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Discussion Starter #1
We've all experienced and read about the jerky on/off throttle of our beloved GSXS. Also, my GSXS-F is very sensitive to throttle position making it hard to maintain a nice even speed. BUT, my biggest issue was the engine running rough at low RPMs, from 0 through to about 3500. Splitting lanes here in southern California means you spend a lot of time in the saddle at speeds of 20-30mph in 2nd and 3rd gear with very little load on the engine. My engine would chug and lug and just plain run rough. I love everything about this bike...except that.

According to BoosterPlug the issue is that bikes run lean at low end to meet emissions. The Booster richens the mixture at low speed, smoothing out the motor.

After the install yesterday I rode it work today, very skeptical. I noticed an immediate smoothness in the motor and throttle control as I rolled through my neighborhood at low speeds. A big smile inside my helmet.

Soon I hit the usual traffic and again smooth motor and throttle control. No motor jerking and it was firing smooth on all cylinders. I will say that its not a 100% fix but a good 98%. The motor still has a very small rough spot at a very low 1000 RPM that goes away once the motor is under more of a load. No biggy, right!

I can't say that the motor has more power anywhere in the powerband but I did jump on it in 2nd gear without any clutch action and the front end came right up. Of course the bike does that anyway..**** I love the power in this bike. Its hard to mentally jump hard on the power when you are still waking up and it's 45 degrees outside.

BoosterPlug makes no claims of horsepower increase. Its all about smoothing out the throttle and engine performance at low RPM.

For $150 its money well spent in my world of lane splitting. I couldn't find a USA dealer that had the plug for our bikes so I ordered it from BoosterPlug. Took 7-10 days to arrive and free shipping. Boosterplug.com (Denmark)

INSTALLATION. Give yourself a good 2 hours to just take your time since you need to figure out how to access lifting the gas tank. I have the F model so its a bit more complicated. In simple terms, you will remove both of the black plastic upper panels that lay flat and hide the radiator area (TIP....removing these panels can scratch your beautiful tank cover. I placed strips on duct tape on the tank cover along the edges where the panels meet the tank cover to protect it).

Then you need to remove most of the bolts that hold on the large side panels so you can flex the panels outward to access the gas tank cover allen screws. I even removed the lower 2 side panel bolts for optimum flex. No need to remove the side panels completely. Then you need to easily remove the black plastic gas tank side covers, the ones where your knees hit. Remove both of the seats to allow clearance for the tank to tilt upward. Next, remove the plastic shroud around the key switch (simply pull upward to remove from rubber grommets) then remove the 2 frontal gas tank bolts and you are in. I used a hammer with a wooden handle to hold the tank up. Don't try to lift the tank too high since there are hoses and wires that will stop that.

The location to plug in the BoosterPlug is super easy to find. Its on the right side at the back upper corner of the airbox. Its obvious because every fitting is specific so just look for the fitting that matches the BoosterPlug. I then routed the temperature probe wire along the right side of the airbox along the top of the frame and zip tied it at the steering head area. Done.
 

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Great to hear that it has worked for you even if there is still a very small minor unsmoothness at just 1000rpm. From everything I have read it seems for a 100% fix it is going to take a Power Commander to fully sort it. Its great to know that the Boosterplug is definitely a recommendation and a good solve of the snatchy throttle issue from what you say.
Thanks for sharing your findings :)
 

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I dont think even a power commander will do it. It was never a 100% cure for any issues like that when I dealt with them.

Reason is, the power commander does give you an option of increasing or decreasing the amount of fuel available, but only if available. At the wrong times, this bike is calling for zero. Like my checking account, 110% of zero is still zero.

So, a product like booster plug sounds as if it takes what you might call a fuel chart. We can list it like a powercommader map chart. Rpm on one side, throttle opening % on the other.

Booster plug will add something like 4-6% fuel everywhere.Thats fine as it will definitely help the tiny spot where the bike runs lean. However, it will also add fuel where its not needed. This wastes fuel, and could end up causing carbon deposits. Especially for us at high altitude.If they had a way to only operate it at the lean spot

I'll see if i can snap a photo of the suggested map for this stock bike as per dynojet. Notice how often it asks for less fuel vs more. I cant fit every range on this display, but this covers the low end needs. Keep in mind, they are power commander and can add fuel anywhere they want to.

If 6% everywhere was a help, they would do this.
 

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Reason is, the power commander does give you an option of increasing or decreasing the amount of fuel available, but only if available. At the wrong times, this bike is calling for zero. Like my checking account, 110% of zero is still zero.
What you're saying makes a lot of sense. I'm no EFI expert, but I'm trying to understand under what circumstances a bike's default map would suggest absolutely no fuel? Is this a common practice?
 

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I'm no EFI expert either, but my understanding is that a lot of modern engines cut the fuel completely on zero throttle. I had my ECU re-flashed and one of the changes is to remove this so that gentle throttle input from closed doesn't result in a surge as the fuel goes from nothing to something. My throttle response is now sharp, but perfectly predictable.
 

