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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Every time i twist the throttle I get this clatter sound like "TUCK" from the gearbox or clutch i dont know..

I get this noise when i twist the throttle

and also when i release it as engine breaking occurs

The gear box is **** in this bike...

I get false ****ing neutrals everyhere and now.... **** my runin period gets ruined due to high revs when on false neutral...

I dont know whats going on .... its like i got to be so **** careful and concentrated when i am changing gears and twisting the throttle cuz of this clatter ... its kind of like chain slack hitting noise... but my chains are tight...

Any solutions on the issue..

Have any of you experienced this on ur bike
 

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Every review along with my own opinion believes this is one of the smoothest gearboxes to use, take it back and talk to your dealer , I have had bad gearboxes before on bikes and it takes all the enjoyment out of the ride wondering how each gear change is going to go
 

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Let's just lay this out on the table. If people think this is the smoothest gearbox then they have never rode a honda cbr600f, cbr600rr, cbr1000rr, gs500. I have not rode that many bikes but all of these are better imo, don't get me wrong I'm not slating it I really love the long gearing. I've rode 3 gsxs1000 and all were the same.

Now I think the reason you are getting a noise from it is the throttle issue, everytime mine used to 'snatch' it put a lot of strain on the gearbox and chain and I had the same noise, the abruptness of the throttle can be seen on YouTube on a few of the dyno videos. Since I've adjusted the tps mine hardly does it now, mine only does it when it snatches, which is why I think that is the reason.
False neutrals are not normal on this bike from my short experience of it, if you are not happy take it back.
Obviously check the chain tension as per the manual before you go to the dealer.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 

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Every time i twist the throttle I get this clatter sound like "TUCK" from the gearbox or clutch i dont know..

I get this noise when i twist the throttle

and also when i release it as engine breaking occurs

The gear box is **** in this bike...

I get false ****ing neutrals everyhere and now.... **** my runin period gets ruined due to high revs when on false neutral...

I dont know whats going on .... its like i got to be so **** careful and concentrated when i am changing gears and twisting the throttle cuz of this clatter ... its kind of like chain slack hitting noise... but my chains are tight...

Any solutions on the issue..

Have any of you experienced this on ur bike

I know you will be taking it back to a Workshop and hopefully you are still under warranty as it seems parts are stuffed.
You need to help the rest of us with some info. And we are assuming that your speaking about the GSXS1000, right ?

Like has it been very recently had a big service - what oil was put in the engine ?
Has the noise been there from new and been getting steadily worse ?
Do you do a lot of wheelies or continued high speed ?
Is the sound the same as putting into first gear from neutral ?
False neutrals could suggest bent fork selection fingers or worn dog teeth in the gear box.
Clutch basket noises get worse with a lot of wheelies, they can crack the basket or cause the bearing to wear.
The clutch plate springs can weaken and shift about when loaded and unloaded.
The worst possible case is that the crankshaft has damaged teeth at the gearbox end.
The list of gloom and doom goes on and on.

Rob.
 

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This bike may not be as smooth as a honda but it shifts pretty **** smooth overall.....the behavior described by the OP is in no way normal for this bike.....with that said....It doesn't sound like something easily fixed at home to me.....so, especially if it is still under warranty....the answer is simple.....to it to the shop.
 

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When I first picked my bike up it felt like the "cush drive rubbers" were made of metal. On and off throttle the drive was very harsh, it got better as the miles built up and after around 1000 miles I didn't notice it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Let's just lay this out on the table. If people think this is the smoothest gearbox then they have never rode a honda cbr600f, cbr600rr, cbr1000rr, gs500. I have not rode that many bikes but all of these are better imo, don't get me wrong I'm not slating it I really love the long gearing. I've rode 3 gsxs1000 and all were the same.

Now I think the reason you are getting a noise from it is the throttle issue, everytime mine used to 'snatch' it put a lot of strain on the gearbox and chain and I had the same noise, the abruptness of the throttle can be seen on YouTube on a few of the dyno videos. Since I've adjusted the tps mine hardly does it now, mine only does it when it snatches, which is why I think that is the reason.
False neutrals are not normal on this bike from my short experience of it, if you are not happy take it back.
Obviously check the chain tension as per the manual before you go to the dealer.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Hmmm yeah may be cuz of the snatchy throttle... ****

I do have the updated ecu ... but snatchy throttle still exists

The sad part is this **** thing causes so much stress on the grarbox...

Honestly i dont think this will last longer... if it goes this way the gearbox will rip apart
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I know you will be taking it back to a Workshop and hopefully you are still under warranty as it seems parts are stuffed.
You need to help the rest of us with some info. And we are assuming that your speaking about the GSXS1000, right ?

Like has it been very recently had a big service - what oil was put in the engine ?
Has the noise been there from new and been getting steadily worse ?
Do you do a lot of wheelies or continued high speed ?
Is the sound the same as putting into first gear from neutral ?
False neutrals could suggest bent fork selection fingers or worn dog teeth in the gear box.
Clutch basket noises get worse with a lot of wheelies, they can crack the basket or cause the bearing to wear.
The clutch plate springs can weaken and shift about when loaded and unloaded.
The worst possible case is that the crankshaft has damaged teeth at the gearbox end.
The list of gloom and doom goes on and on.

