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I have just tried to buy the kawasaki lead (Newcastle, UK) and the main dealership for Kawasaki say this is no longer available - it was cheap tho at £12. Suzuki do still make a test lead ref 09900 28631 and that is more expensive at £49 - even the suzuki dealer thought that was expensive for a one off use! Lucky for me the dealership that sold me the bike have agreed to do this for me as part of the first service which will need to be done quite soon. I will give feed back once the tps is adjusted However I also plan to get the ecu flashed with woolich software soon after.
 

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Has anyone already did a TPS adjustment on a 2018 gsx-s?

Like almost everyone I have the snatchy throttle problem and tried to do a TPS adjustment but, when in service mode, I cannot see the dash near the C00.

Any ideias?
The best way to cure the snatchy throttle is to ride in the correct gear and be smooth. Problem solved. I have been riding in the mountians with a group of riders and have never messed with mine and all they can say is how smooth I look.
 
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The best way to cure the snatchy throttle is to ride in the correct gear and be smooth. Problem solved. I have been riding in the mountians with a group of riders and have never messed with mine and all they can say is how smooth I look.
The only problem with that is you are one of the people who got a bike without the snatch issue.

People who drive smooth in the right gear are still getting bucks, or stalls at low speed, when they roll back and get back on the throttle. Think of the bike more or less going "ok throttle is fully closed" when you're still actually at 10%. Then when you rotate it to 11% the bike goes "oh **** now it's Suddenly 11%!" It's going to give you a buck, no matter what you try.
 

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Even in 6th gear at low speed it is Snatchy if you don't set the TPS . Like I said before I set my TPS to 1.13v and it tamed it quite a bit . It is still a little bit but jumpy but not as bad as when I got the bike ( 2019 model ) . Next move for me is power commander .
 

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The only problem with that is you are one of the people who got a bike without the snatch issue.

People who drive smooth in the right gear are still getting bucks, or stalls at low speed, when they roll back and get back on the throttle. Think of the bike more or less going "ok throttle is fully closed" when you're still actually at 10%. Then when you rotate it to 11% the bike goes "oh **** now it's Suddenly 11%!" It's going to give you a buck, no matter what you try.
Feel free to come ride my bucking bronco. I think I know what snatchy throttle is like. The problem is transitioning from off to on throttle. So running lower gears and using engine braking ect you are NEVER closed throttle unless you are scared. I assure you my 2016 has the snatchy throttle issue I have just learned to ride around it.
 

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Feel free to come ride my bucking bronco. I think I know what snatchy throttle is like. The problem is transitioning from off to on throttle. So running lower gears and using engine braking ect you are NEVER closed throttle unless you are scared. I assure you my 2016 has the snatchy throttle issue I have just learned to ride around it.
Half the issue with the throttle snatch is the bike thinks the throttle is closed, when its really not. If you're working around that, congrats, I don't have the patience, nor the temperament to get used to operating any vehicle in a manner as such... Engine braking is closed throttle, or else you wouldn't be engine braking?
 

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Woolich flash (or any flash for that matter) that disables the fuel cut. I also removed the O2 sensor so the engine isn't trying to run on air. I had an issue at 3.5k revs where the engine ran like crap. Not any more.
 

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The only problem with that is you are one of the people who got a bike without the snatch issue.

People who drive smooth in the right gear are still getting bucks, or stalls at low speed, when they roll back and get back on the throttle. Think of the bike more or less going "ok throttle is fully closed" when you're still actually at 10%. Then when you rotate it to 11% the bike goes "oh **** now it's Suddenly 11%!" It's going to give you a buck, no matter what you try.

What you described is the reason for the TPS to be made spot on as a 'non negotiable'.
The ECU and the throttle grip at closed must be synchronised, and that's the TPS setting procedure.


Then if you want perfection, do the reflashing dance with the sole aim to get the 'fuel deceleration cut off' switched off.

The rest of the fuel mixture stuff in the flashing is really unnecessary for relief of the jerkiness, but seeing it is then available for nix $ after the very necessary important fuel de-cel unticking, go for it especially if you have altered the headers, cat, ex servo valve, exhaust can.


Rob.
 

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Remember altering the TPS setting is only half the job you must then reset the "Throttle fully closed learned position" using the OBD tool. This is explained clearly in the workshop manual.
Just saying as it doesn't always get mentioned.
 

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Hi, do you know if there are any pics anywhere of the connections when using the Kawasaki sensor? I have seen some info somewhere on here but there are so many threads on jerky/snatchy throttle and TPS adjustment I just can't find it! Help needed if possible. Cheers.
 

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Remember altering the TPS setting is only half the job you must then reset the "Throttle fully closed learned position" using the OBD tool. This is explained clearly in the workshop manual.
Just saying as it doesn't always get mentioned.
interesting. where do I find more information on this ? you mean the owners manual that we received with the bike from factory, or a dealer workshop manual?

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 

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The only problem with that is you are one of the people who got a bike without the snatch issue.

People who drive smooth in the right gear are still getting bucks, or stalls at low speed, when they roll back and get back on the throttle. Think of the bike more or less going "ok throttle is fully closed" when you're still actually at 10%. Then when you rotate it to 11% the bike goes "oh **** now it's Suddenly 11%!" It's going to give you a buck, no matter what you try.
Feel free to come ride my bucking bronco. I think I know what snatchy throttle is like. The problem is transitioning from off to on throttle. So running lower gears and using engine braking ect you are NEVER closed throttle unless you are scared. I assure you my 2016 has the snatchy throttle issue I have just learned to ride around it.
You'll convince nobody, don't bother.
 

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interesting. where do I find more information on this ? you mean the owners manual that we received with the bike from factory, or a dealer workshop manual?

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Q1: The Suzuki Workshop Manual. I guess you don't have the aftermarket software package or the now obsolete Suzuki Service Diagnostic Tool ?
Q2. Don't worry, the learned value will relearn the new setting after a bit of time. How long is that? Don't know, but I reset my TPS and did nothing then and there about learned value and the bike ran fine.
The Dealer reset it at the first service several 100's of kilometres later and it felt the same.

Rob.
 

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interesting. where do I find more information on this ? you mean the owners manual that we received with the bike from factory, or a dealer workshop manual?

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Q1: The Suzuki Workshop Manual. I guess you don't have the aftermarket software package or the now obsolete Suzuki Service Diagnostic Tool ?
Q2. Don't worry, the learned value will relearn the new setting after a bit of time. How long is that? Don't know, but I reset my TPS and did nothing then and there about learned value and the bike ran fine.
The Dealer reset it at the first service several 100's of kilometres later and it felt the same.

Rob.
All I did was a battery disconnect, and the code went away by the time the TCS was set. (2 tire rotations, I think?)
 

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I think my throttle cable needs adjusting because when checking the voltage of the TPS is shows 4.30 volts. I cant seem to find this 1.13 value i should adjust to...

Now my TC is stuck to 1. and I have a FI fault code on my dash...

I will try again tomorrow.

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Just checked my new leftover 2016. Don't have the test lead so I used the diagnostic mode. I had the low dash instead of the middle dash next to the C. Took her apart and set by the dash to just where it transitioned down from top position. Short ride and definitely better down low. Will send how she does in s couple hundred more miles. Local dealer is a Suzuki drag shop and will do a custom tune for $475. Not the cheapest, but he is well known in the area for good work. Although not for initial setup apparently... Still the most fun bike I've ever owned!

JT
 
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