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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there a easier way to disconnect the cables from the exhaust valve when removing the header? And get the cables back on with the valve in the right position?

The procedure in the service manual requires a special tool to trigger it to the adjustment position and then a way to measure the resistance and get it adjusted back to where it is supposed to be.
 

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You don't have to disturb the adjustment to remove it. Remove the bracket nut first, then remove the cables from the cable cam. As long as you don't mess with the adjusters, which you don't need to touch, you should have no issues. Take a pic before you remove anything. FP, you have the Woolich software. You have no worries. Just disable it and set it to be always open. That valve is doing nothing for performance on a liter bike, its in there for sound and speed control. If you disable it the exhaust sounds much so better on start and warm up with the valve open, slightly louder and much throatier. You can try it before removing your exhaust. If you notice a difference in low end power you can put it back to stock, but there won't be any difference. Then you can send it to the powder coater with confidence.

Have you guys noticed that auto makers do no put valves in the exhaust piping? ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It would be interesting to talk to the factory engineers and get straight from them the reasearch that is behind the design.

Just as the engine uses secondary throttle valves that open at a certain rpm I'm guessing the exhaust valve goes full open around the same time.

Probably a way to give a little more low end at lower rpms and still meet emissions targets.
I have seen the videos Moore Mafia puts out where after tuning there are gains across the powerband with a full aftermarket exhaust, not just at upper rpms.

I plan on keeping the exhaust valve, 02 sensor and carefully slowly cutting the cat in half at the 95mm mark with a cut off wheel so I can still use the front half of the cat when installing a mid pipe. (we used to use a diamond tipped blade at work to slowly cut through something and leave the halves perfect)

Thanks for the info on disconnecting the cables without changing the adjustment when removing the headers. I have new header gaskets coming so have a week to get the mods done before they get here.

EPA has already stopped the diesel tuners and in some states like NJ its illegal to sell or trade in your diesel truck without all the original emmisions equipment in place. Dealers wont take it as a trade in because they have to restore to OEM before they can sell it.

Its just a matter of time before Moore Mafia and other tuners get the attention drawn to them. Get it while you can. Save your stock parts.
 

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So much truth right here.......I know a couple guys personally, that the EPA is squeezing, because of tuning
I remember the 1970's and 1980's as being particularly polluted with acid and leaded fuel, maybe not so much in the suburbs where we occasionally lived but rather in the metro areas that were just filthy with gas and diesel pollution.

Even DonutMedia likes catalytic converters...
 
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