Rob.
I have a 2016 gsx s1000f blue with abs and since its the latest batch... it has the updated ecu also... but snatchy throttle still exists

Actualy this issues been there from the very start at 0 miles.... at 25kms i did my first oil change myself

I poured in MOTUL 300V factory line 10W 40
Didnt change the oilfilter though

Now i am approx 900kms... and this clatter still exists if i am not extremely careful with the throttle... right now i am controlling this by stressing my right wrist very hard to initial throttle very slowly... if i release it fast... i get the clatter...

**** my wrists pain...

I dont do wheelies but i hit 6 to 7k revs occassionaly... but the manual specifies not to exceed 5k... yes i am guilty... i dont know what damage it could cause..
Fingers crossed

Abt false neutrals... i got to take it apart and find out... ill look into it...

All i can do now is pray that nothing worse has happened inside...

But **** gsxr k5 engine.... 10yrs down the line i thought this would be bloody reliable... but i am wrong
 

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Discussion Starter #11
This bike may not be as smooth as a honda but it shifts pretty **** smooth overall.....the behavior described by the OP is in no way normal for this bike.....with that said....It doesn't sound like something easily fixed at home to me.....so, especially if it is still under warranty....the answer is simple.....to it to the shop.
Yeah seems to me thats the only option
 

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I have a 2016 gsx s1000f blue with abs and since its the latest batch... it has the updated ecu also... but snatchy throttle still exists

Actualy this issues been there from the very start at 0 miles.... at 25kms i did my first oil change myself

I poured in MOTUL 300V factory line 10W 40
Didnt change the oilfilter though

Now i am approx 900kms... and this clatter still exists if i am not extremely careful with the throttle... right now i am controlling this by stressing my right wrist very hard to initial throttle very slowly... if i release it fast... i get the clatter...

**** my wrists pain...

I dont do wheelies but i hit 6 to 7k revs occassionaly... but the manual specifies not to exceed 5k... yes i am guilty... i dont know what damage it could cause..
Fingers crossed

Abt false neutrals... i got to take it apart and find out... ill look into it...

All i can do now is pray that nothing worse has happened inside...

But **** gsxr k5 engine.... 10yrs down the line i thought this would be bloody reliable... but i am wrong
As others have said, the gearbox on this bike is excellent, butter smooth. Further, revving higher than recommended during break in would NOT cause any direct damage to your engine or transmission. Now, if you stomped on the gearshift with the engine loaded or something, that is a different story. But it sounds like you have a defective transmission from the factory. I would not put a single mile on it. Take it to the dealer and ask why your bike is riding like this.

BTW, these engines have proven to be very reliable, I know you're upset about your ride, but the vast majority of everyone on this site has had zero engine problems so far, and Suzuki is definitely known to make a reliable engine. Yours might just be a lemon.
 

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Every review along with my own opinion believes this is one of the smoothest gearboxes to use, take it back and talk to your dealer , I have had bad gearboxes before on bikes and it takes all the enjoyment out of the ride wondering how each gear change is going to go
This is true, in my opinion as well. I couldn't believe how smooth this trans was compared to my FZ-07. I had to slam that bike through every gear to make sure I didn't find a false neutral. This bike had me looking at the gear indicator on the dash constantly just to make sure it actually went up or down a gear. Also, going into neutral from 1st or 2nd is as smooth as butter, no clunk or anything - barely even any feedback from the shift lever at all. Just kind of slides out of the gear. I've only hit a false neutral a couple times when really slamming through gears at redline but that's because I haven't adjusted the lever yet. It's one of the first things I'm going to do next season.

Definitely take it to the dealer if it's still under the factory warranty. Let it be their headache, not yours.
 

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...
Actualy this issues been there from the very start at 0 miles.... at 25kms i did my first oil change myself

I poured in MOTUL 300V factory line 10W 40
Didnt change the oil filter though


...
My friend,

This is the answer to your question (or problem, if fits you better...).
You poured in synthetic oil TOO SOON (at 25 KM, right?!)
At 1.000 km you should pour semi-synthetic oil and after 6.000 km it is recommended to pour 100% synthetic oil.

That oil you poured in can damage (or has already damaged) the clutch.
IMO, go and change that engine oil with semi-synthetic oil ASAP.
And the oil filter too.


If the problem persists, go to a Suzuki workshop and ask them to check SOH of the clutch.

Good luck.
 

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My friend,

This is the answer to your question (or problem, if fits you better...).
You poured in synthetic oil TOO SOON (at 25 KM, right?!)
At 1.000 km you should pour semi-synthetic oil and after 6.000 km it is recommended to pour 100% synthetic oil.

That oil you poured in can damage (or has already damaged) the clutch.
IMO, go and change that engine oil with semi-synthetic oil ASAP.
And the oil filter too.


If the problem persists, go to a Suzuki workshop and ask them to check SOH of the clutch.

