[JeffroGymnast]

Hello fellow gsxs-ers,

I have had the following happen to me twice now (today and yesterday).

After starting the bike and riding off (bike soaked to ambient, appx 60 deg. F), I come up to my first or second stop sign and pull in the clutch and downshift from 2nd to 1st (clutch still pulled all the way in). As the bike comes to a stop, the engine suddenly dies. The RPMs seem to fall too fast and the idle doesn't catch it fast enough. It starts right up after that when I press the starter and seems to run fine until it's all the way cold again.

FWIW, the first temperature bar is already on when this happens. I actually have both of these occurrences on video so I will upload them to YouTube after work today.

Has anyone else experienced this issue? I'm thinking it's either a) running too lean or b) the canister is overfilled.

Thoughts?

edit: I forgot to mentioned that mechanically, my bike is 100% stock.

 

[DTM74]

It could be the evap canister. Did you just fill up the tank? Bad gas?

 

[JeffroGymnast]

It could be the evap canister. Did you just fill up the tank? Bad gas?

I was at about 100 mi on the tank yesterday and around 140 today. Haven't filled up since Friday. I put the same fuel in as I usually do (ARCO 91).

 

[rcannon409]

I've been able to kill every fuel injected bike I own by doing what you are saying. Every one.

A faster idle helps.

I dont think the answer is any different than we felt, years ago, when we had a manual choke. A computer dies it now, but the engine is still not up to operating temps and we dont have all the sensors monitoring like our cars do.

Heres hos I can kill mine, and I sometimes make a game of it. As you start the bike, its almost as if a "fast idle" kicks on. Thats fine, if the bike is sitting.

But, once you put it into motion, gearing, brakes and speed can drop the rpm. At that point, quickly closing the throttle will kill the engine.

 

[nicka]

i would start by checking the clutch switch is working fine

 

[JeffroGymnast]

i would start by checking the clutch switch is working fine

I will double check that after work, thanks.

 

[JeffroGymnast]

I've been able to kill every fuel injected bike I own by doing what you are saying. Every one.

A faster idle helps.

I dont think the answer is any different than we felt, years ago, when we had a manual choke. A computer dies it now, but the engine is still not up to operating temps and we dont have all the sensors monitoring like our cars do.

Heres hos I can kill mine, and I sometimes make a game of it. As you start the bike, its almost as if a "fast idle" kicks on. Thats fine, if the bike is sitting.

But, once you put it into motion, gearing, brakes and speed can drop the rpm. At that point, quickly closing the throttle will kill the engine.

Doesn't help that the engine runs lean as **** from the factory, either.

 

[rcannon409]

Jeffro, I can still do it on my ecu reflashed bikes.

Give it a try. Its one of those things your better off finding and learning to avoid as opposed to letting it happen as you pull out into something. Never was a deal when leaving the house. Kind of a deal the night it died leaving the drive in movie (long story).

My "cure" is to start the bike, then put helmet and gloves on. Thats enough time to avoid the issue.

 

[JeffroGymnast]

Jeffro, I can still do it on my ecu reflashed bikes.

Give it a try. Its one of those things your better off finding and learning to avoid as opposed to letting it happen as you pull out into something. Never was a deal when leaving the house. Kind of a deal the night it died leaving the drive in movie (long story).

My "cure" is to start the bike, then put helmet and gloves on. Thats enough time to avoid the issue.

Yep, totally agree with you.

I will try letting it warm up a bit more before taking off. Thanks for the tip.

 

[Davethesparky]

It's always better IMO to let the engine [and oil] warm a little before riding off.

 

[JeffroGymnast]

It's always better IMO to let the engine [and oil] warm a little before riding off.

Yep, I usually let it idle to the first temp bar as I'm gearing up. But my garage door broke this week and I've been putting my gloves on to open it with my hands. Which means I'm all geared up by the time I start the engine.

 

[Thumper07]

I don't have that problem. It was 85 degrees this morning when I got up. I walked my dog in short and flip flops

 

[Aaron]

Yep, I usually let it idle to the first temp bar as I'm gearing up. But my garage door broke this week and I've been putting my gloves on to open it with my hands. Which means I'm all geared up by the time I start the engine.