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I'm no EFI expert either, but my understanding is that a lot of modern engines cut the fuel completely on zero throttle. I had my ECU re-flashed and one of the changes is to remove this so that gentle throttle input from closed doesn't result in a surge as the fuel goes from nothing to something. My throttle response is now sharp, but perfectly predictable.
Who reflashed your ECU?
 

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No engine will cut the fuel input to zero. Do that and the bike stops. Granted, it might be very, very, lean but fuel is always going in.
 

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We actually will end up, at certain rpm ranges and throttle openings, with zero being injected. On my ninja, it was active (zero, cut off) above @ 3400 rpm, with closed throttle. Of course, once this rpm dropped low enough, it injected again. Still if you accelerated to 5000, dropped to 3500, and opened the throttle again it was a perfect storm and you got a heck of a stumble from the engine. Cars have done this for the last 20 years, too.

Its all in the ecu, and has been tested to know when it can cut to zero, for x time but not allow the engine to die. Engine overrun.The instruction manual for a modern ecu would be @12,000 pages. They will do a lot.

Thats why engine remapping costs 300.00 and not 25.00. and also why many of the diy reflash kits wont go anywhere near fuel cut.

If you could access just that...In a way , thats what Ivans fce did.

I wanted that for my car. If you have a manual transmission car, dont go look for it. Once you do, you'll have found it and it will drive you nuts from then on.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I should have also mentioned 2 other improvements the Booster Plug made. The smoother throttle action resulted in smoother shifting since it improved on/off action. And my bikes idle used to drop RPMs once I placed the bike in neutral. Now the idle is the same both for neutral and in gear. The bike feels smoother everywhere in the powerband.
 

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I should have also mentioned 2 other improvements the Booster Plug made. The smoother throttle action resulted in smoother shifting since it improved on/off action. And my bikes idle used to drop RPMs once I placed the bike in neutral. Now the idle is the same both for neutral and in gear. The bike feels smoother everywhere in the powerband.
Have you noticed that you use 6% more fuel now?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Have you noticed that you use 6% more fuel now?
Hey rod. Booster plug does claim an added 6 to 8 added percent fuel consumption when throttle is open depending on temperature. I don't really watch my fuel though. The added 6 dollars for every 100 dollars spent on fuel is well worth it for the added performance. Added performance always comes at a price. This devise turned a bike I liked into a bike I love.
 

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I would be interested to see what happens , long term. The engine is already quite rich. Adding another 6-8 % on top of that? Im not sure what long term issues that will cause.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I would be interested to see what happens , long term. The engine is already quite rich. Adding another 6-8 % on top of that? Im not sure what long term issues that will cause.
I get that. If I weren't lane splitting (low speeds where the motor runs lean) for an hour every day for work I would think harder before using the BoosterPlug. But having your bike run lean at low R's (for an hour a day) seems to do more harm that it running a little rich at higher speeds. Plus it seems running lean does more harm that running rich.

Ive never seen a report that the BoosterPlug does any harm and its been around for years.
 

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Running rich is not THE specific issue, it contributes to it. That is, engine temperature. Modern engines need to run at...whatever temp. Keeping it too cool leads to carbon deposits, as will running rich. It feeds each other.

Also, the real issue here is your bike is not lean. You can see from the Power Commander map. You have a few lean spots, and way more rich spots. Dynojet had the opportunity to add fuel anywhere they wanted, and for the most part, you'd see the map the bike is supplied with the stokc bike is very rich.

Boosterplug was a product that worked very well before motorcycles started being supplied with modern emissions.After about 2004, the air injection and catalyetic converters mean they no longer needed to send machines out the door that were lean.

The software downloads fast. Its free, and it at least gives you a look at where your at with a baseline for fuel changes on a motorcycle. In 30 seconds you can see your bike is not running lean, overall, and does not call for an "overall" fuel increase.

Power Commander Motorcycle Fuel Injection Tuning Module
notes=

So, the issue becomes you take an engine that is already running rich, then add another 6% fuel to an already rich mix. You can see from dynojets stock map, you'll now be 15%. Specific spot will be 4250 rpm and 20% throttle..perfect cruising speed area. Anywhere around that range, with boosterplug, you'll be 15% too rich, and you wont get by with that for long.
 

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I recall reading that Boosterplug refered overall effect to the closed loop EFI feedback circuit-
The richer fuel Boosterplug creates is therfore clamed to be a short transition period only- the closed circuit then modules back to stock.

Can someone verify this?
 

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This may or may not apply to your bike.

If you take a ninja 1000, the us versions run open loop. The uk version runs closed loop.

This device would likely not work on a closed loop system. As soon as the ecu sensed 6% more fuel, it would throttle back fuel 6%. Open,it would be just fine and do what it was supposed to do.
 
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