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In people's opinions what would you say is the best system you can get . Yoshi , arrow, M4 or ? .
 

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I like my M4, it makes the beast sound like a beast :D
 

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Is that M4 a slip-on or full exhaust?
 

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I'm going to be boring and say "SUZUKI OEM" because that's the world we live in now. The catalyst cuts emissions, the exhaust valves modulate the 'pressure waves' to maximize power and torque based on gear and rpms, and the sound (on this bike) is actually pretty good without being obnoxious to the world around you.


But I know 'tricking' out the bike to make it yours is always fun - that being the case, I like a Carbon Fiber slip-on for the looks and the 'deeper bass-type' sound it usually produces. As for a full-on system - seeking more power - I'm curious to see if #Rapido1 chimes in here as he has tried a bunch of different exhausts.
 

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maybe this question will be answered better after seeing how after market holds up after 4, 5 years of wear ...wont hold up as good as oem ...dont see any reason changing the header pipe for that reason
 

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M4 headers with a custom built link pipe from 57 mm to suit a 60 mm id silencer, a remap of fueling, secondary butterflies and ignition makes 160 rear wheel horse power and 82ft-lbs torque and is linear smooth all the way through the rev range.
The M4 system is good but it can be improved on by increasing the length for better scavenging and optimising the pulse waves.
 

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Hey Robbieben,
I'm glad you posted that picture. It might just be me, but I think the bike looks better with that longer pipe on it. Gives the bike an overall appearance of being more 'visually' balanced. Nice.
 

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I'm loving my M4 with link pipe and Yoshi. The thing really screams at WOT.

With the 2WDW tune it has an incredible amount of low end torque, whereas Dano's tune seems to have better mid and upper range power.
 

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I finally got my full Yoshi set in with the R11 and it is a piece of art, it was painless to fit the system as well. The ECU is heading towards Dano's right now. Hoping it comes back before the weekend.

I would go M4 or Yoshi but with Yoshi you will most likely end up with a pretty long wait. I ordered my set about 3 months ago and got them last friday. They ended up back ordered after telling me that there was one set left.
 

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M4 headers with a custom built link pipe from 57 mm to suit a 60 mm id silencer, a remap of fueling, secondary butterflies and ignition makes 160 rear wheel horse power and 82ft-lbs torque and is linear smooth all the way through the rev range.
The M4 system is good but it can be improved on by increasing the length for better scavenging and optimising the pulse waves.
Robbie...I'm very interested in this link pipe.

Do you have any specs? Length, bend angle, taper etc....?
 

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Robbie...I'm very interested in this link pipe.

Do you have any specs? Length, bend angle, taper etc....?
I can't help you there, it was made for me by a local race exhaust specialists. I mounted the silencer where I wanted it as regards the exit to give the overall length I needed, they then made it up. Lovely piece of work all bent by machine, no welded sections so smooth right through.
 

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Hey Robbieben,
I'm glad you posted that picture. It might just be me, but I think the bike looks better with that longer pipe on it. Gives the bike an overall appearance of being more 'visually' balanced. Nice.
I think I'm in the minority, but I like the underslung GP look of the M4. It leaves the wheel and swingarm visible. I like that better than covering up that area with a muffler. Looks are subjective:)
 

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I think I'm in the minority, but I like the underslung GP look of the M4. It leaves the wheel and swingarm visible. I like that better than covering up that area with a muffler. Looks are subjective:)
I think on a bike with a single-sided swingarm, having that 'view' unobstructed is the best, just as you said. Why cover up something that is cool and unique? I never understood why Honda stuck a muffler in the way on their earlier VFRs. It was better when they moved the mufflers up under the seat, to show off the single-sided swingarm and cool wheel design more.


I never know what I'm going to like until I see it. When I saw that longer pipe on the GSX-S it just struck me as more classic and 'balanced' in appearance. The naked GSX-S seems more 'front heavy' to me (visually). As you said, "Looks are subjective". So true! I think everyone agreed that the Ducati 916 was a classic, beautiful design though. (Okay...waiting for "that" guy to pop up and explain why it was ugly now, lol!)
 

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.... (Okay...waiting for "that" guy to pop up and explain why it was ugly now, lol!)
I will fight anyone who calls that ugly! That bike and the original Katana, are the 2 reasons I learned to like sport bikes! The Katana for what it could do, for it's time, and that Ducati because it's so **** beautiful and absolutely bad ass. In 95 it had power near comparable to the gsxs1000 today!
 

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When I bought my bike, I knew I was getting a great bike with a few perceived flaws; and that playing with it / modifying it was half the enjoyment. Depending upon the year and the mods most of us are doing, the bike runs anywhere from 135hp to 165hp, with varying power curves, and the bike may or may not have a flat spot in the 3500 – 7000 rpm range.

Now some would argue the OEM exhaust looks good, sounds fine and works as expected; and the bike is a beast right off the showroom floor – and I would agree. But…………… this is an exhaust thread.

Arrow: The fit & fitment with the Arrow headers is superb – absolutely superb. Everything hooked up easy and tight. I added the Holeshot 10” Bad Boy Comp exhaust can with mid-pipe. Bike ran buttery smooth at idle, no hunting nor surging; and power throughout the rpm range was noticeably better. The bike went from a beast to a nasty SOB of a beast.

M4. Took the Arrow off last week and installed the M4. The fit & fitment is not as good as the Arrow. I did pay particular attention bolting the header to the engine, and happy to say – no leaks. I had to add washers / spacers and a longer mounting bolt as the exhaust and the can did not line up well. As soon as I started the bike – I noticed the hunting / surging others have mentioned. Out on the road, there is a detectable difference in the 3500 – 7000 rpm range. Dramatic – no; noticeable, yes. So now the bike has gone from a beast, to a nasty SOB of a Beast, to a slightly nastier SOB of a Beast.

Next step. I am having a custom mid-pipe made so I can reinstall my Holeshot 10” can. I am hoping / guessing that adding the 14” – 15” mid-pipe with the can will smooth out the idle. Once installed and tested I will report on it. Will also hit the dyno shortly after that is done and will share.

For clarity, my mods include:
K&N Filter, Restrictor plate removed, PAIR Block Off Plates, EVAP Removed, O2 sensor removed, Exhaust Valve & Actuator Removed and a full Dano’s Flash.
 

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NH, does your Holeshot can have an insert or is it straight through? If it's straight through, you may end up with a more pronounced surging than before, as the M4 can came with an insert that gives it some back pressure which Dano says is necessary for a smooth idle.
 

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I think I'm in the minority, but I like the underslung GP look of the M4. It leaves the wheel and swingarm visible. I like that better than covering up that area with a muffler. Looks are subjective:)
The M4 can is not a work of art like the others with carbon fiber or shiny aluminum.....I agree...tucked in GP look works.
 

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NH, does your Holeshot can have an insert or is it straight through? If it's straight through, you may end up with a more pronounced surging than before, as the M4 can came with an insert that gives it some back pressure which Dano says is necessary for a smooth idle.



It is a straight thru - but an insert is available if needed or desired.
 
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