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Hi all. New user here.
Bought my gsxs 1000f in July 2017 and love it.
I do have an issue though and was hoping someone on here might be able to advise if poss?
The anti stall feature won’t allow me to travel lower than 10mph in 1st gear with the clutch out. This is a pain when in slow moving traffic. I asked my garage if they could adjust anything and they said it’s jist how the bike works.
I’ve done a bit of digging and come across discussions on adjusting the TPS but it isn’t clear if that would fix my issue.
Can anyone advise?

Thanks
 

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Hi all. New user here.
Bought my gsxs 1000f in July 2017 and love it.
I do have an issue though and was hoping someone on here might be able to advise if poss?
The anti stall feature won’t allow me to travel lower than 10mph in 1st gear with the clutch out. This is a pain when in slow moving traffic. I asked my garage if they could adjust anything and they said it’s jist how the bike works.
I’ve done a bit of digging and come across discussions on adjusting the TPS but it isn’t clear if that would fix my issue.
Can anyone advise?

Thanks
I'm sorry I have no advise, but I'm kinda lost on the "anti-stall" feature. I can clutch out at a crawl and everything is fine. I commute a lot and hit slow moving traffic frequently, and my bike is a gem in these, less than fun, situations. But... I don't have the throttle snatch issue either (or I'm too dumb to realize). First thing I did on my demo ride was low speed parking lot drills, and it was smooth as can be, Then I took it out on the highway and, well... I was sold. It's probably the snatch issue that has plagued a lot of bikes, and I'm one of the lucky ones. You might want to search "throttle snatch" on the forum. TPS adjustment might fix it, but there are a lot of other remedies too. Read up, and good luck.
 

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These bikes have an unusually tall 1st gear, you're not going to be able to crawl along without lugging the engine. I try to avoid situations where I'm crawling in traffic for just that reason.
 

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These bikes have an unusually tall 1st gear, you're not going to be able to crawl along without lugging the engine. I try to avoid situations where I'm crawling in traffic for just that reason.
Not unusually tall, unfortunately they used exactly the same gearbox as the GSXR, so its designed with close ratios more for racing than riding in towns, although the GSXS does have 2 more teeth on the rear sprocket to lower it slightly.

TPS may fix or improve it.

If you think it is the anti stall then try disconnecting the switch at the clutch lever to see if that improves it
 

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I just live with it. If you mess with the TPS you stand a good chance of making it very snatchy
It’s not that big a deal you only have to dip the clutch and let it coast for a bit. It’s only when I can’t lane split and the traffic is really slow on my commute that it’s a bit of a pain but if it didn’t do it you would probably only be able to slow down to 7 mph instead of 10 before you had to pull the clutch in anyway


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I seem to have lost the anti stall feature after having the Woolich re-flash done.
Odd, I have mine, also woolwich relished. Now I assume I still have it, because. well, ive never stalled. Not sure what an anti stall is. I just let it out and it pulls me. Lol fast or slow, it pulls me.
 

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Odd, I have mine, also woolwich relished. Now I assume I still have it, because. well, ive never stalled. Not sure what an anti stall is. I just let it out and it pulls me. Lol fast or slow, it pulls me.
From clutch all the way in slowly let it out; watch and listen to the RPM, if it increases before the clutch fully engages, without you giving it gas, the anti-stall is functioning.
 

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I seem to have lost the anti stall feature after having the Woolich re-flash done.
It appears that an option on the woolich reflash removes the anti-stall

One of the options normally ticked by a tuner is to unify the ignition maps and fuel maps so they are the same in all gears - this gives more ignition advance in the lower gears and makes it much easier to tune as you only have to change 1 ignition map and 1 fuel map, however unifying the ignition maps seems to turn off the anti-stall.
 

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It appears that an option on the woolich reflash removes the anti-stall

One of the options normally ticked by a tuner is to unify the ignition maps and fuel maps so they are the same in all gears - this gives more ignition advance in the lower gears and makes it much easier to tune as you only have to change 1 ignition map and 1 fuel map, however unifying the ignition maps seems to turn off the anti-stall.


going to test it tomorrow, so dont give any gas while using the clutch to figure this out? if it lifts rpms and moves, then it kept the feature.
 

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i think a high idle stops the anti stall from working also,,,or after a certain rpm anti stall does not kick in....if idle with 3 lines showing i believe it dont work....ok im ready to be stoned and whiped
 

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All the anti stall (low rpm assist TM) does is increase idle speed slightly, but if the revs are up from a cold engine start anyway you might not need it or notice it...warm the engine up first before testing for it I'd say
 

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I never knew the bike had this feature until I read about it on this forum.
Once I knew it was there I could just about feel it engaging.

I don't think it's of much use anyway, perhaps just Suzuki trying to mask the effect of lean mixture for emissions.
Changing to after market levers stopped it working.
Now I'm back to stock levers all I can say is it's inconsistent, only works sometimes, but it's no big deal at all.
 

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I never knew the bike had this feature until I read about it on this forum.
Once I knew it was there I could just about feel it engaging.

I don't think it's of much use anyway, perhaps just Suzuki trying to mask the effect of lean mixture for emissions.
Changing to after market levers stopped it working.
Now I'm back to stock levers all I can say is it's inconsistent, only works sometimes, but it's no big deal at all.
Curious about the aftermarket levers stopping it from working. Maybe that's why I've never noticed it? What is the difference between the original levers and aftermarket that would cause it to not work?
 

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Curious about the aftermarket levers stopping it from working. Maybe that's why I've never noticed it? What is the difference between the original levers and aftermarket that would cause it to not work?
Got to be due to the lever profile. Either more or less metal where it touches the micro switch so doesn't press it or never releases it.
I had to wind the knurled adjuster fully in to get the clutch lever on so it was obviously different from stock.
 

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The idle boost only happens when it's in gear. It works with my Pazzo levers; others might not have the tab that presses the switch.
 

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The idle boost only happens when it's in gear. It works with my Pazzo levers; others might not have the tab that presses the switch.
I have Pazzo levers. I'll have to check to see if the switch is getting pushed. I noticed nothing different when I installed them, but I didn't realize the anti-stall feature was there to begin with, so I'm basically a dumb-ash.:D
 
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