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Don't believe it is. The other was Paul Nebbs. As far as I know, this guy is legit and the headers are Lextek or something. Xp8c is another system he sells, I think. Some on here have them and I've heard only good things about them.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Don't believe it is. The other was Paul Nebbs. As far as I know, this guy is legit and the headers are Lextek or something. Xp8c is another system he sells, I think. Some on here have them and I've heard only good things about them.
Great thanks. I may give these headers a try along with Rapido’s titanium LV-10. Just hoping the headers are decent as you pay for what you get
 

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No it's definitely not. This lad is in England he is part of an accessory company based in England. Lextek. Theres been very good feedback from people who have bought this system on the uk based gsx-s forum pages..its very very similar to the arrows headers. They also do a great range of cans to fit it as well. They post around the world.
 

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Thanks for the reply. After more research I decided to go with them. Seems like a stellar deal for good quality headers. Never heard of LexTek down in Canada but will be exciting to fit these headers on!
 

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Thanks for the reply. After more research I decided to go with them. Seems like a stellar deal for good quality headers. Never heard of LexTek down in Canada but will be exciting to fit these headers on!
I've gone with them, so far very happy. Certainly so for the price. They fit pretty well, and sound great with my Yoshi Alpha slip on.

I installed them and test rode it without changing my fueling, and noticed a little more oomph in the mid range. I didn't try much at top end.

I have installed the Woolwich racing Flash kit and log box, and definitely have noticeably more power all the way through the range(haven't used the autotune feature just yet, I've roughed it in, and that's my next step). I managed to spin the wheel under hard throttle in 2nd, where before it'd just pull a power wheelie.... Hopefully going to manage to get to a dyno, likely next season, to see proper numbers. (Canada as well...)


Anyways. All this to say I'm definitely happy with the purchase. They give better power than stock, better noise than stock, and cost less than every other brand, but still feel pretty quality. I'm sure though, m4 is still probably among the best for this bike, but this is without a doubt a worthwhile more budget friendly header set, if you want an upgrade from OEM.
 

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And Blaw, I hope you will be sending your ECU out for a flash to fully gain the benefits of your new headers!
 

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+1 on what Rapido said...get that baby tuned. It's amazing what a little extra hp and torque will do. The other day I was hitting it pretty hard on a back road and didn't even realize I was floating the front wheel until it touched down at about 80mph and jerked my handlebars.

Blaw, you're gonna love your headers and tune!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've gone with them, so far very happy. Certainly so for the price. They fit pretty well, and sound great with my Yoshi Alpha slip on.

I installed them and test rode it without changing my fueling, and noticed a little more oomph in the mid range. I didn't try much at top end.

I have installed the Woolwich racing Flash kit and log box, and definitely have noticeably more power all the way through the range(haven't used the autotune feature just yet, I've roughed it in, and that's my next step). I managed to spin the wheel under hard throttle in 2nd, where before it'd just pull a power wheelie.... Hopefully going to manage to get to a dyno, likely next season, to see proper numbers. (Canada as well...)


Anyways. All this to say I'm definitely happy with the purchase. They give better power than stock, better noise than stock, and cost less than every other brand, but still feel pretty quality. I'm sure though, m4 is still probably among the best for this bike, but this is without a doubt a worthwhile more budget friendly header set, if you want an upgrade from OEM.
Awesome review. Thanks so much for the information. How did you find the install? Did you end up ordering the servo buddy as well?

I am planning to install PCV next season. Not sure if I should go with PCV and dyno or ECU flash. To be honest I’m not crazy mechanically inclined. Is removing the ECU a simple job? Thanks

Brian
 

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Thanks Reagenn and Rapido for the advice! I have been thinking about sending the ECU off. I may hold off until next season and simply get the headers and LV-10 slip on installed.

I’ll give updates with the install. Hoping the header should come with a step by step guide
 

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Awesome review. Thanks so much for the information. How did you find the install? Did you end up ordering the servo buddy as well?

I am planning to install PCV next season. Not sure if I should go with PCV and dyno or ECU flash. To be honest I’m not crazy mechanically inclined. Is removing the ECU a simple job? Thanks

Brian
Super easy to access/remove the ECU! Remove the plastic tank and side panels, the seat, and lift the tank and it's right there on top of the air box. I remember there are threads with pics somewhere here to do so.

Blaw, I cannot stress enough, if you are looking to optimize the performance (power and acceleration) of your bike (which I assume you are by purchasing full headers) it is imperative to send your ECU to Dano's Performance for a flash. It will completely transform your bike from a choked-out emission compliant run of the mill street bike to the "beast"! that it was designed to be.
 

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Awesome review. Thanks so much for the information. How did you find the install? Did you end up ordering the servo buddy as well?

I am planning to install PCV next season. Not sure if I should go with PCV and dyno or ECU flash. To be honest I’m not crazy mechanically inclined. Is removing the ECU a simple job? Thanks

Brian
The install was pretty straightforward. They didn't come with instructions, but I just went along with instructions from the Arrow headers, from a pdf file from the Arrow website. Mostly to make sure I didn't miss removing any part that would make life easier, and to help keep track of what I did take off. All in it took a couple of hours, start to finish for just the headers and slip on.

I didn't bother going with a servo buddy, as my intention was to have the ecu flashed, and disabling the exhaust servo that way. (I ended up buying the Woolich bike harness, logbox/autotune, to be able to dyno it locally eventually as well) Woolich btw, is an awesome company to buy from, for us Canadians!

For the interim, for me, I installed a little metal semicircular plate, that installs on the servo, in place of the cable, that tricks the motor and ecu into thinking the exhaust valve is still active. This metal piece does come with the exhaust, and this entire step is included in the Arrow exhaust instructions. (now that I have the ecu flashed, I've completely removed the servo motor, essentially being the same thing as removing it and using the servo buddy, I just did it ecu side).

As rapido said, removing the ecu is easy. Lift the tank up, as though you're going to change the air filter, except the ecu sits atop the air box.

A PCV with autotune would do a good job for you, but I feel, from the feedback from the forum members, you cannot go wrong with sending the ecu in for Danos to flash. I believe that would be the cheaper option as well. The absolute best but also most expensive is, if you have a bike tuner or dyno near you, Woolich bike harness kit, which allows the most accurate customisation for your set up.

Lastly though, with a flash tune or really any full header swap, and with also richening the air- fuel mixture up, I'd highly recommend doing the PAIR block off mod. The PAIR helps the cat burn excess fuel, but it will pop, and backfire, on throttle roll off a lot, on decatted bikes.... I'm having a bit of a brain fart here, but I'm fairly sure the PAIR valves are under the air box. I know I've seen a walkthrough somewhere on the forum, but am struggling to find it! Sorry!

Hope the answers/recommendations help a little! Sorry if it's a little rambly!
 

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Don't have to remove the airbox to block the Pair valve unless you're doing Block-off plates. You can just plug the tube on the airbox itself, which is a easy job.

I personally did the Block-off plates, but that was just so I could take the Pair valve apparatus completely off.
 

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Anyone do a Danos flash on a bike with stock headers and cat? Worth it or not?
 
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