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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Get the M4 headers with longer secondaries, flash your ECU (Dano’s did mine), and go up 2 teeth on the rear and power wheelies shall be easy
Two teeth up on the rear or maybe one down up front is what I was thinking, but I'll definitely wait until after the exhaust and flash because I may not feel the need at that time. Dano is who I plan on sending my ECU to for the flash if I can't find a reputable and trustworthy tuner locally for an in person tuning session on the dyno.

As for the M4 exhaust, I wish they sold their headers separately. If I go with them I'll have to modify the tail end to fit a different slip on because I don't care for the look of the angle/positioning of their muffler. It doesn't flow well, in my opinion. I prefer more of an angle upward in relation to the swingarm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
FWIW, I did not notice any difference removing the airbox baffle.
What year is your bike? Mine is a '20 and it seems I've heard from a couple guys with newer bikes say they noticed more of a difference after this mod like I did and then the guys with the earlier bikes saying that they didn't notice much of anything. Not sure why it would matter, though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
2019. It was stock when I removed, IIRC. Before the exhaust and Woolich.
The only thing performance-wise that isn't stock on my bike (currently and when I removed the plate) is an M4 slip-on, but I can't see that making any difference. All I know is I wasn't expecting any advantages while removing the plate, but I was pleasantly surprised on the first ride after doing so.

Same with the M4 slip-on. I've read 1000x here that a slip-on won't change the sound of the bike, but the M4 has a considerably louder exhaust note then the stock slip-on and it also enhanced the noise level of the pops and gurgles on decel.
 

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Fly by wire? My 2020 has standard throttle cables and it definitely has the flat spot between 5-7k. It's very noticeable. At first I thought it may have been the traction control engaging, but then I realized what it really was. It's the dip in power that this bike is known for. 😑

What changes were made to the valve springs and why? Also, where is the additional cat located? Do the US bikes all get the Euro 6 changes, because my bike isn't aligned with some of the things you mentioned.

ETA: After a quick Google search, I'm only seeing Euro 5 (started January 1, 2020) for motorcycles. Nothing for Euro 6, except for cars.
Its the 2021 that has the changes.
 

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Hello Gents,

I've been having a blast on my naked model 2020 GSX-S1000. I purchased the bike brand new about a month ago and it currently has 680 miles on it. Since then, I've been researching online trying to soak up whatever I can about the bike and I've managed to gather a ton of very useful information from this site.

So far, I've installed an M4 slip-on exhaust, shorty levers, (CRG knock-off) bar end mirrors, Evotech Performance frame sliders/front and rear axle sliders and swingarm spools, a Vagabond fender eliminator, front and rear LED turn signals, and an LED license plate bulb. I also removed the reflectors on the front fender and ordered some new Suzuki fender bolts to replace the unsightly reflector mounting studs.

Today I decided to pull the fairings off for the first time, lift and remove the fuel tank, remove the airbox cover and air filter, and then remove the airbox restrictor plate. The job took me about 40 minutes from start to finish and was incredibly simple. I'm really enjoying how easy this bike is to modify, repair, and maintain. Since this mod is easy and free, I figured I could reverse it if needed for whatever reason.

Here's where things get interesting. After removing the airbox restrictor plate, I took the bike out for a 30 minute ride and was amazed at the difference it made. The bike seems to have TONS more torque throughout the entire RPM band, but most notably, at very low RPM. The bike will happily pull itself along in sixth gear at low speeds that it didn't previously like and it pulls like a freight train from those lower RPM's.

Also, being a 2020 model, my bike didn't suffer from the terrible throttle snatch of the earlier model year bikes, but it was still there enough to be slightly annoying. Low speed throttle inputs are now buttery smooth with no more jerkiness. No longer do light inputs of the throttle cause the bike to lurch forward and same goes for closing the throttle. No more of the previous hard "on/off switch" feel. It's smooth on, smooth off.

Lastly, I noticed the bike will idle along at very low speeds in first gear without me having to manipulate it by feathering the clutch in and out. I have a roundabout near my house that I previously had to feather the clutch in and out in order to follow slow moving vehicles around. Now the bike will pull itself along at 8-10 MPH with the clutch out and the engine at idle speed. I used to have the same problem in parking lots. Very low speeds required a lot of clutch manipulation in order to keep the bike moving at very low speed and prevent it from suffering that on/off jerkiness. I went to my son's high school parking lot and tested this some more by cruising around in first gear with the clutch out and the bike will simply putt around the lot at idle between 8-10 MPH.

In summary, I never really realized just how bad this bike was with low speed movement and on/off throttle inputs until I've now ridden it without those issues. It's like a totally different bike and I couldn't be happier. I'm intrigued about why simply removing the airbox restrictor plate would make such an extraordinary difference in the ridability of this bike. I can only assume that the restrictor plate was so effective at restricting airflow that it was acting like a carbureted bike with the choke engaged and now without it in place, the bike can breathe properly.

Has anyone else with a stock bike removed the plate and noticed anything similar?
I really appreciated reading your account; I just had my 2016 GSXSFA1000 serviced and had that baffle removed from under the airbox. I haven't riddenit yet, but given that I have black widow exhausts from header to the stock muffler, catalytic converter removed, and so forth, I am excited to get the bike out and experience what you have described. Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I really appreciated reading your account; I just had my 2016 GSXSFA1000 serviced and had that baffle removed from under the airbox. I haven't riddenit yet, but given that I have black widow exhausts from header to the stock muffler, catalytic converter removed, and so forth, I am excited to get the bike out and experience what you have described. Cheers
Glad you liked it! I hope your results are similar. Also, you really should have the bike tuned or at least flashed to account for the modifications. I'm sending my ECU out in a couple days. Have fun!
 

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Glad you liked it! I hope your results are similar. Also, you really should have the bike tuned or at least flashed to account for the modifications. I'm sending my ECU out in a couple days. Have fun!
Cheers, I've ridden it now with the air baffle removed and you were right, it is a marked improvement and I would recommend it to anyone. As for a reflash, all those problems were substantially fixed at low cost with a boosterplug
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Cheers, I've ridden it now with the air baffle removed and you were right, it is a marked improvement and I would recommend it to anyone. As for a reflash, all those problems were substantially fixed at low cost with a boosterplug
Glad it worked for you! And the Booster Plug seems to be a good alternative to a flash for many guys.
 
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