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Discussion Starter #1
Hiya...

Should be picking up my new bike this weekend. I have seen various combos for gearing but thought I would try to dial it in for my own situation. I live in a place surrounded by mountain passes and winding roads. Most of my touring is done in 3rd gear on a Mk1 1200 Bandit with -1 tooth on the front sprocket.

As it's a new bike, I don't want to buy a new chain. Tightening up the wheelbase sounds like a step in the right direction or at least not lengthening it. I am thinking -1+1 F/R. I see most are going -1+2, although I don't know if this required new links or a new chain.

Any advice appreciated!
 

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Hiya...



Should be picking up my new bike this weekend. I have seen various combos for gearing but thought I would try to dial it in for my own situation. I live in a place surrounded by mountain passes and winding roads. Most of my touring is done in 3rd gear on a Mk1 1200 Bandit with -1 tooth on the front sprocket.



As it's a new bike, I don't want to buy a new chain. Tightening up the wheelbase sounds like a step in the right direction or at least not lengthening it. I am thinking -1+1 F/R. I see most are going -1+2, although I don't know if this required new links or a new chain.



Any advice appreciated!


I ride mostly mountain carving roads, stock gearing is perfect, only if I want to do 200 mph in a contest I would ever change the gearing, The bike runs perfect in 5-8k RPM all day


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Discussion Starter #3
I ride mostly mountain carving roads, stock gearing is perfect, only if I want to do 200 mph in a contest I would ever change the gearing, The bike runs perfect in 5-8k RPM all day


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Are you running a 190/55 rear tire? That's what is going on mine straight out of the dealer.
 

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Are you running a 190/55 rear tire? That's what is going on mine straight out of the dealer.


Yup I’m running a 190/55

Stock gearing is still nothing but perfection, top end is great and the bottom end is perfect when the fuel cut is turned off


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Yup I’m running a 190/55

Stock gearing is still nothing but perfection, top end is great and the bottom end is perfect when the fuel cut is turned off


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Good to know, thanks!

I am installing Holeshot's fuel controller so hopefully Dale dealt with the fuel cut in his tune.
 

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Hiya...

Should be picking up my new bike this weekend. I have seen various combos for gearing but thought I would try to dial it in for my own situation. I live in a place surrounded by mountain passes and winding roads. Most of my touring is done in 3rd gear on a Mk1 1200 Bandit with -1 tooth on the front sprocket.

As it's a new bike, I don't want to buy a new chain. Tightening up the wheelbase sounds like a step in the right direction or at least not lengthening it. I am thinking -1+1 F/R. I see most are going -1+2, although I don't know if this required new links or a new chain.

Any advice appreciated!
New bike, my advice to ride it for a while get a feel for the machine before you go change the gearing. I never like to change the gearing on any of my bikes but hey that's me.
 

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I went +2 on the rear and wish I had gone +3 after I went to the 55 rear. It helped shorten the wheelbase which helps make it turn quicker. I ride very tight mountain roads so that was one of the benefits for me, along with riding in a lower gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Makes sense to ride the bike for a while to get used to it as is. It's not like they would do a straight swap for different sprockets, even from new.

Does anyone know if the same chain will accommodate -1/+...?
 

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I bought my 2016 GSXS1000S new. Every thing is still stock, but changed sprockets to -1/+2 front and rear for shorter gearing and kept the same chain ( type 525, pitch 15.875mm, links 116... from memory?? ) I am currently riding with 200/60 profile rear tyre. All great
Note: should get a cushion front sprocket to prevent some whining>>:nerd:
 

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I found it interesting my 2018 had an undampened front sprocket on it as stock, and I never noticed noise and vibration. I put an undampened 16T Vortex on it and still no issues.
 

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I'm not directing this at anyone on here and not trying to pick a fight, as every person and situation is different, so here goes:
It seems a lot of guys just ASSUME you need to -1/+2 on a sportbike to make it work on the street. And there might be something to that (Ducati's are notoriously geared high and the RC-51 I had the pleasure of using for a few months really could have used a gearing change, too.) But when I got on this GSX-S1000 and rode it around, it is actually geared pretty perfectly for twisty roads and around town riding. If anything, it is geared a bit too low (for my tastes) for a lot of freeway riding (70+ miles per hour here in Texas.) But for the riding you are describing, I think you'll like it 'as is'. Finally, a powerful liter bike that comes off the showroom floor with good gearing 'as is'. Thank you Suzuki! (Plus it has a pretty 'throaty' pipe on it! No need to spend money there, either. If only they could have put a 'real' rear shock on this thing...)



