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hey all !
I have an issue with my 2018 gsxs 1000f clutch. 6770 miles on 4 mo old bike. Clutch is dragging when lever in when warm. Free play is proper. Neutral not achievable at a light and bike creeps forward. Bike is at berts mega mall since monday, 12/17 with no phone call or answer. Very disgusted with them. Has anyone had any clutch issues? I've talked to many friends with bikes. No clutch issues. Even the guys seeing track days. I've been told suzuki will most likely not cover the clutch problem before it was even looked at. Glad to know they make a perfect bike and no need for warranty it seems. I asked neo the service guy if he had seen any gsxr's or gsxs's with clutch issues, he said no! That says something doesn't it?


Anyone have a suggestion for a good suzuki dealer that doesn't have a ****ty service department in so. Cal? After reading yelp reviews of all local dealers, its amazing to me they are still in business. Lots of "avoid this service department" is not the most appealing thing to read when deciding to take a bike in for warranty repair.

Side note: Not my first bike! 6th actually, still riding my '07 yamaha fjr 1300 with 62,250 miles. Dealer suggested possibly i did not use clutch properly. Didn't think i would hear that!
hi i had the same thing it turned out the previous owner had fitted some cheapo levers changed them to evotech ones problem solved hope this helps
 

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I reverted to stock brake/clutch levers and now my gsxs shifts MUCH better... less throttle on/off jerkiness... and brake feel is better on OEM levers. BUT... the phantom has a lil problem now when changing gear the bike stays accelerated a little... let me explain when I pull the clutch the bike doesnt retun to idle immediately but it takes 3 seconds to go to idle . When it finally does return to idle (example at a red light) the first gear help system works good as I release the clutch it automatically revs to help me not stall...
And the lever free play is also adjusted correctly... TPS still at 1.12... so Im thinking of the clutch plates warped.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 

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I reverted to stock brake/clutch levers and now my gsxs shifts MUCH better... less throttle on/off jerkiness... and brake feel is better on OEM levers. BUT... the phantom has a lil problem now when changing gear the bike stays accelerated a little... let me explain when I pull the clutch the bike doesnt retun to idle immediately but it takes 3 seconds to go to idle . When it finally does return to idle (example at a red light) the first gear help system works good as I release the clutch it automatically revs to help me not stall...
And the lever free play is also adjusted correctly... TPS still at 1.12... so Im thinking of the clutch plates warped.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
If you pull on the throttle grip with the engine switched off, the grip should fly shut as soon as you let go.
There should be a moderate sound from the engine as the 4 primary throttle body butterflies snap closed.
I was thinking that the cables have been lubed with a product previously that now has gone sticky.

Rob.
 

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Update on Clutch issue. Found that the dealer was correct. I have not had any issues with the clutch dragging since the oil change back to Suzuki standard oil. I hate to admit it! No other items were done at the dealer other than that and confirming settings of freeplay. Have put 1600 miles since occurrence and no issues. It seems that the motul oil in this bike is not liked by the clutch. Well, frequent oil changes and factory Suzuki oil on the shelf.
I love it, very interesting! And the experts say brand or kind of oil does not matter. Clearly the oil had to do something with the malfunctioning of the bike's clutch.
Sometimes we all in the house eat fish and every body was fine except one that got terrible sick of eating the same fish.
Lots of mysteries.
 

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Am using the Motul semi synthetic 10/40. Plenty of people running that with the GSXR's and no issues. It's a very high quality oil. Can't imagine having an issue with that. Anyone else experience an oil issue with their clutch? My guess is that their is a clearance issue and is more noticeable when hot due to expansion. Or possibly an issue with the clutch drum or components. Perhaps a lack of lubrication at the clutch drum? Not a common issue as even the lousy service writer said that they don't see issues with clutches on these or the GSXR's. That's kinda of a giveaway that this is not a normal issue and that something has happened. Looking back, shifting has gotten a bit harder. Not as silky smooth as it was. This certainly shifts softer, smother than my other bikes. Although not at the moment.
I started to have problems with my clutch sticking after switching to Motul 5100 semi synth on my 2019 Gsx s1000f
I have since learnt Suzuki recommends running mineral oil for the first 10,000km break in before switching to semi or full synthetic oils, I'm fairly sure it was immediately after changing to the Motul that I noticed problems.
 

