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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just changed my can to a race can. No difference at all in volume. Even with the can not fitted to the collector box it is still quite. The restriction in the sound/exhaust is in the collector box which goes all the way into the down pipes from the engine. The only way to get a race sound exhaust is to get rid of the collector box which means a whole new system form the front pipes back. Very disappointed. If your thinking of changing your exhaust can to a race one, do not waste your money, the sound will be no different !!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Arrow headers which can fit the original can too. The original can has nothing in it so would sound like a race can ! I would like to know what happens to the wiring which goes into the standard collector box at the moment if you did replace the pipes and collector with the Arrow headers part number 71628MI
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Hang on, some of the different make cans sound ok on the Youtube postings...What one have you got...?
I don't know how the youtube ones sound so loud for, they must have the cat box removed or cat smashed out !! Take off your original can for proof and you will see what I mean. It makes no difference with the end can on or off. Its strange. Really pis--d me off having wasted money on a straight through race can. Mines a GPR. Baffles and DB killer out !
 

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I hope there will be a full system with a high flow cat. Never seems happen though, never a street legal option for full systems on bikes with cats :(
 

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I think Leenineplus has a good point- the last section (slip on) probably only does a really small amount of silencing and has more to do with tone, as the cat and under body exhaust is the main silencer-
These lower units have 2-3 changes of direction internally for silencing in various baffle sections.

One thing I noticed looking into our standard exhaust outlet that it is almost straight though but the final outlet pipe has an internal downward facing bend to act as a bit of a final "dB killer".
The box itself has the usual perf inside but if someone was interested in experimenting-- some volume gain might be cheaply available by either multiple drilling holes (with a long drill) through back face of the bend. Another option could be to use a Demel tool with a flex shaft and cutting disc and remove the whole internal bend? Would need slitting first, twisting as you go the be able to pull it out.
 

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The best scenario is to buy an EEC approved exhaust with removable DB killer. US/ and EU spec exhaust are different as far as i know and you can buy exhaust like Yoshimura with seal units.

If your going to go down the line of a slip on the Yoshimura site advises the Alpha series in the US and the R-11.

For example if you follow this link you will see the power chart (on the right) for the R-11 for the Japanese (JMCA approved) market with no removable db killer Yoshimura product site : GSX-S1000/F - SLIP-ON R-11 SINGLE EXIT : JMCA APPROVED

And here is exactly the same exhaust but for the European market Yoshimura product site : GSX-S1000/F - SLIP-ON R-11 SINGLE EXIT : EEC APPROVED

on a side note i wonder if the exhaust valve system in the mid section of the exhaust would keep everything quiet lower down the rev range?
 

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The exhaust valve will definitely be effecting the sound. I removed all of that on my BKing and made a big difference.

Full system is the way to go I think :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If you fit the arrow headers at £479 it obviously removes all the original system and the cat which Im not bothered about. What do you do with the wires that go into the original exhaust valve that will not be there?
 

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I don't know if it works the same, but i had an exhaust flapper valve on the Tuono V4, the default position was open and this was held via a spring. The valve was opened and closed via actuator controlled cables, thus once the cables were disconnected the valve reverted to the open position, the cables were either disconnected and tucked away or removed completely, could be similar for this bike. ??
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I wonder if the flapper stays in an open position the exhaust will sound a little more race like. What would be the simplest way to get the flapper to stay open in the exhaust and to then disable or disconnect the system or cables so it could not close again.
 

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Hi David, how would it put the valve in an open state before this went on? Have you used and fitted these on bikes?
This plugs in at the servo end, so as to bypass the sensor when you remove all the flapper gubbins otherwise it will throw an FI error code on the dash. It has no effect or control on the flapper itself. ( functions similar to an O2 sensor eliminator ) It tricks the ECU into thinking the exhaust flapper is still connected.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
This plugs in at the servo end, so as to bypass the sensor when you remove all the flapper gubbins otherwise it will throw an FI error code on the dash. It has no effect or control on the flapper itself. ( functions similar to an O2 sensor eliminator ) It tricks the ECU into thinking the exhaust flapper is still connected.


So lee711, if I just remove the cables from the exhaust valve thingy! I cable tie it somewhere that will leave the flapper automatically in the open position permanently? Or I can just remove the lot and buy the electronic bypass unit ? :nerd:
 

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So lee711, if I just remove the cables from the exhaust valve thingy! I cable tie it somewhere that will leave the flapper automatically in the open position permanently? Or I can just remove the lot and buy the electronic bypass unit ? :nerd:
If the set up is the same as it was on my old Tuono V4, then yes. If you leave the mechanism in place and just disconnect the cables ( the flapper should be in the default position of open ) then the servo still moves, the bike still thinks everything is in place and so no error code on the dash. If you remove the whole mechanism, then the you will need to plug in the bypass unit into the open ended plug that would have plugged into the servo motor, to trick the ECU. :) ( on my old bike I just disconnected the cables and left everything in place, neat and tidy ) ;)
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ive taken the cables off the exhaust flapper at the exhaust end. Now has an Error F1 on the dash. It sounds louder but not brilliantly loud.


Looks like an investment in one of those electronic control boxes. Ahhhhh
 
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