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On my second GSXS1000F and other than a few bolt on accessories it is still stock.

My first GSXS was a 2016 bike, it had a DeCat, keeping the exhaust valve, K&N filter and woolwich flash which added 7hp (151 RWHP & 80 ft lbs) with the limiter reset to 12.2k. It was faster but had a strange flutter between 2-3000rpm and lost most of its engine braking. Rode it for 17k miles so it was

I planned to follow suit with my 2019 bike and purchased a set of Lextec Headers to use with the stock tailpipe, planning to go for another woolwich tune but find myself enjoying the bike stock as it has a manageable throttle, excellent economy and good engine braking. After covering a few miles on this bike I have mostly forgotten how the tuned bike felt, memories of the lumpy spot, 12.2k limit and lack of braking remain. My riding is a mix of commuting, fun and touring with the throttle on the stop probably less than 1% of the time. To be honest it has more than enough performance for me as, if I wanted to race GSXR's I would have bought one or an M pack 1000RR.

Looking for honest not macho feedback from those who have ECU tuned their bikes to see if it is worth the effort or introduced other issues. Hard to admit faults after 'investing' in mods I know, but rarely do we gain something for nothing.
 

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If you are happy with how the bike performs with the mods I would say to leave it.
However if you feel the map can be improved with the mods go for it. Would say if your tuner had a pre made map already no Dano is needed. Suggest calling up Danos performance. Very nice guy who will take the time to discuss. Had my stock bike done by him and could not be happier. About $200 bucks. Send him the ecu and get it back a few days later.
I did not need more power and just wanted things smoothed out. All better now and as a bonus got more power too.
 

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On my second GSXS1000F and other than a few bolt on accessories it is still stock. <SNIPPED STUFF>...I find myself enjoying the bike stock as it has a manageable throttle, excellent economy and good engine braking. <SNIPPED STUFF> To be honest it has more than enough performance for me as, if I wanted to race GSXR's I would have bought one or an M pack 1000RR.<SNIPPED STUFF>.
Hey @Simon W I think you answered your own question, and wisely, too. The GSX-S1000 is NOT a race bike. It's a streetbike. And it is geared and tuned for that environment. As you said, it has more than enough power for street riding fun and when you start modifying and messing with things, there is always a price to pay in one form or another. Since you are happy with the throttle response, fuel economy, and engine braking 'as is', I'd just leave it alone and ride it. Save your money for a new rear shock, perhaps...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hey @Simon W I think you answered your own question, and wisely, too. The GSX-S1000 is NOT a race bike. It's a streetbike. And it is geared and tuned for that environment. As you said, it has more than enough power for street riding fun and when you start modifying and messing with things, there is always a price to pay in one form or another. Since you are happy with the throttle response, fuel economy, and engine braking 'as is', I'd just leave it alone and ride it. Save your money for a new rear shock, perhaps...
Thanks for the response, that is how I am feeling but there is an itch that feels the need to be scratched. More power, less weight always sounds good :) the only part of the GSXS I really dislike is the huge mid muffler and removal of this is the only mod I would really like, trouble is, one change leads to the next so a decat and remap go together! Ref suspension, spent a lot of time adjusting the stock suspension front and rear and I find it okay with my considerable mass on board. Have a Nitron R2 with preload adjuster waiting in the wings for fitment too, just enjoying bike as stock.
 

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I know what you are conveying about engine braking. I have a 2020. Ive flashed it 4 times I think. As soon as I shut of decel fuel cut, there went the engine braking. What your tuner should have done was closed the STP's more aggressively in the first cell. This is near closed throttle and higher RPM's. OEM also uses aggressive adv timing in the same region. Engine braking is much easier to tune when you have Secondary Throttle Plates (STP) tables for both acceleration and deceleration. We don't on this bike...or what Woolich exposes.

Its hard to say if most of these tuners actually take the time or fully understand what they are looking at and how these tables are derived. The goal when re-calibrating is NOT to re-invent the wheel but to restore the what the OEM's SE's extracted because of there constraints. We are not smarter than the SE's and EE's that designed this software. Well, than most would admit.

Software packages that we buy to re-flash only expose a SMALL SMALL amount of data that's actually stored and ran on the ECU. There are very few people that truly understand what goes on except a guy like the owner of Woolich or a guy like Don Guel. He (Don) does both the ECU bin code extraction and bike tuning.

Attached is my current table and its still not enough braking. Its better though. Getting back on throttle in a hard turn doesn't upset the bike near as much. I haven't touched fueling yet. I just received my wideband. Next weekend Ill get it all connected and start logging. Then, I can look at those common throttle regions and adjust what needs to be. It takes time, logging, adjusting, riding...repeat.

There is NO way you can get a perfect cal with just one dyno session. It takes time and lots of patience....
 

