy of the top of the rebound scale so will need to explore a new set of valves and proper oil weight.
Switching out the tires to Pirelli Corsa 2's also helped with the ride quality. much better grip, and longevity over the factory rubbers. Nitro-
 
#23 ·
replacing the rear shock has been the best performance change on my 2016. I went with a Race Tech unit and had a shop do the work. I have a busted up spine and neck issue and I'm thus really sensitive to asphalt changes. 5' 8" @ 190lb's- The factory rear unit would try to throw me up over the windscreen and any touring ride (I live near the Sonoma California coast). I've got the front forks adjusted to one click shy of the top of the rebound scale so will need to explore a new set of valves and proper oil weight.
Switching out the tires to Pirelli Corsa 2's also helped with the ride quality. much better grip, and longevity over the factory rubbers. Nitro-
Nice
can't state it enough

rear shock
tyres
brake pads

waaayyy better ride
 
#24 ·
Install my new K-tech shock today, the fork where totally rebuilt with K-tech valve last winter. Install was easy with the Abba stand. It's not cheap doing fork and rear shock but now the bike is ridding as it should ride. The suspension absorb the bumps with total contol, no more bouncing around. For now sag is at 35 mm front and rear, compression and rebond are set as K-tech suggest.
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#25 ·
Install my new K-tech shock today, the fork where totally rebuilt with K-tech valve last winter. Install was easy with the Abba stand. It's not cheap doing fork and rear shock but now the bike is ridding as it should ride. The suspension absorb the bumps with total contol, no more bouncing around. For now sag is at 35 mm front and rear, compression and rebond are set as K-tech suggest.
Install my new K-tech shock today, the fork where totally rebuilt with K-tech valve last winter. Install was easy with the Abba stand. It's not cheap doing fork and rear shock but now the bike is ridding as it should ride. The suspension absorb the bumps with total contol, no more bouncing around. For now sag is at 35 mm front and rear, compression and rebond are set as K-tech suggest. View attachment 45373 View attachment 45374 View attachment 45375 View attachment 45376 View attachment 45377 View attachment 45378
View attachment 45373 View attachment 45374 View attachment 45375 View attachment 45376 View attachment 45377 View attachment 45378
 
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