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Agree with Rapido1 - Motul full synthetic is an outstanding oil. Had a VFR riding buddy that would buy nothing else. I have to say, his bike did shift very smoothly.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Guys ,iv bought it now but keep hearing people saying don't use full synthetic on our bikes as clutch will slip . Any advice much appreciated .
 

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I've used it and like it a lot. It seems to hold up longer than their race line 300V which I have also used. I've switched off between that and Amsoil Synthetic Metric.
 

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I'm normally a fan of Motul but after about 2,000 miles on 5100 I was having some problems with gear changes from 4-5-6 at higher revs especially with clutchless up changes.
 

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Not sure if your guys in the states can get this oil but I only ever use Penrite oils.
I’ve been using it for a lot of years in different motorcycles and its been great.
I also run Penrite in our cars and mower.
In the gsxs I’m running 10w40 full synthetic factory racing.
I only buy it when it’s on special so Ive always got a couple in the garage. ;)
 

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Motor Oil is one of those subjects where everyone has an opinion but very few people have any real knowledge to base it on. It's all "black magic". :)

After spending thousands of dollars and hundreds of hours doing oil testing in a taxi fleet plus, because I was curious I did for over 10 years with my own cars and motorcycles.
The biggest takeaway from all that testing was that the brand is the least important factor when it comes to selecting your oil. Every brand will have some oils that are suitable for your application and some that are not.

Provided you use the right grade (SG, SJ, JASO MA etc.) and the right viscosity range and change it within the manufacturers recommended intervals the overall life of the engine is going to vary by a small percentage (<3%) of km's at most. That was our result with taxi's ranging from new to 900,000km. We worked closely with a lab in Malaga WA and tested every suitable oil that was on the market in WA.

Contrary to popular belief there's almost no difference between car and bike oils. The contents are just about the same. The "friction modifier" in car oils that don't meet JASO MA is the only real difference. Otherwise, the additive pack used by the oil manufacturer will be mostly the same it will just be the percentages of the additives that vary.

Those additives come from only a handful of companies throughout the world, so the additives in Motul and Castrol and Amsoil and Penrite etc. came from the same maker, probably even the same batches. If the oil was bottled in Australia then the entire contents (including base-stock oil) was the same as others bottled in Australia. I assume the US and other countries is probably the same or similar.

The biggest benefits of synthetic oils are that you can run a longer service time interval if you're not using the bike much and it's ability to handle high heat (+125°C). If neither of these are a concern then you'll get the same from a semi-synthetic at a lower overall cost. We did find that mineral-only oils, though they contained many of the same additives because the base stock was of a lower quality would stop offering the same protection as the other oils much sooner. e.g. Mobil 1 was over 15,000km but the cheap mineral oil was done by 5,000km.

If you really want to know what's happening in your engine I really recommend getting your own oil tested. It's the only way to really know. The labs can tell you whether your oil is still protecting your engine. Large fleet users require this kind of information because it can save hundreds of thousands of dollars in maintenance and lifespan.
 

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I forgot to mention, the difference between racing oil and road oil is that the road oil is formulated to ensure it lasts for the entire service interval. Racing oils sacrifice lifespan for greater heat resistance and extreme pressure additives.

Being in Australia we're lucky that our oils can contain zinc as an extreme pressure additive. This is the last line of defense against metal to metal contact when the oil gets too hot and loses its viscosity.

Unfortunately in many other parts of the world zinc has been removed for environmental reasons and they've had to use other additives which don't provide the same protection.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 

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Curious, did different oil fix the problem?
I found it strange too. I had it serviced about 300 miles ago and it slowly dawned that the gear changes had improved since the service was done. As it was the 2nd year service the only thing I can think of that could have made any difference was the oil, I actually chatted with the mechanic when I picked it up and he said everything had fine.
 

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Thanks Guys ,iv bought it now but keep hearing people saying don't use full synthetic on our bikes as clutch will slip . Any advice much appreciated .
Hey Dylanfz, clutch slip is a nightmare, but you will be fine using the Motul synthetic and it is formulated for use in motorcycles, which is a fancy way of saying the "friction modifiers" have been removed so it can be used with motorcycle 'wet clutches' without causing slippage. Besides, the GSX-S1000 has a 'good' clutch in it, so that helps.


I had a 1986 Yamaha Radian (600cc inline four; air cooled) which I really liked, but the clutch was weak (it came from one of their 400cc bikes). Sure enough, when I ran Mobil 1 synthetic in THAT bike, the clutch slipped, but that's because the clutch was crap to begin with and I needed to put in stronger clutch springs and new plates to make it happy. Plus, I didn't use motorcycle specific oil, which didn't help things. You won't have ANY issues using the MOTUL SYNTHETIC in YOUR GSX-S1000. Top quality stuff. Wish I could bring myself to afford to put it in my bike! (I'm cheap...sue me.)


I've run synthetic in every bike I've owned without a problem, other than that Yamaha Radian. (And - don't tell anyone - but a lot of times it was "regular" Mobil 1 synthetic CAR oil with the friction modifiers and...still no problem! But, we aren't suppose to use that so if anyone asks, I never did. Okay. Our secret. Shhhh...)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks very much frog4aday that's exactly what I wanted to hear , it's going in tomorrow haha ......all the best pal .
 

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I've only used Motul oil in all my bikes, majority of them runs V300, the rest runs 7100, and I've never had any oil related issue, some bikes are over 100 000kms with 30 00km on the track.
im not able to say that "this" oil is better than "that" oil or stuff like that, I started using Motul, it worked, I kept on using it...so have zero comparative info for you...

but on the other hand, when I did car racing, we ran the cheapest oil we could find, back then it was like R80 for 5L (roughly 5 USD) swopping it out after every time on track, also had zero issues,
 

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Anyone running the ecstar r9000? I was thinking about getting that for my next service. 7500 miles. Otherwise what would another full synthetic be?
 

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Anyone running the ecstar r9000? I was thinking about getting that for my next service. 7500 miles. Otherwise what would another full synthetic be?
I don't think you can go wrong with that lube, but I haven't used it, mainly because of availability. Tested extensively with Suzuki MCs on the race circuit. Then again, there are many great oils out there. I've had good luck with Motul 7100, Amsoil Metric, and Rotella T6. I've had variations in gear engagement clank (neutral to first) at high temps between the brands/viscosities, but no problems. Right now I'm running Motul 7100 and I have 5 quarts of Amsoil in the wings (what I used before the Motul, and seems a little quieter on neutral to first in the heat.
 

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I use the expensive stuff because it helps me sleep well at night. I did quite extensive research and my best mate runs a lab testing oils for Boral, Rio Tinto etc. The take home message was

1. Use the correct grade/specification
2. Change it more often
 

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Rotella T6 - another synthetic option

Anyone running the ecstar r9000? I was thinking about getting that for my next service. 7500 miles. Otherwise what would another full synthetic be?

I don't think you can go wrong with that lube, but I haven't used it, mainly because of availability. Tested extensively with Suzuki MCs on the race circuit. Then again, there are many great oils out there. I've had good luck with Motul 7100, Amsoil Metric, and Rotella T6. <SNIPPED STUFF>
Mike D listed some great options. I'm using the Shell Rotella T6 synthetic 10W-40. It has the correct JASO-MA certification for our bikes and I thought I'd give it a try since it was one of the few 'motorcycle' synthetic oils that didn't cost a fortune. Shell is a known, quality manufacturer of oil, so I'm sure it's going to be fine.
 
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