About to order a GT+, have a couple of basic questions

3172 Views 67 Replies 13 Participants Last post by Horgh, 16 d ago

Horgh

Discussion Starter · 2 mo ago (Edited)

Hey all,

After much deliberation I'm pretty ready to order a '23 GT+ in that gorgeous Triton Blue. I haven't even seen one in person because they're unobtainium where I live, but apparently an order can get me one in a few months. I've watched dozens of YouTube reviews and related videos, researched a bunch and even spoke to Chris Moore. With all that, I have a few questions for you existing owners.

1. Every review complains about the weak brakes. Replacing pads is easy, so I assume that's a given. What about replacing the rubber lines with braided ones? Does anyone even make a kit for the GT? What about replacing the master cylinder with a radial one? I ask since I like good brakes and I also plan on getting aftermarket levers, so if I need to replace the master cylinder, I'd like to get that first so I don't have to buy two brake levers.

2. Is a service manual available for this bike? For example, I'd want to know how to properly bleed the brakes after a brake line replacement given the ABS system.

3. Is there a cross-reference anywhere, or a general overview, of what parts are compatible between the GSX-S1000 and the GT models? And what year(s)? It seems like the GT is not called out specifically on a lot of manufacturer's websites, but the base GSX-S1000 is.

4. Does anyone make an aftermarket air filter for the GT? Doesn't seem like it. It's weird that this bike seems to be so unsupported. Is it just too new still?

5. I'm going to want a full exhaust. Looks like M4 is an option but pretty loud, though the Q3 DB killer may help. I'd need to talk to Moore about the tune with that pipe and DB killer. Looks like Dominator out of Poland is another option (I'm Polish). Sounds like Lextek is coming out with a full system too, but I despise FB snobs. I'm also leaving out Brock's because they don't officially have a GT system AND I think they're all pretty loud. I like loud, but I want to have the option to make it less loud for longer trips (DB insert), or just go with a not-too-loud muffler to begin with. Am I missing any other options? I would love to see a full Yoshi system for this bike, that's the classic combo after all.

6. Some people say this bike vibrates a lot, others say it doesn't vibrate much at all. I'm a bit vibration sensitive in the feet, so is there a general consensus?

Thanks all, hopefully none of these will be a deal breaker. I already plan on replacing the tires right away, getting a tail tidy, probably a shorter windscreen (it's hot where I live), and maybe a better seat (if anyone makes one). I realize this is a "budget" bike but I fell in love with the looks and I've always wanted a high RPM inline four

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CPCNY

· #41 · 2 mo ago

Brake hose failure? I don't know anyone that has that happen, including me.

triplethreat

· #42 · 2 mo ago

CPCNY said:
Brake hose failure? I don't know anyone that has that happen, including me.

I'm with ya on that. It's probably a scarce as hen's teeth....unless they get damaged like was described above.

ccanty1975

· #43 · 2 mo ago

Horgh said:
Hey all,

As a new owner (just over 2500 kms on the GT so far) here are my answers to some of your questions

1. weak brakes.

I have heard this repeatedly, but I do not find the brakes weak, it is just that they have less feel than my old bike (BMW K1200RS) and many others, a bit wooden is how I find them.

2. Is a service manual available for this bike?

I assume so, but have not asked as servicing will be done by the dealer whilst it is under warranty.

3. Is there a cross-reference anywhere, or a general overview, of what parts are compatible between the GSX-S1000 and the GT models?

From what I have been told a lot of parts are specific to this model, but others are shared - what they are exactly I do not know yet.

4. Does anyone make an aftermarket air filter for the GT?

I would not know as I tend to stick with OEM stuff

5. I'm going to want a full exhaust.
As I get older, I find loud bikes to be obnoxious and the standard exhaust is just fine (for me).

6. Some people say this bike vibrates a lot, others say it doesn't vibrate much at all. I'm a bit vibration sensitive in the feet, so is there a general consensus?

This bike certainly vibrates more than my K1200, but that was a very smooth motor. The vibration is not too bad, mainly between the 3000 - 3300 rpm mark. It is not too bad through the bars and footpegs. I have been told that it will reduce as it runs in, but I am skeptical about that comment.

