[Kassu]

Didn't know till now about engine alignment.
I will have a look later at the workshop manual and will post here related info.

 

[G-Dub]

I didn't see anything in the manual about alignment in the Engine Assembly Installation section. I guess it could be somewhere else. (One of the frustrations with not having a digital manual - no index and no search function.) There are a bunch of engine mounting bolts, nuts and thrust adjusters. Once you remove the self-locking mounting nuts you're supposed to throw them away (like the shock mount nuts). This is one item I'm choosing not to worry about.

 

[USSENTERNCC1701E]

I didn't see anything in the manual about alignment in the Engine Assembly Installation section. I guess it could be somewhere else. (One of the frustrations with not having a digital manual - no index and no search function.) There are a bunch of engine mounting bolts, nuts and thrust adjusters. Once you remove the self-locking mounting nuts you're supposed to throw them away (like the shock mount nuts). This is one item I'm choosing not to worry about.

Haven't taken a look in my FSM for it yet. But I'd be willing to bet the "thrust adjusters" are what they're talking about.

 

[Kassu]

Took a look in the digital version of the service manual and found same information regarding chain adjustment and/or alignment as it is stated in the owner's manual we all have.
There is not a single word about engine alignment.

 

[G-Dub]

That's what I first thought about thrust adjusters, but it just says to tighten to specified torque.

 

[USSENTERNCC1701E]

That's what I first thought about thrust adjusters, but it just says to tighten to specified torque.

They're probably expecting that if the specified torque isn't aligned, the there's frame damage and the bike isn't safe to ride.

My take on this:

"Thrust angle" in 4-wheel (RWD) alignment is the angle between a line perpendicular to the centerline through the rear axel and the centerline through the vehicle (if that's confusing, Google image search). In a motorcycle, the rear wheel can be adjusted to change this angle. But if the thrust angle isn't the same as the angle between the front and rear sprocket, there's lateral strain on the chain. Ideally, when the two sprockets are aligned, the thrust angle will be 0. If the two sprockets aren't aligned, the engine itself will need to be shifted, or you'll have to deal with a non-zero thrust angle. Assuming the frame is true, and the swingarm, factory torque specs on engine mount points would ensure 0 (or close enough) thrust angle when sprockets are aligned.

So, that's really the only thing I could guess they mean when they say "thrust adjusters." If you need to change it beyond factory spec, I don't think you'll be able to get any significant accuracy without some sort of laser alignment rig. Honestly, I'd say unless you've gone down on the bike, leave it stock, adjust by the swingarm markings, and call it good. If you have gone down, chose wheel/thrust or sprockets. Either being off will have negative drivability impacts, and increased wear (tire vs chain). Personally, I'd go with risking increased tire wear over chain. I've had a chain break and drive through my crank case, it's a bad day. Tires are easy to inspect and don't have a sudden catastrophic failure mode from lateral strain.

 

[Supercharger]

Sorry guys, i also saw something about the thrust adjusters and I figured they were well.....adjusters. Sounds like they aren't.

My bad.

 

[Gonzohead]

I just checked my chain using the Profi Cat and it works well on the bottom run, My chain seems to be in alignment from the factory (I haven't adjusted my chain tension yet).

I got a Profi Cat yesterday and I’m so dissapointed!
1) The thread fitting between the battery holder (being the switch) and the body is very loose and the thread in the body seems to be sort of painted. When turned on the laser would flicker on and off as I turned the battery holder/switch. After mucking around with it for a bit, I got a small screw driver and scored the thread in the body several times. Now that the threads have a sort of clean contact the laser stays on.
2) The laser is so dull it only illuminates the first 2-3 links! It is nothing like there picture in which it illuminates the full length of the chain. And this was in fairly low lighting conditions. To see the laser I cut a piece of cardboard and placed it on top of the chain at the front on which the laser could be seen.
Very far from happy at the moment 👎☹
Gonna call them up and see what they say.

 

[mike d]

I got a Profi Cat yesterday and I’m so dissapointed!
1) The thread fitting between the battery holder (being the switch) and the body is very loose and the thread in the body seems to be sort of painted. When turned on the laser would flicker on and off as I turned the battery holder/switch. After mucking around with it for a bit, I got a small screw driver and scored the thread in the body several times. Now that the threads have a sort of clean contact the laser stays on.
2) The laser is so dull it only illuminates the first 2-3 links! It is nothing like there picture in which it illuminates the full length of the chain. And this was in fairly low lighting conditions. To see the laser I cut a piece of cardboard and placed it on top of the chain at the front on which the laser could be seen.
Very far from happy at the moment 👎☹
Gonna call them up and see what they say.

Wow! Sorry about that. I know when I did a search for them it looked like there were many permutations with different body shapes, etc.. Mine works great and even in daylight is visible for the entire length of chain. I guess I won't recommend that anymore. Sorry.

 

[Gonzohead]

Wow! Sorry about that. I know when I did a search for them it looked like there were many permutations with different body shapes, etc.. Mine works great and even in daylight is visible for the entire length of chain. I guess I won't recommend that anymore. Sorry.

When I telephone the seller he said that he had had a few returned with the same flickering problem. He went on to say they made some changes to keep the cost down as they were losing out to the cheaper ones on the market - which he claimed weren't quite as accurate. He was quite good in that he said to send it back and that he would send out another one and he'd test it before sending. Didn't mention how dull it was but I'm gonna send it back. See what happens.