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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just changed my oil but I forgot to buy a new crush washer so I just reused the one that was on the plug. Do you think everything will be ok? The manual says to tighten it to 16.5 lb/ft but that didn't seem like much so I tightened it to 20. I took it for a ride and there are no leaks so everything seems fine so far...
 

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I just changed my oil but I forgot to buy a new crush washer so I just reused the one that was on the plug. Do you think everything will be ok? The manual says to tighten it to 16.5 lb/ft but that didn't seem like much so I tightened it to 20. I took it for a ride and there are no leaks so everything seems fine so far...
I know you should but I always forget to get one and I never have and I have never had a leak
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys that's reassuring to hear.

I just went to the suzuki dealer and bought a crush washer so next time I will change it. It cost $2. The suzuki guys refer to it as a gasket.
 

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for decades I re used the same one . Then went I went to buy new filters from a suzuki dealer near where i was working he taped one on top of the pack . He laughed when i asked him what it was , as uncrushed they don't look anything like a washer .
So now i use a new one each time , but for some bikes used the same one for 10 or more years.......
 

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You sure do like to over-tighten things don't you, CaptainSlow? First your oil filter, now your drain plug.

Hopefully we don't see a "why is my oil pan cracked/stripped" thread in the near future...
 

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IMHO don't over tighten the sump plug. If you strip the thread it's a pain in the ass to get it re-threaded. Same with the oil filter, it doesn't need to be on super tights as the gaskets/o-rings SEAL it all in.
 

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My dealer has 2 types of crush washers, a gold and a silver coloured one.
I use the silver one which is flatter, the other one is u shaped from the side.
They are good for 2 uses, more than that they start to lock onto the sump plug.
 

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IMHO don't over tighten the sump plug. If you strip the thread it's a pain in the ass to get it re-threaded. Same with the oil filter, it doesn't need to be on super tights as the gaskets/o-rings SEAL it all in.
New oil pan and gasket will run you $150, I wouldn't trust a re-threaded sump plug. As for the drain plug, I always thread it to the crush washer by hand and snug it up until the washer is flat. Maybe another turn after finger tight. Never any leaks that way, torque specs on drain plugs are ridiculous.
 

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Sump plug here will run you around the $400 mark. Rethreading it will run you $50. You do the maths on what most people will do ;)

Me personally? don't strip the thing by overtightening in the first place! :D
 

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I just changed my oil but I forgot to buy a new crush washer so I just reused the one that was on the plug. Do you think everything will be ok? The manual says to tighten it to 16.5 lb/ft but that didn't seem like much so I tightened it to 20. I took it for a ride and there are no leaks so everything seems fine so far...
I believe this is recommended for all bikes when changing oil. Whether it is truly necessary would depend on A. How worn out the washer actually is, B. Whether you have a new one at time of changing oil and, C. If you care for the possibility of the occasional leak
 

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Sump plug here will run you around the $400 mark. Rethreading it will run you $50. You do the maths on what most people will do ;)

Me personally? don't strip the thing by overtightening in the first place! :D
$400 for which bike? The GSX-S1000(F) for gasket and oil pan is $150 from PartShark.com...

:confused:
 

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$400 for which bike? The GSX-S1000(F) for gasket and oil pan is $150 from PartShark.com...

:confused:
You forget the Australian Tax that everything has in this country mate... I haven't looked at getting a new sump from here, but literally everything is 2x the cost+more.
 

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You forget the Australian Tax that everything has in this country mate... I haven't looked at getting a new sump from here, but literally everything is 2x the cost+more.
Oh, I gotcha. No location next to your profile details so I didn't know.
 

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Oh, I gotcha. No location next to your profile details so I didn't know.
Yeah sorry mate. all good! :)

To give you an example. Sato racing rearsets. 590 on website, unfortunately they don't ship overseas and they recommend talking to distributor locally.

Gave them a call, they wanted 1200 for them.......

RIDICULOUS!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I thought the overtightening was necessary to compensate for not using a new crush washer.

It's my understanding those washers create a seal by getting crushed so if you reuse it you would need to tighten it slightly harder to make sure it won't leak. Of course the safest thing to do is just use a new washer, then you can tighten it exactly to spec and not worry.

On my car I change the oil by pumping it out through the dip stick, no worrying about the drain plug when you do it that way.
 

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I will change the engine oil next week-end. So I've bought the oil (Motul 7100 4T 10w40), the oil filter (HiFlo 138 RC) and two washers (PN [URL="http://www.cmsnl.com/products/09168-14004-gasket138x188x48_0916814002/#.WAOTOdR95pg"]0916814002[/URL] & PN 0916814004). They say the first one replaced the last one. I don't understand why they replaced the last one with the first one. They look different, but they have the same dimensions and the same shape when they are fitted.

I have always replaced these washers when changing the oil. They are cheap and is better to use a new one every time, at least for your own peace of mind.
 
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