The biggest fail for me is the tyres, which really do not tell you much at all about what is going on beneath them. The suspension is also very hard if you are not a heavy person. If I have 130 - 150 kg on the bike (me and my wife with some luggage) then it is far better than just me (I am 72kg). I have a new rear shock and new front fork internals being fitted shortly. The seat will be fine once the suspension is sorted out. Yes, you can get a Corbin seat - had one on the K1200, and they are superb, but expensive.

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CaptainSlow

· #44 · 2 mo ago

triplethreat said:
I've provided factual information above, you've provided conjecture and your own personal thoughts and feelings about the brakes.

Lol no you didn't?

You have no "factual information" that the bike will stop faster with aftermarket pads versus the stock pads. What is the stopping distance from 60 mph with the stock pads, and what is the stopping distance with whatever pads you are installing, all else being equal?

CaptainSlow

· #45 · 2 mo ago

And another thing... the original post talks about replacing the brake lines with braided ones. Whether or not this is worth doing depends on what your motivation for doing so is. If it's because you think it'll make you safer on the street, or stop quicker, then you might as well save your money.

The reason people do this upgrade is because if you perform aggressive braking from high speeds, and you do this multiple times in a short span of time, this can get your brake fluid so hot that it causes the rubber hose to expand, which results in a loss of braking power. But this can only happen on the track, and even then only with a good rider riding very fast. There is absolutely no reason to do this upgrade if you never go on the track, unless you are riding in a highly illegal and dangerous manner on the street. Now if you're swimming in money then sure go ahead and do the upgrade, just know that it's not gonna make you stop any better.

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Horgh

Discussion Starter · #46 · 2 mo ago

In my opinion and understanding of physics (and it is just that), stopping distance is dependent on many things. In a controlled environment (tires, surface, temperature, weight, etc.), the limiting factor would theoretically be the ABS kicking in (which in turn is of course hugely dependent on tires). But that implies that the brake input was applied 100% efficiently up to that ABS line, and that line was then maintained until the bike stopped. In reality, during a panic stop, or even regular riding, it takes lots of years of experience and skill to be that precise and efficient. For us mere mortals (myself included) I value brake FEEL because it helps me find that line. If brakes are spongy, and to some degree if they are wooden, it is harder for me to be efficient with the brake power I actually have. Having said that, I also don't like overly grabby brakes as those can get you into trouble too, ABS and all.

I'll reserve judgement of these brakes until I actually have my bike and have a chance to ride it. I'm a fan of braided lines because they are less spongy (even in street conditions) and are tougher and less prone to damage, as was discussed earlier in this thread. I also think they look cool, and to me that is also a factor.

You can bet your bottom dollar I'm going to have an open, loud exhaust, and a proper dyno tune. Why? Because I paid for the engine, so I'm going to get everything out of it that I can and loud pipes save lives. Environmental Marxists and beta soy boys can suck it.

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triplethreat

· #47 · 2 mo ago

CaptainSlow said:
Lol no you didn't?

You have no "factual information" that the bike will stop faster with aftermarket pads versus the stock pads. What is the stopping distance from 60 mph with the stock pads, and what is the stopping distance with whatever pads you are installing, all else being equal?

Stock pads......83.259 feet. New pads 6 feet

Since my factual information that I previously posted wasn't factual, I might as well be consistent....have a good day.

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LanghamP

· #48 · 2 mo ago

Horgh said:
You can bet your bottom dollar I'm going to have an open, loud exhaust, and a proper dyno tune. Why? Because I paid for the engine, so I'm going to get everything out of it that I can and loud pipes save lives. Environmental Marxists and beta soy boys can suck it.

Actually, the EPA (and its eventual regulation soon afterwards of mobile air polluters) was proposed and enacted in 1970 by Richard Nixon and his Republican administration.

The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) is an independent executive agencyof the United States federal government tasked with environmental protectionmatters.[2] President Richard Nixon proposed the establishment of EPA on July 9, 1970; it began operation on December 2, 1970, after Nixon signed an executive order.[3] The order establishing the EPA was ratified by committee hearings in the House and Senate.

