Good access to the spark plugs, they are easy to remove. Spark plugs box,swivel joint and long extention
Changing Spark Plugs
Hey guys
I've got my 7500 mile service coming up. As I haven't changed the spark plugs on it before, I'm after some info from someone who's done it before so I know which tools to get to make sure I can do it in one bash without having to find out I need another tool.
I gather the socket needed is a one of these in 16mm variant
Do I need an extension bar for the socket or a swivel bar? If so, what length? Hopefully I can just bosh a torque wrench on the end of the socket but I don't think I can expect to be so lucky!
Cheers
I've got my 7500 mile service coming up. As I haven't changed the spark plugs on it before, I'm after some info from someone who's done it before so I know which tools to get to make sure I can do it in one bash without having to find out I need another tool.
I gather the socket needed is a one of these in 16mm variant
Do I need an extension bar for the socket or a swivel bar? If so, what length? Hopefully I can just bosh a torque wrench on the end of the socket but I don't think I can expect to be so lucky!
Cheers
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
How long does the extension need to be? 3"? Is there space for the wrench on the end of the extension? So, socket, extension, wrench
Your bike came from the factory with iridium plugs. Does the service schedule recommend replacing at 7500 miles?
It does. Very surprised to see it myself.
The spark plugs themselves are simple and straight forward, getting to them is not, especially on the F. You need to remove the front fairing to get the gas tank up and pull the airbox.
Incidentally, the ECU is attached to the airbox, so you have to disconnect the ECU to get to the spark plugs. I'm so used to my Jeep, plugs are just right there, it's a half hour job including the trip to the parts store. This bike was an afternoon project. I won't be swapping plugs again until I can tell I need to, service intervals be damned.
Incidentally, the ECU is attached to the airbox, so you have to disconnect the ECU to get to the spark plugs. I'm so used to my Jeep, plugs are just right there, it's a half hour job including the trip to the parts store. This bike was an afternoon project. I won't be swapping plugs again until I can tell I need to, service intervals be damned.
Photo of plugs at 15K
It's not that hard at all, and also doesn't hurt to partially disconnect the side fairings a bit so the center is easier.
have fun!
(always fun to learn new bikes)
ps: the used one on the right can be noticed a bit of loss of thickness at the tip of the electrode.
Eyp, the manual for the US states 7500 miles. Have change them at around 15 K (am at 54K without problems) every time, and that's as far as i go.It does. Very surprised to see it myself.
It's not that hard at all, and also doesn't hurt to partially disconnect the side fairings a bit so the center is easier.
have fun!
(always fun to learn new bikes)ps: the used one on the right can be noticed a bit of loss of thickness at the tip of the electrode.
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Thanks man, what do you use to get the plugs out and in? Socket and extension bar? If you do, what size extension bar do we need?
I'm doing an oil change at the same time (I always change the filter, only takes a few mins more) so the fairing panels will be off anyway.
I'm doing an oil change at the same time (I always change the filter, only takes a few mins more) so the fairing panels will be off anyway.
I changed mine a while back. I totally removed the fuel tank to make it easier. I followed the shop manual instructions. I just have a good basic mechanics tool set and the only thing I did not have (but a neighbor did!) is a thin metal rod with a magnet on the end. I needed this because my spark plug socket would not hold the plug to pull it out. And they are down in there quite deep. The magnet on a stick worked wonderfully.
Get a shop manual if you don't have one!
Get a shop manual if you don't have one!
The extension is 1/4" drive 6" (inches) long, the socket is 3/8" drive MAGNETIC 2 1/2" (plug size is 5/8") long, and a swivel from 1/4" drive to 3/8 drive.Thanks man, what do you use to get the plugs out and in? Socket and extension bar? If you do, what size extension bar do we need?
I'm doing an oil change at the same time (I always change the filter, only takes a few mins more) so the fairing panels will be off anyway.
Also use a small torque wrench (it's worth it because besides being the correct way) because of the angle.
Fairing removal on this bike is quite simple, and fairly easy (also remove the tank, because it does not tilt back very much).
Best regards
Hey Rusty,I changed mine a while back. I totally removed the fuel tank to make it easier. I followed the shop manual instructions. I just have a good basic mechanics tool set and the only thing I did not have (but a neighbor did!) is a thin metal rod with a magnet on the end. I needed this because my spark plug socket would not hold the plug to pull it out. And they are down in there quite deep. The magnet on a stick worked wonderfully.
Get a shop manual if you don't have one!
Yep totally agree, shop manual is a must (any bike one owns).
A magnetic socket works great (motorcycle shops don't usually have them, but Auto parts stores usually have them).
You are right a magnet is a must (for my self also).
It does, and it's ridiculous. Those plugs are good for 50,000 miles easily.Your bike came from the factory with iridium plugs. Does the service schedule recommend replacing at 7500 miles?
does anyone know how to get the air box off so i can access the plug?
also, the proper spark plug gap?
also, the proper spark plug gap?
Seen the price of these things. More like they're pushing to sell something jacked up in price you really do not need at 7500 miles. I have changed them on a race bike but they always looked just as good as what I took out. I'll hold off on the GSX and I am at 7300 miles.
Iridium plugs are pre-gapped, aren’t they?
I think so I always checked them with the wire feeler gauge and mine were always spot on.Iridium plugs are pre-gapped, aren’t they?
A piece of fuel hose works well for pulling plugs.I changed mine a while back. I totally removed the fuel tank to make it easier. I followed the shop manual instructions. I just have a good basic mechanics tool set and the only thing I did not have (but a neighbor did!) is a thin metal rod with a magnet on the end. I needed this because my spark plug socket would not hold the plug to pull it out. And they are down in there quite deep. The magnet on a stick worked wonderfully.
Get a shop manual if you don't have one!
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
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