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Yeah, I can understand why he's normally behind the lens. Interesting to see how an expert gauges the 'right' settings. I was curious to see how he measured sag, without the rider on how can he be sure it's right for anyone's given weight? For my personal preferences I went slower/harder on rebound but faster/softer on the compression. Local roads are not overly smooth so the ability to soak up bumps is a priority. On a track my settings would be way too soft.
 

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Jaked, thats what you would do, and its about all you could do, if you were setting that bike up for any and all riders.

You could set preload more specific if you knew the weight of the rider. Being he was setting this up for a group, its a good baseline.

I also recommend really using your adjusters. Instead of one click, give it five to prove your on the right track..Its way too easy to give it one click today..one tomorrow..one next week..one next month...and drift away from what you were trying to accomplish in the first place. Dont worry. On a stock system, you are not allowed enough adjustment range to do much.

Like sighting in a gun. You wont notice one click. You will notice five. Then determine better/worse.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So I've had my first play with these settings.
Frontend
The journo is a bit skinnier than me but the sag was good with a nice neutral feel when turning left to right so I've left it at three rings and 1 mm showing. (Same as my original factory setting funnily enough)
First impressions were good. A lot firmer and the bike tracked really well. Very precise when going into a bend. No pushing back or running wide coming out.
As soon as the roads were a little bumpy it was too harsh though.
Compression was too firm. It would be great for a smooth roads and tearing about or a track day. I've change the compression to 6 clicks out from fully in.
Rebound was good. I've left it at 5 clicks out. Now I'll ride it for a bit and see what I think.
Rear.
Much harder and your backside stays in the seat.
Originally I was just under one full turn out and was occasionally getting kicked out the seat on bigger bumps. The 1/2 turn out works really well when driving aggressively, no squatting coming out of corners but makes the ride a little harsh if you are just out for a bimble or cruising to work. I'm going to try somewhere in between the two and see what I find.
Having only a preload collar and one setting to change does make the rear very easy to set up but it does show its limitations rather quickly.

From what I've gathered today. I would say moving any adjustment 5 clicks to see what the effect is, is too much. Just go two at a time and you should be able to tell.
 

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setting 2 is too soft for british road use as forks dive too much when hitting potholes. H ave been meesing with settings for the six months I have had the bike and considering the condition of our roads have found 3.5 to afford a stable ride. I weigh 94kg
 

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So tell me about clicks. If I turn my adjusters in to full stiff they either land on a click or go an 1/8th turn past never hitting another click. Is the full stiff landed on click zero or one? If I am an 1/8th turn past a click at full stiff, when going back towards soft, is the first click one or zero. I went with zero resulting in 8 clicks past the first detent/click. Opinions?
 

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The settings in the video are almost identical to what was posted in the article at 2016 Suzuki GSX-S1000 ABS: First Thoughts On Our Test Bike « MotorcycleDaily.com ? Motorcycle News, Editorials, Product Reviews and Bike Reviews

It seems like those in the know are somewhere around the same place. The article also suggests 3/4 turn on the rear rebound, as Beaker had mentioned in an earlier post.

I'm finally picking my bike up this afternoon, and will be applying these settings as soon as I get it home, and then tweak from there as necessary. I'm about 5 Kg lighter than the author of the article and don't do track days, so I may back preload off a little.
 

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When my F was delivered, the dealer softened up all settings, as I am lightweight. it was horrible on bumpy roads

After much trial and error- biggest thing was it needed more rebound damping not less.
Front preload softest 5 lines showing
Front now 5 clicks out rebound and its like a different bike for my ~70 kg-
Front compression 9 clicks out ( I might tweak this a bit still but think it is close and not that far from stock setting )
Sag with rider 31 mm

Rear Preload 2nd softest
Compression/ rebound 3/4 out ( so again more damping)- With my preload the rear initially felt too soft - now fine
Sag with rider 28 mm
 

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So tell me about clicks. If I turn my adjusters in to full stiff they either land on a click or go an 1/8th turn past never hitting another click. Is the full stiff landed on click zero or one? If I am an 1/8th turn past a click at full stiff, when going back towards soft, is the first click one or zero. I went with zero resulting in 8 clicks past the first detent/click. Opinions?
Good question.:)
I look at the distance radially between full clicks then guesstimate the distance from last click to full lock down. If I think it's more than 1/2 a click I count the 1st click out as 1, if it seems less I count it as 0.:nerd:
Don't see what else you can do.
 

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Good question.:)
I look at the distance radially between full clicks then guesstimate the distance from last click to full lock down. If I think it's more than 1/2 a click I count the 1st click out as 1, if it seems less I count it as 0.:nerd:
Don't see what else you can do.
I disagree. A click is a click, no matter when it happens. The fact that the 1st click happens just after the screw is raised from the bottomed-out position is irrelevant, it's still the 1st click.
 

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I disagree. A click is a click, no matter when it happens. The fact that the 1st click happens just after the screw is raised from the bottomed-out position is irrelevant, it's still the 1st click.
OK. How about when full stiff lands on a click? Better yet why the heck did'nt Suzuki make this more clear? Seems sloppy to me.
 