Your plan to hold off and ride the bike first is GOOD. See what YOU think. Suzuki actually gave it really good 'street gearing' knowing they weren't trying to out-do someone else's liter bike's top speed. This isn't a 'high speed' (150+) machine. That's not it's 'thing'.
 

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This isn't a 'high speed' (150+) machine. That's not it's 'thing'.
You just said it yourself bud! That's exactly why -1/+2 is so popular. I don't care about going even over 130 really. It's all about making the bike more exciting in the speed range that you spend the most time in. And if you go up in tire size to 190/55 the difference isn't really that dramatic anyway. I've done the -1 front sprocket with the taller tire, and probably gonna do at least +1 rear in the near future as well.
 

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I dropped one front tooth on my bike after owning it for about 8 months. I can say that the bike is more fun. Without timing retard eliminator, and tune and full exhaust, it wasn’t great though. All of those mods are really what transformed the bike for me. It is a wild, uncaged beast now compared to stock. I’m not sure how it would behave with these mods on stock gearing, but I love it the way it is, so I’m not going back. To me, it isn’t bad to roll at 80 mph now. A lot of guys that complain about it at highway speed with stock gearing must be used to touring bikes. When I want comfort on a long trip, I take my car. My bikes are for excitement! No music, no interruptions, just wind noise and awesome engine noises, and smells, and hot or cold, and bugs, and discomfort. It’s why I ride! That and power wheelies! With this gearing and my setup, Third gear power wheelies at breakneck speeds are just a twist of the wrist away!! If the noise and vibration isn’t your cup of tea, no worries! Make it the way you like it! If I need comfort on two wheels, they make those bikes too. This bike is comfy enough to me for 300 miles (done that a few times now), great for hooning, and I don’t have to stop every 30 miles like the super sport/super bike crowds I sometimes ride with. I’ve learned to take my supersport bikes with clip ons- on rides with them so I don’t get annoyed at all the stops��! I personally enjoy the lower gearing, but I totally get that others do not. I have an RC51 too, switched it from a 190/50 rear tire to 190/55. That raised the gearing noticeably. I was already plus 2 on back sprocket, so I went -1 in front and solved the tire gearing change. $20 well spent! My GSXS front sprocket was even cheaper, but I had to remove a chain link. No going back on that one! I’m ok with that! Gonna do a 190/55 on the GSXs one day, and will probably add one rear tooth to keep it similar gearing to what I have now because it is great to me!
 

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My GSXS front sprocket was even cheaper, but I had to remove a chain link. No going back on that one! I’m ok with that! Gonna do a 190/55 on the GSXs one day, and will probably add one rear tooth to keep it similar gearing to what I have now because it is great to me!
Hey man, how much did removing one link shorten the wheelbase? Like based on the marks on the swingarm? I have the 16T front also. Thanks
 

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Without removing a link, I was all the way at the back of the adjuster. Now it is just forward of half way back I believe. I’m not where I can look at it at the moment. It needed shortened a bit in my opinion.
 

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Without removing a link, I was all the way at the back of the adjuster. Now it is just forward of half way back I believe. I’m not where I can look at it at the moment. It needed shortened a bit in my opinion.
Gotcha. Yeah I can only see one adjuster mark on my swingarm now. It was pretty far back anyway in stock form. I noticed my friend's 2014 gsxr1000, which has the same swingarm I believe, has the wheel much further forward. I think I'll go +1 on the back but that will only put it back to the original position I assume.
 

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190/55/17 rear - stock chain. 9000 miles no wear - scottoiler - weekly maint.

+4 on back and -1 in front - fkin dangerous with TC off and pulling timing on throttle with TC @ 1
+2 on back and -1 in front - about right with TC off - off throttle wheelies in second to redline, first pops front with throttle inputs - instant response and decent Cruising.

Tried many more set ups from 43 rear / 45 rear / 47 rear etc. settled on -1/+2 with 55 tyre.

Bike is decatted, no muffler/ SC can - drop in filter - HEALTECH goodies - Reflashed. put down 149/82
 

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190/55/17 rear - stock chain. 9000 miles no wear - scottoiler - weekly maint.

+4 on back and -1 in front - fkin dangerous with TC off and pulling timing on throttle with TC @ 1
+2 on back and -1 in front - about right with TC off - off throttle wheelies in second to redline, first pops front with throttle inputs - instant response and decent Cruising.

Tried many more set ups from 43 rear / 45 rear / 47 rear etc. settled on -1/+2 with 55 tyre.

Bike is decatted, no muffler/ SC can - drop in filter - HEALTECH goodies - Reflashed. put down 149/82
Good info. Maybe I'll just go straight to 46T then. Sounds like fun.
 
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