Update:
Even thou the GSXR series use the same sensor, the rubber moulding around the wires that seals the engine cases where the wires exit the case are different, so it is not a plug and play replacement.
so when buying a new one, make sure that it is the correct part number, otherwise, the wires will need to be cut between the sensor and the rubber moulding replace the actual sensor or, when in a pinch the rubber moulding can be cut and removed, then swopped over to the GSXR sensor and then just sealed up with some gasket maker to ensure no oil leaks.
Due to the entire sensor, including wires and connectors are not a direct swop out, I couldn't use the one from my race bike, so not wanting to cut up the rubber boot i
went to the scrap yard and got a sensor from a stripped GSXR ( the actual sensor is exactly the same).
I found out I know more swear words than I thought, even thou the Suzuki engineers designed the perfect bike according to me, man oh man, they can also make life difficult....the way the sensor wires are routed from the sensor, between and behind a very small narrowing between the engine cases, behind the cam chain tensioning guide sucks.....
You need to partially remove the cam chain tensioning guide, without pulling it off the tensioner, or breaking the thin plastic guide, and still wiggle and pull to massage the wires out as the loose protective sleeving that goes over the wires is almost to thick to pass through the narrowing while everything is covered with oil....
I did a bench test on all 3 sensors and all 3 sensors passed the tests (Thx Rob), if you don't have the special tool Suzuki refers to, the peak voltage adapter, it makes the tests less accurate, but still doable, most pickups, being Reluctance or Hall type can be test for basic functionality easily, it is not as accurate as measuring peak voltage, but still testable.
this can be done by setting your multimeter to resistance, as per test 1 in the manual, and measure the resistance, it should be somewhere in the range outlined in the manual, then using something metal, like a ratchet/socket extension, quickly place it on the sensor and remove it (almost as if you wanted to "tap" the sensor with the extension") you should see the resistance change a lot, mine was sitting at 165 ohm for the test, and it spikes to over 200.
So not wanting to cut and crimp/solder the new sensor to my bikes harness, I decided to strip the sensor into its basic parts, Magnet, steel mount and sensor head.
I inspected each component with more detail than what I did at the start of the whole process and did notice a few more metal particles all around,
I found that the magnet had crack in it as well, so I stripped the newly bought sensor and swopped the magnets and cleaned everything.
Remember that when reinstalling the sensor, you need to space the sensor head as close as possible to the gear teeth that it needs to read, somewhere between 12 - 15 thou' ( 0.012" - 0.015" ),
Here's a school of hard knock's tip, even thou you might be tempted to grab onto the rubber moulding to grip the oil covered wires better when massaging it into place, DON'T, the wire seems to go hard after a few years, and the wire coating cracks and break, exposing the inner wire where it meets the rubber moulding...(insert more swear words here), I only noticed this once the wires were back in place....(insert more swear words here). so strip it all out again, clean the rubber moulding and the wires and used some gasket maker to seal it all up before reinstalling again....
at this stage, taking photos were the last thing on my mind, so sorry for not having any photos for backing up the detail in the post
Once the reinstall was done, I redid the tests, all passed,
then tried to start it and it fired up first time.
Took it for a test ride and all seemed fine,
intentionally restarting the bike 20 times and it fired up each time as expected
In summary,
bike died and wouldn't start
no error codes
drained fuel
swopped fuel filter
held starter button down for 20s as the normal auto start time is too short.( some errors only show after 3-5s of malfunctioning sensor)
C12 FI came up, this only comes up if ECU does not hear from the CKP sensor for 3-5s, auto start is only 2s long...
Tested sensor as per manual and noticed ground conductivity on the wires so quickly wiped the sensor head ( this is were the first mistake was make )
it must be properly cleaned and not just wiped, my theory is that any metal particles will disrupt the magnetic field, and not just metal particles on the head of the sensor, mine had a lot of metal particles in all the nooks and small gaps
noticed a crack in the magnet (no sure if this was me or if this there all a long)
replaced magnet
reassembled
Bike run fine again.