However, 150 HP on a 500 pound motorcycle isn't impressive these days. If you haven't bought your motorcycle, then why not start with a 200+ hp bike weighing 430 pounds that costs $17,000 (or about the cost of an aftermarket system and tune)?

For example, this bike, a leftover 2022 model making 165 hp but weighing 70 pounds less, is going for $17,000 without any extra fees if you pay cash, and you could probably talk this dealership down a bit. It'll absolutely smoke the GT.

Horgh

Discussion Starter · #49 · 2 mo ago (Edited)

LanghamP said:
Actually, the EPA (and its eventual regulation soon afterwards of mobile air polluters) was proposed and enacted in 1970 by Richard Nixon and his Republican administration.

However, 150 HP on a 500 pound motorcycle isn't impressive these days. If you haven't bought your motorcycle, then why not start with a 200+ hp bike weighing 430 pounds that costs $17,000 (or about the cost of an aftermarket system and tune)?

For example, this bike, a leftover 2022 model making 165 hp but weighing 70 pounds less, is going for $17,000 without any extra fees if you pay cash, and you could probably talk this dealership down a bit. It'll absolutely smoke the GT.

You misunderstood what I'm saying. I could go buy an S1000RR tomorrow, or an H2, or anything else really... I'm not after horse power or a price point. I'm simply saying that when I buy something, regardless of what it is, I want to get everything I've paid for. The engine has more power than Suzuki is allowed to map it with, thanks to the EPA. In fact a proper dyno map is much healthier for the engine too, as they all come very lean from the factory (across the board). So really you're doing your engine a favor by letting it breathe better and run cooler.

Just listen to this... it's glorious:

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LanghamP

· #50 · 2 mo ago (Edited)

Horgh said:
Also, you misunderstood what I'm saying. I could go buy an S1000RR tomorrow, or an H2, or anything else really... I'm not after horse power or a price point.

That's exactly what I thought. The GSXS1000GT doesn't exactly scream quality or cutting edge. It's the Walmart of motorcycles; a great product for its price point. I was thinking, "gosh, he can't really afford a great motorcycle, just a mediocre one, but maybe he thinks he can add 10 hp + noisemaker, and think great things".

For those of you who don't know your political terms, here's a pretty good link to where you stand (via a test).

The Political Compass

A typology of political opinions plotted on 2 dimensions: economic and social.

www.politicalcompass.org

This is mine, so somewhat lefty and somewhat libertarian I am.
Economic Left/Right: -6.25
Social Libertarian/Authoritarian: -3.23

Did you know just one man...the engineer that invented leaded gas...was responsible for the death of millions including himself? The EPA was instrumental in removing leaded gasoline from automobiles pumps but, evidently, not aviation (?!). I fail to see how thinking people in favor of the EPA are Marxist soy boys. It sounds unhinged, reactionary, ignorant, and hateful. It sounds like a Proud Boy. Got on ya.

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triplethreat

· #51 · 2 mo ago

Does this place have any rules against political discussion....I don't come to a motorcycle forum to discuss politics.

LanghamP

· #52 · 2 mo ago

triplethreat said:
Does this place have any rules against political discussion....I don't come to a motorcycle forum to discuss politics.

Removing the catalytic converter and adding a noisemaker is inherently political because it's a rejection of legally passed environmental laws. It's illegal to do because while one person may cause minimal or non-measurable damage, everyone doing so causes a lot of damage. It's akin to coal-rollers who hail from a certain incestous demographic in Alabama.

Hence, while the original poster has legitimate concerns and questions about his "new" motorcycle, #5 question is a question on how to illegally bypass the EPA-regulated emissions systems put on my the manufacturer. Curiously, in CA being caught with an aftermarket pipe was a $1000 fine but was then amended to a fix-it ticket. Everything else the original poster is sensible and non-political, in my opinion.

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Horgh

Discussion Starter · #53 · 2 mo ago (Edited)

triplethreat said:
Does this place have any rules against political discussion....I don't come to a motorcycle forum to discuss politics.

Good point, I don't know, I'll let it go. No point arguing with people who are that lost. Edit: I've now ignored him.

