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2019 Suzuki GSX-S1000FZ ABS
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Bleeding our brakes (from what I've read) is in pain in our backside?!?!
Wondering if it might be easier to bleed them off the bike, with speed bleeder SB8125 and a piece of wood between the pads?

From what I've read on here it's not much fun bleeding our brakes. For those on here that have tackled the job, would you think it's easier with them on the bike and using a hose and some bleeder system, or what? I know some on here have opted for speed bleeders. (I love them and have them on my 1985 Honda CB650SC Night Hawk and my 1990 ZX750R Ninja) Would you buy the longer bleeder or just the factory length to make it bit easier job?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts and help!!

Happy New Year to all!!

I'm asking because I'm about to tackle this job!! Wish me luck!
 

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2016 f
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If just changing fluid, id just bleed it while topping up the reseviour, but if say putting new brake lines on, id go with the speed bleeder, im dismantling my calipers soon to clean out the pistons seals, as they are abit sticky, i have thought about fitting braided lines , just to improve feel, as im happy with the braking power, changing the pads is completly nessesary as the stock pads sucked so bad
 

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Bleeding our brakes (from what I've read) is in pain in our backside?!?!
Wondering if it might be easier to bleed them off the bike, with speed bleeder SB8125 and a piece of wood between the pads?
Actually, you have hardly any other choice because the bleeders are aiming the wrong way.....and don''t blame Suzuki for that, blame Brembo. Suzuki is only guilty for having chosen them.
 

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If you know what to do , is not a pita . Did the brake lines including bleeding in 3 1/2 hours.
 

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From my experience, the old fashioned way always yields the best results. Put a wrench and hose on the bleeder, hold the brake lever, crack the bleeder screw open, fluid (and bubbles) shoots out, close the screw, pump the brake lever to regain pressure, and repeat until the bubbles stop and new fluid is flowing out. Make sure the reservoir always has fluid in it. Start with the left caliper, move to the right, then bleed the master cylinder.

It's easier if you have a friend operating the lever while you operate the bleeder screw.
 

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2016 f
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I just completed the caliper dismantling to clean the pistons and seals, they were pretty dirty, abit more difficult than older calipers due to monoblock construction , but the thing was indeed a bugger to bleed ( abs)
I used my vacume bleeder, but still dificult to draw the air out of those dam crooked abs pipes...!!!, i got the last by using clamped brake lever overnight, then tapping lines to get last little bubbles out thru m/cyl
 

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Why STahlbus? What makes them so good?
They're a far higher quality than the other speed bleeders out there and once you install them you're never repeatedly loosening and tightening the tapered portion that goes into the caliper that creates the seal. That part stays stationary and there is an actual bleeder insert that you tighten and loosen.

Some of the other bleeders that don't have the above will often start to leak after repeated use.
 

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What color caps did you opt to get?
Know what? I think green but I don't remember for sure. I did not even think about it, just went for the lowest price. Direct From Germany I believe.
they are definitely very well designed and produced parts.
Looked like it, so decided what the heck, try them.
 
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