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"Count the clicks" is pretty clear IMO. "Count the clicks, but only if the first click happens after 1/2 a turn and don't count the last click if the screw stops when it happens" is much less so.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Thanks Titters, I was pretty sure that was what you meant but was just checking.
I should have added to my post that I'm weighing in at about 90Kgs too

So tell me about clicks. If I turn my adjusters in to full stiff they either land on a click or go an 1/8th turn past never hitting another click. Is the full stiff landed on click zero or one? If I am an 1/8th turn past a click at full stiff, when going back towards soft, is the first click one or zero. I went with zero resulting in 8 clicks past the first detent/click. Opinions?
I've had another little play today after trying those settings in the commuter traffic. To be honest, I did find them a little hard and on wet slippy roads I feel you might need a slightly softer ride ( and its a little colder now so the oil is a little stiffer)

Gixxus, good question. If you turn your adjusters in and it moves 1/8 turn past a click before it comes to a stop( and don't crank it in tight, just finger and thumb firm) turn the adjuster back out until it sits in the first click. This is click zero. Then, when you start turning them out the next click is one and so on.
That's how I counted mine but I can see other folk might do it differently and call my zero point one.
It doesn't matter what method you use as long as you stick to the same method every time, that way you won't confuse yourself if you loose your place and want to start again. I also always write down my base setting which I'm most happy with so if I have a twiddling fit when I'm out on the road and lose count I can always start from the beginning again.

Had another little play today after doing a lot more town riding in the wet and the cold. I wanted to make the bike a bit more compliant to help absorb the bumps and improve grip.

Front.
Preload is the same- 3 rings and 1mm showing
Rebound has stayed the same at 5 clicks out
Compression- 6 clicks out

Rear.
Preload still on the factory 3rd click on the collar
Rebound - now 5/8 out from full in

This works for me in the colder wetter conditions and is still firm enough to not have the bike pushing wide coming out of corners. I'll leave it like this for a bit and see how the weather affects it as winter sets in.
 

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Good question.:)
I look at the distance radially between full clicks then guesstimate the distance from last click to full lock down. If I think it's more than 1/2 a click I count the 1st click out as 1, if it seems less I count it as 0.:nerd:
Don't see what else you can do.
Q: Is the full stiff landed on click zero or one?
A: Zero. It is the first click from "full in" that has some resistance to turning, so it is numeral 0.

I find it very useful on getting a new bike to use a permanent marker line like a centre punch pop marks on both forks and rebound screw position on the shock as left by the manufacturer before any adjustments so I can be confident that I have the OEM setting to go back to as it gets lost in the memory bank when you realize it is not working out.
The forks are adjusted set via a shock jig, not by counting clicks and turns, so unskilled factory workers off site somewhere can quickly set OEM settings with allowance for spring weight & oil variations.
Forks: It nice to put the first pop mark @ 90 degree to the screw slot, then next pop into the pre load adjuster, and lastly a pop mark into the triple clamp. The marks to line up in a straight line.
Rebound: The rebound screw, I look for existing OEM pop marks as Suzi do this, but Honda sometimes do not mark. The rebound screw can be easily turned, so first draw a felt pen or scribe a line across where the 2 pop marks are to go as the rebound screw can easily turn when popped by the centre punch hammer as the angle needed is made hard by the stock screw location. An automatic centre punch is better to use than a punch and hammer.
When you move the spring preload, the original alignment of the clicker marks goes out if you count them again from zero. It gets a lot when the pre load is turned in a fair way and it can throw you out wondering where you are. It can look a full click out.
e.g. Like 2 full tours of preload in, the mark on the rebound pop mark won't line up with the same number of clicks as before. They only line up when preload and rebound are returned to the OEM positions as per the pop marks.

Rob.
 

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The settings in the video are almost identical to what was posted in the article at 2016 Suzuki GSX-S1000 ABS: First Thoughts On Our Test Bike « MotorcycleDaily.com ? Motorcycle News, Editorials, Product Reviews and Bike Reviews

It seems like those in the know are somewhere around the same place. The article also suggests 3/4 turn on the rear rebound, as Beaker had mentioned in an earlier post.

I'm finally picking my bike up this afternoon, and will be applying these settings as soon as I get it home, and then tweak from there as necessary. I'm about 5 Kg lighter than the author of the article and don't do track days, so I may back preload off a little.
thanx a lot for that link:)
i put thoose settings on my s today,
feel so planted and firm no bouncing in the back when ride hard through corners
only a 5min job very easy
im abouth 92kg with riding gear
 

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thanx a lot for that link:)
i put thoose settings on my s today,
feel so planted and firm no bouncing in the back when ride hard through corners
only a 5min job very easy
im abouth 92kg with riding gear
I notice on those settings the journo has put 5 clicks of Comp on the Left leg and 6 clicks of Comp on the Right leg.... Seems a bit odd !!!....:confused:
 
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