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GSX-S 1000 F
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everybody!
I'm a long time gsx-r 750 user that LOVED the bike, wanted to replace it with a newer model at the beginnig of 2020... then covid happend :(

Seeing as I'm not getting any younger I finally found a beautiful, good as new, 7k km 2016 GSX-S 1000F.

I'm planning on changing the original licence plate holder, air filter, all the oils and checking the throttle position (has notable on/off).
Any other upgrade suggested?

Thanks!
 

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I have a 16 F also. I had Dano remap the ECU to take out any throttle twitch and reduce some of the engine brake. Makes a big difference and I replaced the stock spring with a Hyperpro progressive spring, Love the bike and I;m sure you will enjoys yours.
 

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2016 GSX S1000F
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I second the ECU remap with Dano’s. My ‘16 F ride was so much better with less throttle snatch and improved power.
EBC brake pads were noticeably improved bite. Heated grips a must for me in winter months.
Rear shock is next on the list, it’s just so bad.
 

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Welcome to the club.

same as most, my 3 complaints with the bike, so this what I personally see as priority:
  • rear shock
  • soft spongy front brake feel (mostly due to abs though)
  • throttle on/off jerkiness.

MAINTENANCE SIDE:
- 7k miles is spark plugs service -
I’d suggest doing them while you’re at it with the air filter.
 

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I just changed my plugs at 24k and they looked new. Don't have the spongy front brakes on mine. The only problem I had was with the cheezy ignition barrel. At about 5k the key was stuck in the barrel and had to have all the locks changed. Fortunately it was under warranty. I now use a squirt of Houdini in the barrel every couple of months.
 

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I just changed my plugs at 24k and they looked new. Don't have the spongy front brakes on mine. The only problem I had was with the cheezy ignition barrel. At about 5k the key was stuck in the barrel and had to have all the locks changed. Fortunately it was under warranty. I now use a squirt of Houdini in the barrel every couple of months.
I recently had dangerously spongy brakes that a complete flush solved. And I used to have problems with the key getting in and out that gradually went away with WD-40. It's the design of these newer bikes that catches debris and funnels it into the ignition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
And I used to have problems with the key getting in and out that gradually went away with WD-40. It's the design of these newer bikes that catches debris and funnels it into the ignition.
Yeah, I just had to soak the whole thing in WD40 to get the key to turn, seems a common problem!
 

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Mine had a somewhat sticky key as well- no problems turning but insertion/removal was a bit fussy. Lubricated with triflow and its way better. I'm stoked to have an ignition key/cylinter that aren't worn out... I had a few dup keys made, stashed them in the lockbox. When I got my old bandit (and r6) the keys and cylinders were all worn so new keys didn't fit wonderfully...
 

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If the key issue happens again I'm thinking of getting rid of the barrel altogether and installing a marine toggle switch somewhere hidden on the bike. I don't leave my bike unattended very often so theft is not a problem but getting stranded somewhere is a problem.
 

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That’s weird, never heard of that ignition barrel issue. but I’ve always sprayed a bit of WD40 or PTFE lube in the key hole of pretty much every single bike I’ve owned as preventative maintenance. I usually do it along clutch and throttle cable lubing, which I do once a year usually.

Concerning spark plugs, I was just sharing what the service manual states in case @Aste88 didn’t know.
Because plug intervals are unusually short on this bike.
Could they go longer, probably yes. But maybe someone had a good reason to put it this way in the maintenance schedule.
Personally I don’t go by the “looking good” aspect. 7k miles is what the maintenance schedule is. I personally won’t try saving $50 and wait until a plug drops in my cylinder, it’s not worth it.
 
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