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I installed Dale Walker's Holeshot Supertuning package with a full Arrow exhaust. Dale has a piggyback system similar to a Dyno tune, however he did close to 200 pulls on his own bike when developing the map. My bike is powerful and smooth in all gears and engine braking is still present. Very happy with it and would recommend to anyone looking for an alternative to a flash.
 

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On my second GSXS1000F and other than a few bolt on accessories it is still stock.

My first GSXS was a 2016 bike, it had a DeCat, keeping the exhaust valve, K&N filter and woolwich flash which added 7hp (151 RWHP & 80 ft lbs) with the limiter reset to 12.2k. It was faster but had a strange flutter between 2-3000rpm and lost most of its engine braking. Rode it for 17k miles so it was

I planned to follow suit with my 2019 bike and purchased a set of Lextec Headers to use with the stock tailpipe, planning to go for another woolwich tune but find myself enjoying the bike stock as it has a manageable throttle, excellent economy and good engine braking. After covering a few miles on this bike I have mostly forgotten how the tuned bike felt, memories of the lumpy spot, 12.2k limit and lack of braking remain. My riding is a mix of commuting, fun and touring with the throttle on the stop probably less than 1% of the time. To be honest it has more than enough performance for me as, if I wanted to race GSXR's I would have bought one or an M pack 1000RR.

Looking for honest not macho feedback from those who have ECU tuned their bikes to see if it is worth the effort or introduced other issues. Hard to admit faults after 'investing' in mods I know, but rarely do we gain something for nothing.
Maybe an auto tuner setup would be a good alternative.
 

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Keep in mind that "dyno tune" may not mean what you think it does depending on which tuner you are talking to.

Most of the time you take your bike to get dyno tuned they do several full throttle pulls and adjust the fuel and maybe timing to get the most power and a good afr graph, that's great for full throttle, but leaves the entire rest of the fuel map un-tuned and running on the stock values.

A good comprehensive tune would take a great deal of time making sure the fueling is correct throughout the entire fuel map while also adjusting timing, secondary throttle plates, etc... to make sure the on-off throttle response is not jerky and the fueling is correct no mater what throttle position/rpm the bike is running at.

Make sure you know what you're getting when you ask for a dyno tune and/or an ECU flash for that matter.
 
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The people who are doing mine are on youtube, so you can actually see and hear them doing dyno work on bikes.
 

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Thanks for the response, that is how I am feeling but there is an itch that feels the need to be scratched. More power, less weight always sounds good :) the only part of the GSXS I really dislike is the huge mid muffler and removal of this is the only mod I would really like, trouble is, one change leads to the next so a decat and remap go together! Ref suspension, spent a lot of time adjusting the stock suspension front and rear and I find it okay with my considerable mass on board. Have a Nitron R2 with preload adjuster waiting in the wings for fitment too, just enjoying bike as stock.
You can remove the turkey tray silencer with a link pipe and the bike will run exactly the same, its what I did, its just a bit louder, I am having a remap to try and cure the jerky 2-4000 running which is mostly town riding powerband.
 

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Had the remap (Woolich) done at JHS near Bristol and the bike is running a lot smoother in town traffic now its much better. The AFR chart at the bottom tells the story, once remapped it keeps a clean straight line from 3000rpm way through.
001.jpg
002.jpg
 

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Nice, that AFR does look good across the board. I'm surprised that the stock ECU map produced an AFR that rich, most bikes seem to be on the lean side from the factory. I would normally attribute jerkyness to a too lean fueling condition, not too rich. But I see it is really lean at 3K, which makes sense if that is where most of the jerkyness was.
 

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Great results, I have seen and heard good things about JHS. I bet the smoothness is improved, the afr looks more stable at the beginning.
The graph shows the bike from stock is not lean as people keep saying, JHS have actually removed fuel across the whole rev range.

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Nice, that AFR does look good across the board. I'm surprised that the stock ECU map produced an AFR that rich, most bikes seem to be on the lean side from the factory. I would normally attribute jerkyness to a too lean fueling condition, not too rich.
The fuel cut is what we are feeling, all of a sudden the bike goes from no fuel to lots of fuel and bang the bike takes off. This is why carbs were always better at low down smooth running, tuning them was a nightmare though.

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Darn!
You should have said you were coming over. He’s only a few miles down the road grim me. I would have come over.
Results look good.
I bet it felt like a new bike when you went to leave


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Werent allowed to watch and the waiting room was shut due to virus regulations, so just had a stroll around the town and park, bike was ready at 1pm.
 

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Well I had a good ride today to test the bike out and can say its much better for the remap. Did a variation of roads, city streets, open road and narrow country lanes and the bike behaved perfectly. It wasnt a cheap fix but stacked up against PCV unit and autotune add ons etc and I didnt have to do any downloads and stuff, and no faffing about with wiring harness. Well pleased.
 
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