Horgh

Discussion Starter · #54 · 2 mo ago (Edited)

Edit: I'm not gonna waste my breath. But, Dixie Pride.

triplethreat

· #55 · 2 mo ago

LanghamP said:
Removing the catalytic converter and adding a noisemaker is inherently political because it's a rejection of legally passed environmental laws.

There's probably 100,000 or more laws in this country.....should we discuss all of them too? It's a motorcycle forum.....leave the politics out of it and and if you don't agree with what someone does, or doesn't do to their bikes, just move along without the political commentary and or preaching. I'd be willing to bet that you could find a forum to discuss all that stuff, but please, don't bring it in here.

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Gixis1k

· #56 · 2 mo ago

I have a Sprint Air filter with 48500 miles , Airbox is immaculate , utter BS when folk claim the airbox gets filled with sh*t , it doesn't. I live in rural UK , ride all year round & have been caught more times than i can remember behind tractors with untidy hay bails , snow , rain , crap saline weather on the coast right into the thick of things in London traffic.

Brake lines will always improve the bike , as will pads & calipers! Calipers aren't needed , my seals went & i needed a kit asap & couldn't get hold of one for weeks so addiction motorsport sent me M50 calipers within 12hours of ordering (special delivery service after explaining my predicament) they are a significant improvement - but pads I'd say are the best upgrade , the HEL brake lines were blatantly noticeable & the 19rcs (should've got 17rcs) allowed for finger braking (not like my RSV4 but better than OEM)

Some will say its unescessary ; depends on your riding style , I went to a 15t front sprocket & a 42 rear this is a 4 tooth change in favour of acceleration , total overkill , 2 tooth is probably perfect. because of this change braking becomes even more important to me as I found myself bolting past traffic in the country lanes.

Rear brake line was a pain in the arse to install because of the servo motor , which i got fed up with & started hitting with a hammer (i lost my temper bigtime - man baby moment) & concluded that a servo eliminator is getting ordered - regrettable decision as a decatted SC Project system with a drilled out baffle is to darn loud - I hate it 🤦‍♂️

I added a Wilbers nightline Shock ( i wrote a detailed - with pictures - procedure of how i did it simply using a car jack ; there's better ways for sure)
The Rear Suspension is Terrible , literally awful - each to their own & many will claim its fine , which is cool - I'd argue its like a Pig in s**t , until they experience Mud , they don't know any different - it all goes back to your riding style!

The engine is excellent , too low on power for me but its solid nonetheless , if this is your main bike , I'd say :

-Rear Shock
-Brake Lines & Pads
-Tune (of somesort - i use a rapidbike ecu Module)
-Money Save to get something better 👈👍

How much is the bike? There really are better options - again stellar engine , low on power , all else is below par. second hand BMW S1000rr is a much better bike! Tuono? Panigale v2? gixxer?

EDIT : I HAVE THE 18'NAKED so take my overall critique with a pinch of salt

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Gixis1k

· #57 · 2 mo ago

Supercharger said:
Braided lines are not needed. 80% of your front lines is hard line. The rears are rubber but you will need to remove the rear shock to get at the fittings. A set of SBS RS or RST (new formulation) pads are all you need to vastly improve initial bite and braking power. If you want sublime lever feel and control upgrade to a Brembo RCS19 master cylinder too. I would start with just the pads. They are so good you may not feel the need to upgrade anything else. I ran a set of the RS and now have the RST pads. Braking feel is identical, but the RST pads make a very slight howl from about 5 mph til you stop. above 5mph they make no noise. SBS says the new RST formula pads last a bit longer and are easier on rotors. RS pads lasted me about 10K miles and still had plenty of life left but one side was wearing uneven. I decided if I was going to clean the calipers I would replace the pads a bit early. I also replaced the OEM m/c with the Brembo. My brakes are ridiculous now. More than two fingers on the lever is asking for trouble.

agreed ; removing the shock is so much easier , i did it without doing this & got very very very very frustrated (my neighbours definitely heard me lol)

Brembo claim 19rcs is for 32-34mm pistons , i believe m40s are 30mm so 17rcs is sufficient & recommended , i went with the 19 , they work . . . . . but , they could be better

Gixis1k

· #58 · 2 mo ago

Horgh said:
Thank you for the additional recommendations. I definitely plan to try the brakes before I go messing with anything, but this is just part of my up-front research so I know what my options are. Since you replaced your master cylinder, what was the bleeding procedure with this ABS bike like? Do you have to actuate the pump somehow?