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I started to have problems with my clutch sticking after switching to Motul 5100 semi synth on my 2019 Gsx s1000f
I have since learnt Suzuki recommends running mineral oil for the first 10,000km break in before switching to semi or full synthetic oils, I'm fairly sure it was immediately after changing to the Motul that I noticed problems.
Hey @Yamato,
Just to be absolutely clear for readers of this thread, MINERAL oil is not to be run in a motorcycle engine. I believe you are referring to CONVENTIONAL MOTOR OIL (versus SYNTHETIC).

Mineral oil is clear, found in baby oil, and not at all good for a motorcycle:

Not trying to be a pedantic jerk or anything. But some people read something and then 'act' on what they read, not realizing the info shouldn't have been taken literally.

I've often heard of CONVENTIONAL motor oil being referred to as "Dino" oil (as in dinosaur) from people just being clever, but I've not heard it referred to as 'mineral oil' and didn't want someone to get confused. Peace!

Back to OPs issue - so happy to hear an oil switch fixed the problem. Always nice when the fix is unexpectedly simple.
 

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New gsxs owner here (2017 bike 5700 miles) got it a week ago, dealer put some cheap oil in so I changed it to motul 5000 10w40 and it ran perfectly fine Had the 5000 in for a week silly I know! but then I decided il actually change it again to 7100 10w40 Fully syn because I’ve always ran fully syn in my previous bike gsxr 600, and this change i did last night and literally couldn’t change from 1st to 2nd gear it took a few tries and gears felt notchy all the way home about 3 miles, it got slightly better but still gears feel notchy which they didn’t on the 5000 oil, my guess is something to do with friction additives that are making the clutch grab.

so needless to say I will switch back to 5000 oil this week again (what a tool I feel like and waste of money).

also can anyone confirm the exact amount needed for an oil and filter change 3200ml as in manual has the oil dead in the middle when it’s cold like left overnight but when doing it the 3min run 3min wait way it’s ok the bottom line.
Thanks guys

other than this issue il loving the bike a welcome over the gsxr 600 more torque and comfortable.
 

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Had some problems in the past with Motul 5000 (sometimes it was difficult to change from 1st to 2nd gear).
Last oil change I switched to Motul 7100. The engine sounds a little different at higher RPMs, but never had problems when changing gears, at least till now.
I can confirm 3200 ml for an oil and filter change shows F sign.
 

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Thanks for reply I will double check my level too as I do find it hard to believe that a high spec oil that meets and exceeds oem requirements would cause such an issue, I may be closer to 3400ml
 

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I’ve just confirmed my oil is at full level when cold as in not ridden since last night and that’s with approx 3450ml, I used 3 1 litre bottles and 550ml left in the 4th bottle, I would think there’s a abit left in each bottle and abit spilt when I put filter back on (I prefer filled it) so I would say 3400ml to be exact.
When I drain the oil I do let it drain for awhile and lean bike over both sides and that always gets more oil out.

still finding it hard to believe that 7100 would cause this issue, unless it settles after the oil has drained into sump as when filling it would go directly over the clutch pack
 

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Too much oil can cause such pain. 200 ml plus is much to much in this case.
Try first to drain the extra amount of oil and see if gets better.

7100 10w40 meets the requirements from the owner's manual.
It works fine, at least in my case.
 

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Right so took it for a quick ride and it’s absolutely fine now, didn’t drain oil or anything my only guess is when pouring the oil in the clutch obv is directly under fill hole it filled up holding oil even tho starting bike it would spin off but that would be my guess
 

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Glad you made it! Enjoy it!
Thinking of what you said, it may have sense! I didn't ride it right after I changed the oil. I use to let her sit a night before riding first time after an oil change. Someone told me this long time ago, never knew the raison why, but now it make sense...
 
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