Good luck.
I did my first full synthetic change at 515 miles and I plan to do another around 1,000 miles. No problems like described here, and my break-in was pretty rough. Full synthetic at 25km though, I don't know about that... That's not much time for anything to do anything. Probably didn't even complete a full heat cycle.
 

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I did my first full synthetic change at 515 miles and I plan to do another around 1,000 miles. No problems like described here, and my break-in was pretty rough. Full synthetic at 25km though, I don't know about that... That's not much time for anything to do anything. Probably didn't even complete a full heat cycle.
After 500-600 miles (1.000 km), the break-in period can be considered accomplished.
 

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Firstly, I see a few you want to do your own servicing while in the Warranty period.
That's fine with me, but I won't as I don't want a warranty dispute like with this Guy's transmission problem.

I used to do supplementary oil changes in years past between mileage / time, but regard that now as a waste of time and money as we aren't using 1970's oil blends today.
A "serious problem" complaint to a Dealer needs to be accurately recorded on their letter headed form (and your copy) and on PC based Service Records.
I don't know about Suzuki, but Honda expect the Dealer to record it on a Honda Database. This is invaluable if you want to claim just out of warranty, as the usual Dealer fob off 'their all like that, don't worry about it' cuts no weight if you don't have history of what the Dealer did and how you reported the problem over time.

For all my new bikes, and there have been so very many over the last 25 years, all have had base mineral oil that the dealer was flogging at the Workshop, usually Shell or Motorex. The bikes were filled from unboxing right up to the 6000 km / 12 month time, then semi synthetic after that if I still kept the bike.
In my now old age, I don't do the touring miles any more, so the GSXS will have base mineral oil probably for as long as I keep it; which will be 6000 km and likely 4 years, (like the two 2011 ones before it).

Your Suzuki or Honda Owners Manual has no references to using synthethic - only 10w40 or similar, even for a GSXSR1000. Am I wrong?

My 2006 GSXR1000 K5 had base mineral for mostly half of it's 20 000 km 2 year life with me, and I explored the top end in short bursts too, but mostly was under 6000 rpm, as the K5 10 year ago torque would shame's our GSXS1000.
Yes, it was that good and it was a great bike, and great touring sports bike. Sadly missed by all.

Rob.
 

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Would you explain to me Kassu how the use of fully synthetic oil would damage a clutch? The advantage of fully synth over semi is surely that it retains its viscosity for longer and therefore provides better protection for longer against wear? At the worse it may encourage clutch slip but I have used fully synthetic over 100s of thousands of miles in my bikes and have never had any such problem. I have done over 25 thousand miles on my GSX-S1000 using fully synthetic and from my past experience expect to have lots more mechanically trouble free miles.
 

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Firstly, I see a few you want to do your own servicing while in the Warranty period.
That's fine with me, but I won't as I don't want a warranty dispute like with this Guy's transmission problem.

I used to do supplementary oil changes in years past between mileage / time, but regard that now as a waste of time and money as we aren't using 1970's oil blends today.
A "serious problem" complaint to a Dealer needs to be accurately recorded on their letter headed form (and your copy) and on PC based Service Records.

Your Suzuki or Honda Owners Manual has no references to using synthethic - only 10w40 or similar, even for a GSXSR1000. Am I wrong?

Rob.
In regards to these two comments, in the U.S. we have the Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act, which protects people who want to do all their service at home instead of being gouged by the dealer. Unless the dealer can prove our DIY service was the cause of the mechanical failure in question, they have to accept the warranty claim. This also includes aftermarket parts as well. I always keep my oil/filter receipts as well as a detailed spreadsheet about when I did all my services. I've never had any warranty issues in the last 4 bikes I've owned and my last Yamaha was in the shop about 10 times for $3,500 bucks worth of repairs.

The manual also doesn't say to NOT use synthetic either, so I would think any oil with the acceptable weight in the oil chart in the manual would be perfectly acceptable. I only get about 6 months per riding season and put about 4-6,000 miles on my bikes so I'm not worried about having to spend more for oil for the 2-3 oil changes I do. However for winter storage, I usually fill it up with any old oil I have in the garage to absorb moisture then change it out with synthetic once the season starts.
 

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Would you explain to me Kassu how the use of fully synthetic oil would damage a clutch? The advantage of fully synth over semi is surely that it retains its viscosity for longer and therefore provides better protection for longer against wear? At the worse it may encourage clutch slip but I have used fully synthetic over 100s of thousands of miles in my bikes and have never had any such problem. I have done over 25 thousand miles on my GSX-S1000 using fully synthetic and from my past experience expect to have lots more mechanically trouble free miles.
What I wanted to say is that a full synthetic oil poured in an engine of a bike with clutch issues will just reveal the clutch problems that already existed. Make them more obvious.

In one of its posts, he said:"Actually this issues been there from the very start at 0 miles". The full synthetic oil made them appear more obvious. Also, if there are some real mechanical issues at the clutch, the synthetic oil made them aggravating.

On the other hand, you should break a new engine in with a conventional, mineral-type or semi synthetic engine oil for the first 1.000-6.000 km. If you fail to follow this procedure, the piston rings may never seat.

He asked a question, I tried to help with an answer.
Mea culpa if I'm wrong.

Cheers! :)
 
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