I ended up ruining the ABS lines so had to measure up & order some from custom braided lines , & No bleeding on this bike was / is easy however I learned quickly that I HATE the ABS on this machine its frickin intrusive (a dealer told me its doing its job well as its supposed to , I argued it makes me feel unsafe as I'm not a panic braker - i've needed to brake hard in several situations on this bike - & the bike stops way better with the ABS pump fuse taken out) & really gets on my nerves so i've disabled it , however for the sake of my MOT i need to put the fuse in every year & to pass it.

Horgh said:
I tend to keep my bikes and cars a while, so the initial investment is worth it over the time I use it. The three areas I always try to square away are engine tune (don't like a lean engine and I despise emissions laws), suspension and brakes. A properly tuned suspension is also a safer suspension, and I like to know I can stop fast when needed, especially since this bike has ABS. So to me those investments are worth it. Just another perspective

I'm the same , however if your gonna play with the exhaust I highly recommend keeping the servo motor , this bike decatted is loud & doesn't sound nice screaming , unless you like that suzuki banshee whine - I'm a v-twin / v4 man , R1 & MT series sound pukka though , BMW also sounds awesome

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triplethreat

· #59 · 2 mo ago

Gixis1k said:
I ended up ruining the ABS lines so had to measure up & order some from custom braided lines , & No bleeding on this bike was / is easy however I learned quickly that I HATE the ABS on this machine its frickin intrusive (a dealer told me its doing its job well as its supposed to , I argued it makes me feel unsafe as I'm not a panic braker - i've needed to brake hard in several situations on this bike - & the bike stops way better with the ABS pump fuse taken out) & really gets on my nerves so i've disabled it , however for the sake of my MOT i need to put the fuse in every year & to pass it.

I'm the same , however if your gonna play with the exhaust I highly recommend keeping the servo motor , this bike decatted is loud & doesn't sound nice screaming , unless you like that suzuki banshee whine - I'm a v-twin / v4 man , R1 & MT series sound pukka though , BMW also sounds awesome

Quick question....so if you take the ABS pump fuse out, does it throw any codes and does the ECU accept that fact that the ABS pump in not working......How about a warning light on the dash....yes? No?

Horgh

Discussion Starter · #60 · 2 mo ago

Gixis1k said:
-Rear Shock
-Brake Lines & Pads
-Tune (of somesort - i use a rapidbike ecu Module)
-Money Save to get something better 👈👍

How much is the bike? There really are better options - again stellar engine , low on power , all else is below par. second hand BMW S1000rr is a much better bike! Tuono? Panigale v2? gixxer?

EDIT : I HAVE THE 18'NAKED so take my overall critique with a pinch of salt

Ok, so you're not really comparing apples to apples here, more like apples to grapples. I'm already planning to get a feel for the brakes and suspension and replace both if I find them substandard. But opinions on both vary, so I'll see what I think. I have no problem taking my bike to a proper suspension shop, I do it with my dirt bikes all the time.

Once again I'll say that I CHOSE the GT+ out of all the currently popular bikes out there. Why? Because it has the features, looks and yes, performance I wanted. I specifically wanted an inline four, I've had twins my whole life, I have a triple, I want a four. It wasn't about the money, nor was it about raw performance, it was about hitting that sweet spot of fun, longer distance riding.

Gixis1k said:
I'm the same , however if your gonna play with the exhaust I highly recommend keeping the servo motor , this bike decatted is loud & doesn't sound nice screaming , unless you like that suzuki banshee whine - I'm a v-twin / v4 man , R1 & MT series sound pukka though , BMW also sounds awesome

Again, people are different, and I want that Suzuki banshee scream. I'm ripping out all the useless parts as soon as I secure a date for a dyno tune. Yeah, it'll be loud, but with an optional baffle, less so for longer trips. I always ride with earplugs anyway.

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