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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Gents,

I've been having a blast on my naked model 2020 GSX-S1000. I purchased the bike brand new about a month ago and it currently has 680 miles on it. Since then, I've been researching online trying to soak up whatever I can about the bike and I've managed to gather a ton of very useful information from this site.

So far, I've installed an M4 slip-on exhaust, shorty levers, (CRG knock-off) bar end mirrors, Evotech Performance frame sliders/front and rear axle sliders and swingarm spools, a Vagabond fender eliminator, front and rear LED turn signals, and an LED license plate bulb. I also removed the reflectors on the front fender and ordered some new Suzuki fender bolts to replace the unsightly reflector mounting studs.

Today I decided to pull the fairings off for the first time, lift and remove the fuel tank, remove the airbox cover and air filter, and then remove the airbox restrictor plate. The job took me about 40 minutes from start to finish and was incredibly simple. I'm really enjoying how easy this bike is to modify, repair, and maintain. Since this mod is easy and free, I figured I could reverse it if needed for whatever reason.

Here's where things get interesting. After removing the airbox restrictor plate, I took the bike out for a 30 minute ride and was amazed at the difference it made. The bike seems to have TONS more torque throughout the entire RPM band, but most notably, at very low RPM. The bike will happily pull itself along in sixth gear at low speeds that it didn't previously like and it pulls like a freight train from those lower RPM's.

Also, being a 2020 model, my bike didn't suffer from the terrible throttle snatch of the earlier model year bikes, but it was still there enough to be slightly annoying. Low speed throttle inputs are now buttery smooth with no more jerkiness. No longer do light inputs of the throttle cause the bike to lurch forward and same goes for closing the throttle. No more of the previous hard "on/off switch" feel. It's smooth on, smooth off.

Lastly, I noticed the bike will idle along at very low speeds in first gear without me having to manipulate it by feathering the clutch in and out. I have a roundabout near my house that I previously had to feather the clutch in and out in order to follow slow moving vehicles around. Now the bike will pull itself along at 8-10 MPH with the clutch out and the engine at idle speed. I used to have the same problem in parking lots. Very low speeds required a lot of clutch manipulation in order to keep the bike moving at very low speed and prevent it from suffering that on/off jerkiness. I went to my son's high school parking lot and tested this some more by cruising around in first gear with the clutch out and the bike will simply putt around the lot at idle between 8-10 MPH.

In summary, I never really realized just how bad this bike was with low speed movement and on/off throttle inputs until I've now ridden it without those issues. It's like a totally different bike and I couldn't be happier. I'm intrigued about why simply removing the airbox restrictor plate would make such an extraordinary difference in the ridability of this bike. I can only assume that the restrictor plate was so effective at restricting airflow that it was acting like a carbureted bike with the choke engaged and now without it in place, the bike can breathe properly.

Has anyone else with a stock bike removed the plate and noticed anything similar?
 

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For me all it did was make more intake noise and feel like less torque, I put it back in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Amazing how the same modification can produce different results on different bikes. Could be because of whatever differences there are between your '15 and my '20 model year bike. I think in '17 is when they went to E4 emissions standards, so I'm sure there are some differences that I'm not fully aware of.

Also, I did notice the increase in intake/induction howl, which I actually like.
 

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This really requires more investigation. I have 2020 model and more howl is more than welcome, more smootness is just an option :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This really requires more investigation. I have 2020 model and more howl is more than welcome, more smootness is just an option :)
If you get bored one day try it and let me know what your results are. I'm really curious how it'll be on another 2020 bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I just saw a thread from about six months ago by a member by the name of "9hound" who dyno'd his bike with and without this air box restrictor plate and he picked up 5hp after removing it. I guess the things I noticed after removing mine weren't just in my head. It really does make a significant difference. Here's a link to his thread:


Also, I've noticed older threads about the airbox mod where guys are mentioning removing the blockoff plates on each side of the frame that lead into the airbox. They must have changed something along the line because my 2020 naked bike doesn't have those ducts blocked off. They're completely open from the factory. Has anyone else noticed this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
For me all it did was make more intake noise and feel like less torque, I put it back in.
I read an older post of yours (shown below) where you were discussing the restrictor plate and you said after removing it you noticed no difference in sound, yet here in my thread you said the intake noise was louder. Which one is it?

