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Pulling the forks up, how much?

6K views 20 replies 12 participants last post by  OldBobagain 
#1 · (Edited)
Can someone give me a good length to pull the forks up
in the triple clamps on THIS bike? I don't need to ride around at high speed
with my hands off the bars, so a bit of instability is fine. But I also don't want
to be making creases in the fender or radiator under strong braking.

Thank you.
 
#5 ·
I pulled mine up 5mm at the start of summer.
I found it helps to put a little more weight on the front. I had gone back to a 50 rear tire but that wasn't the reason I did it.
I've also got Hyperpro suspension front and rear and I was lacking a little feeling in the front. It tracks better in the bends now and has slightly quicker turn in, which is more to my liking.
Don't pull up too much to start with. The down side is on the emergency braking. If you go too far it feels like the rear wants to lift and the front springs can feel a little over powered and start to bounce.
 
#6 ·
Mine are up 2mm and I run a 55 rear profile. It is a nice enough compromise. A little movement sliding them up top goes a long way in changing the handling of the bike. 5mm is about as far as I'd go if I were going extreme changes with it. Will be one nervous twitchy beast up front with that amount of change. With no stock steering damper on these things I would tread lightly raising the forks a great amount. Having stated the disclaimer no way should you go anymore than 25mm or your front fender will find the underneath of your lower triple clamp.
 
#7 ·
Thanks all. I switched to a 180/55 but it doesn't feel any different.

I don't like the feel of the front end in tight corners on this bike,
so I know I do want to slide the tubes up.

I want to feel a definite change. If 5 has worked fine & 10 is safe on most,
I will try up the middle, play it safe.

Don't want a lock to lock episode after a sloppy wheelie, the only kind I can do.
Ha, ha.

I always get nervous actually doing the raising when there is not a centerstand
and I'm thinking my Abba stand will not make the procedure easier unless I go
ahead and try to put a jack under the sump, another thing to make me nervous.
Only want to do the procedure once.

Again, thanks to all for weighing in.
 
#14 ·
yes stock suspension is where suzuki saved $$$, ive installed nitron r2 rear, i tried stiffer f/springs first, but they were too hard, ive since installed k-teck fork vale kit + comp adjusters, and one stock/1 stiffer f/spring, i like my suspension compliant enough to ride fast on rough backroads, but not wallowing either, i cant complain with the present setup, it probably be too soft for hard braking track use, but ive never ridden anywhere but street, as a cheap fork fix, replace stock fluid with 5 weight synthetic @ 100mm level, that greatly enhances fork small bump performance, rear shock has too much comp damping in setup to work even with a softer spring. oh and i have my forks set 2mm protruding and it flicks efortlessly from one side too the other, dont see how anyone would want faster steering personally , but the stock brakes need good pads to work properly, std ones are like trying to stop with rocks for friction
 
#16 ·
If I'm reading this correctly, OP put a 180/55 tire on. That would not help. The bike would need the 190/55 tire to improve front end feel. The 55 series will raise the back end, achieving the same effect as a slight raising of the fork tubes in the triple clamps. But the 55 is a % of the width of the tire (180mm or 190mm), so a 180/55 won't achieve the same effect as the 190/55. (Stock tire is 190/50...which is a lower profile and doesn't want to turn in as well, but it LOOKS good, which is why I think Suzuki went with it. But for HANDLING, the 55 profile is taller and more 'rounded'. That's why most go with the 190/55 when it is time to replace; this gives better turn in without having the mess with the forks/triple clamps.)


But assuming one still feels compelled to raise the fork tubes, 5mm is the place to start. That's actually quite a bit. But it will either feel GOOD or it will feel like 'too much' and can then be backed off to 2mm or 3mm instead. NOTE: For those who have replaced shocks and springs, you've left the land of 'stock' and new rules apply. Not talking about you guys and gals here ;)
 
#18 ·
180 rear's purpose is to reduce the heavy, drag-bike feeling one gets from having too much rear tire. For example, the BKing came with a 200, many were happier with a 190. My purpose with the 180 was not to raise rear end height. My 55 aspect ratio was to soften bumps. I am happy with the swap.

After measuring front end sag (27 mm with adjustment backed out past the 5 lines), I gave up & decided to get the AK20 cartridges and recommended springs from Traxxion. To that end, I ordered the Abba stand accessory to effortlessly raise and lower the front end. When it arrives, I can not only remove the forks for the cartridge/spring swap, but also easily play around with the fork tube height above the clamps.

I probably should have browsed this forum before I bought my bike. These extra bits--Wilburs, AK20s/springs, Abba stand, Ventura rack--probably over $3K. But after purchase, in for a penny, in for a pound. I hope I will be happy.
 
#19 ·
Hey @verbatim, it sounds like you know what you are doing and have thought through your choices. That's awesome. We each have to figure out what path works for us. Getting the full suspension done would really transform the GSX-S, so I can see why you went that route. I just wish suspension stuff wasn't so expensive. It would be nice if Suzuki offered the Gixxus in two versions - one with the 'basic' suspension for cheap and then one with Ohlins stuff on there for $1500 more. It'd be worth it for a lot of us to get the more high end model. Once you have a bike that handles right, it is so hard to ride 'c r a p' suspension again. As you said, hopefully you are happy now that you've tweaked the bike to your liking. Now it's just a matter of riding it and enjoying your much improved machine.
 
#20 ·
Reading though the Thread make me reflect on MotoGP Teams setup in the days before the race.
Heaps of data from previous times there, but still they go through trialing different tyres, suspensions, gearing ratio's et al.
Each track they say is different, but they as for me the Viewer on TV all look much the same.

Your just getting a lucky dip that you will get a compromise set up outcome that is 100% safe for sane people riding in a sane road environment and keep the Company safe legally.
It may not work from stock for some who want to ride outside of this safe as possible bubble, that's the trouble with compromises when your input parameters are assumed by and chosen by others.

IF I wanted a Racer, I would have bought a Ducati or Aprilla product first up and saved this upgrade by trial and error at home.
Thanks Suzuki, you did enough for me with the stock GSX-S1000.

Rob.
 
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