That is right, can't agree this more

 

[Slower and Slower]

Hello fellow gsxs-ers,

I have had the following happen to me twice now (today and yesterday).

After starting the bike and riding off (bike soaked to ambient, appx 60 deg. F), I come up to my first or second stop sign and pull in the clutch and downshift from 2nd to 1st (clutch still pulled all the way in). As the bike comes to a stop, the engine suddenly dies. The RPMs seem to fall too fast and the idle doesn't catch it fast enough. It starts right up after that when I press the starter and seems to run fine until it's all the way cold again.

FWIW, the first temperature bar is already on when this happens. I actually have both of these occurrences on video so I will upload them to YouTube after work today.

Has anyone else experienced this issue? I'm thinking it's either a) running too lean or b) the canister is overfilled.

Thoughts?

edit: I forgot to mentioned that mechanically, my bike is 100% stock.

Hi Jeffro,
Have you checked for any codes via the diagnostic socket under the rear seat?
I would put in the same short as per the TPS -C00, where the 00 is zero alarm state.
It would only pop up at the same time as the cooler weather stall happens, so you would need to bridge the pins full time and temporarily lose the clock function to see it. To see it in the ECU History, you will need the software tool.

The Intake Air Temp Sensor feeds into the ECU for the stepper actuator motor to operate the Secondary air butterfly, so it acts as a choke.
There are plenty of online stories about the actuator failing and the early symptom is stalling when cold.

Rob.

 

[JeffroGymnast]

Hi Jeffro,
Have you checked for any codes via the diagnostic socket under the rear seat?
I would put in the same short as per the TPS -C00, where the 00 is zero alarm state.
It would only pop up at the same time as the cooler weather stall happens, so you would need to bridge the pins full time and temporarily lose the clock function to see it. To see it in the ECU History, you will need the software tool.

The Intake Air Temp Sensor feeds into the ECU for the stepper actuator motor to operate the Secondary air butterfly, so it acts as a choke.
There are plenty of online stories about the actuator failing and the early symptom is stalling when cold.

Rob.

No codes. I'm convinced that it had to do with the purge system, since I haven't had the bike die since I removed it Also, adjusting the TPS seemed to make the engine idle much smoother when cold which is probably also related.

 

[Slower and Slower]

No codes. I'm convinced that it had to do with the purge system, since I haven't had the bike die since I removed it Also, adjusting the TPS seemed to make the engine idle much smoother when cold which is probably also related.

Yes Jeffro, the fuelling and air intake temp are inter related,
so we need C AJ to take his stored bike out into the Great Lakes snow and tell us it runs even more smoothly now than a few weeks back.
Up for it for The Team, Chicago AJ?


Rob.

 

[ChicagoAJ]

Yes Jeffro, the fuelling and air intake temp are inter related,
so we need C AJ to take his stored bike out into the Great Lakes snow and tell us it runs even more smoothly now than a few weeks back.
Up for it for The Team, Chicago AJ?


Rob.

Can't believe I'm just seeing this now, but here I am to say I picked up my bike yesterday. 38 degrees, let it sit for about 30 seconds. Went to pull out of the parking spot at the dealer and it died. Let it warm up a bit more and didn't have the problem after that initial 4-5 minute warm up.

It idled kind of rough the entire hour trip at every stoplight, but definitely pulled harder since it was so cold. But, I can't compare it to warm weather because I bought it very late October last year so it was only about 10 degrees warmer then.

 

[LEAVEITSTOCK]

picked up bike in november boston area...been riding in 28 to 35 deg weather at night...idles at 1000 never stalled all stock...your bikes stock or pc added

 

[JeffroGymnast]

Well, I haven't had my bike die in months now. Probably the ECU flash took care of the poor fueling.

 

[forgotenpast]

I have never had my bike die like this, although i always preheat it untill i have all 3 bars on... ive ridden from 10 degrees on up