[ackack]

Just a little heads up for anyone taking the calipers off, when you torque them back up go 2 or 3 less lb-ft than what the Suzuki book says. I religiously torque Suspension and brake parts correctly and today I noticed I've nearly stripped the thread on one of the mounting holes luckily it's still serviceable so keep an eye out in case the Aluminium is of particular poor quality at the bottom of the forks.

 

[KILLJOY]

Good to know thanks

 

[Martin]

I always use a dab of blue thread lock on caliper bolts too.

 

[Gixxus]

Just a little heads up for anyone taking the calipers off, when you torque them back up go 2 or 3 less lb-ft than what the Suzuki book says. I religiously torque Suspension and brake parts correctly and today I noticed I've nearly stripped the thread on one of the mounting holes luckily it's still serviceable so keep an eye out in case the Aluminium is of particular poor quality at the bottom of the forks.

How does one "nearly" strip out a thread? It's either OK or the metal had been pushed past it's yield point. One might want to get out the threaded inserts like a Heli-Coil at this point.

 

[ackack]

How does one "nearly" strip out a thread? It's either OK or the metal had been pushed past it's yield point. One might want to get out the threaded inserts like a Heli-Coil at this point.

As you may have seen I have replated most of the bolts on the bike and with that I could see that one of the bolts had lost all the colour on the thread with some alloy swarf mixed in for good measure. I then cleaned the thread and replated it and blew out some swarf from the hole the bolt now does go in very slightly tight but the thread on the bolt is not getting damaged so I'm guessing I may have damaged a couple of turns of thread at the fork mount
I actually put a very fine smear of copper slip on all 4 bolts just for my own piece of mind with a visual indicator at the top of the bolt so I can see if it's moved.

 

[1kRider]

As you may have seen I have replated most of the bolts on the bike and with that I could see that one of the bolts had lost all the colour on the thread with some alloy swarf mixed in for good measure. I then cleaned the thread and replated it and blew out some swarf from the hole the bolt now does go in very slightly tight but the thread on the bolt is not getting damaged so I'm guessing I may have damaged a couple of turns of thread at the fork mount
I actually put a very fine smear of copper slip on all 4 bolts just for my own piece of mind with a visual indicator at the top of the bolt so I can see if it's moved.

Thanks for the heads up. So it sounds like the bolt is still getting up to torque with no slippage, that would be a close call. Do the caliper bolts have to come out to change the pads? I'm guessing the oil pan drain bolt threads can be stripped easily like on my Bandit's...I'm dealing with one from the previous owner...I ended up helicioling the threads but it still sweats around the gasket but doesn't drip. I'm wary of anyone else doing oil changes on a new bike for that reason.

 

[lee711]

Just a thought dude, if you have applied coppaslip to the caliper mounting bolts and torqued to 2 / 3 lb-ft less than spec, then isn't there a chance that they will still be over torqued and prone to strip due to the lubricating action of the coppaslip. Would it not be a better idea to use a drop of non permanent thread lock then under torque ??

 

[Gixxus]

Almost all lunricants drop torque spec 20-40% of dry.

 

[ackack]

Thanks for the heads up. So it sounds like the bolt is still getting up to torque with no slippage, that would be a close call. Do the caliper bolts have to come out to change the pads? I'm guessing the oil pan drain bolt threads can be stripped easily like on my Bandit's...I'm dealing with one from the previous owner...I ended up helicioling the threads but it still sweats around the gasket but doesn't drip. I'm wary of anyone else doing oil changes on a new bike for that reason.

I haven't really checked but I'd say you need to remove the caliper just to push the pistons back. Bleed nipple looks like it's a bugger to work with, never used an inboard nipple before. With regards to sump plugs I personally have always 'nipped' them up wrist tight always using a new plug and washer whether it's a car or a bike. I change about 6-10 oils per year and I just make sure the mating face is clean and a lick of clean oil around the washer if it's nylon or rubber just to stop it twisting.

Just a thought dude, if you have applied coppaslip to the caliper mounting bolts and torqued to 2 / 3 lb-ft less than spec, then isn't there a chance that they will still be over torqued and prone to strip due to the lubricating action of the coppaslip. Would it not be a better idea to use a drop of non permanent thread lock then under torque ??

I've only started using anti-seize since the strip and it's really for my own piece of mind as the holes the bolts go into are not blind and I didn't want crud and weather getting in there corroding the alloy. And I mark all bolts which I think are important with a pen so I can see if they have moved. Please use whatever you are happy with but mine came with nothing on the bolts out of the crate.