[vnuh]

Raplaced the pads and couldn't squeeze the piston back so I had to bleed the fluid. End off with a spongy brake. I tried to bleed it twice with little improvement. Read couple forums and decided to try the zip tied over night. People said something about the rubber parts damage with extended high pressure. Anyone has experience with this method?

 

[ChicagoAJ]

You should always push the piston back with the reservoir either cracked open or with the top off, just do it slowly so it doesn't overflow. If you have a mushy brake you have air in the lines, which you most likely know. If you have a MityVac pump you can bleed the whole system without any bubbles in a few minutes (assuming you don't let the reservoir go dry). If you're doing it the long way by cracking the bleeder, topping of the master cylinder, and repeating, it's really easy to get air in the lines if you let the master cylinder go dry. Did you bleed the master cylinder at the bars first and then the calipers or just the calipers?

You just have to keep bleeding until you get the bubbles out. Easiest if you take the calipers off the front wheel and hold them up by the bars (I personally use a bit of wire around a grip to do so), then you're letting the bubbles float up with the current and the force of the fluid to push them out even quicker.

 

[vitogt2]

After you bleed the brakes, zip tie the brake lever as if you were applying the brakes. Leave the lever ziptied over night. This should force any air to the top of the master cylinder and should help you with your mushy lever.

 

[Slower and Slower]

Raplaced the pads and couldn't squeeze the piston back so I had to bleed the fluid. End off with a spongy brake. I tried to bleed it twice with little improvement. Read couple forums and decided to try the zip tied over night. People said something about the rubber parts damage with extended high pressure. Anyone has experience with this method?

It may help if you slightly release the master cyl hose banjo bolt. Sometimes air can get trapped there too, and bleeding won't shift it.
Just loose enough to make it weep (with a catch rag) while you squeeze the lever and release the banjo bolt just like the process down at the wheel end.
Wash down well with water obviously very soon after.


Rob.

 

[DTM74]

You should always push the piston back with the reservoir either cracked open or with the top off, just do it slowly so it doesn't overflow. If you have a mushy brake you have air in the lines, which you most likely know. If you have a MityVac pump you can bleed the whole system without any bubbles in a few minutes (assuming you don't let the reservoir go dry). If you're doing it the long way by cracking the bleeder, topping of the master cylinder, and repeating, it's really easy to get air in the lines if you let the master cylinder go dry. Did you bleed the master cylinder at the bars first and then the calipers or just the calipers?

You just have to keep bleeding until you get the bubbles out. Easiest if you take the calipers off the front wheel and hold them up by the bars (I personally use a bit of wire around a grip to do so), then you're letting the bubbles float up with the current and the force of the fluid to push them out even quicker.

Bumping an old thread but thanks for the advice...was going to to bleed the brakes next weekend and I noticed the bleeders face into the wheel, never seen that before. It would be much easier to take the calipers off. Was thinking, how am I going to get my paws in there with a wrench?, LOL