45612


I certainly noticed an increase in intake noise on my bike after removal and I like it.
 

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I read an older post of yours (shown below) where you were discussing the restrictor plate and you said after removing it you noticed no difference in sound, yet here in my thread you said the intake noise was louder. Which one is it?

View attachment 45612

I certainly noticed an increase in intake noise on my bike after removal and I like it.
I tried a couple of times over the years with and without the plate when changing the filters and decided it was louder. Plus with earplugs in you don't notice it so much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I tried a couple of times over the years with and without the plate when changing the filters and decided it was louder. Plus with earplugs in you don't notice it so much.
Makes sense. I don't ride with ear plugs in. My bike isn't loud enough to need them. At least not yet..😆
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I would advise a remap
I have plans to do that soon. There are some other modifications in the works that I need to finish up beforehand. I may put the plate back in until then because if the bike is lean down low like previous model years, I don't like the idea of it running even more lean now that it's getting more air.

Has anyone seen a bone stock 2020 bike dyno'd? I'd like to see if there's been any changes to the fueling, and if so, if it’s better or worse than before.
 

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Has anyone seen a bone stock 2020 bike dyno'd? I'd like to see if there's been any changes to the fueling, and if so, if it’s better or worse than before.
Loads of changes. They made it euro 6 compliant. Different map, different cam timing, new valve springs, fly by wire, extra catalyst. More efficient burn and got rid of the mid range flat spot to name a few.
I doubt the fuelling map would be any good on our older models though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Loads of changes. They made it euro 6 compliant. Different map, different cam timing, new valve springs, fly by wire, extra catalyst. More efficient burn and got rid of the mid range flat spot to name a few.
I doubt the fuelling map would be any good on our older models though.
Fly by wire? My 2020 has standard throttle cables and it definitely has the flat spot between 5-7k. It's very noticeable. At first I thought it may have been the traction control engaging, but then I realized what it really was. It's the dip in power that this bike is known for. 😑

What changes were made to the valve springs and why? Also, where is the additional cat located? Do the US bikes all get the Euro 6 changes, because my bike isn't aligned with some of the things you mentioned.

ETA: After a quick Google search, I'm only seeing Euro 5 (started January 1, 2020) for motorcycles. Nothing for Euro 6, except for cars.
 

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I have plans to do that soon. There are some other modifications in the works that I need to finish up beforehand. I may put the plate back in until then because if the bike is lean down low like previous model years, I don't like the idea of it running even more lean now that it's getting more air.

Has anyone seen a bone stock 2020 bike dyno'd? I'd like to see if there's been any changes to the fueling, and if so, if it’s better or worse than before.
Yeah mine +12hp, more mid and smooth. Handles better to due to being able to ride her properly. Slight plateau in hp at 7,25 to 7,75.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yeah be careful in 3rd gear when it's done, lol. Shes a 2019
I can't wait for the tune/flash. It's not easy to get the front end up with this bike, probably because of the restrictions in the first few gears. I'm sure it doesn't help that I'm 230lbs with gear, though. Lol. I'm hoping the bike will power wheelie easier after the flash.

Been considering regearing it, too, but I'll probably wait until after it's been flashed. Might not feel the need then. Did you have yours dyno tuned or a mail in flash?
 

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I can't wait for the tune/flash. It's not easy to get the front end up with this bike, probably because of the restrictions in the first few gears. I'm sure it doesn't help that I'm 230lbs with gear, though. Lol. I'm hoping the bike will power wheelie easier after the flash.

Been considering regearing it, too, but I'll probably wait until after it's been flashed. Might not feel the need then. Did you have yours dyno tuned or a mail in flash?
Dynoed as there are hardware and software things to do as you will know. Also every bike is different.
 
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