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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Good evening!
Long story short. I raced in the streetfighter series for a few years. Battling my life out trying to beat the naked GSXR750’s and 675 Triumphs. Having retired after a fe years in superstock 600. Decided to look into a road going naked GSXR750. But the s750 looked very basic. So I found the s1000. Better spec. And went for that. (I didn’t know this bike existed!)

The bike itself had a good story. It was Suzukis display bike from 15-20. So although it’s a 2015 model. It was only registered in 2021 in covid. So has only been on the road 1 year and done 5500 miles.

The bonus is it has had the Yoshimura catalogue thrown at it so it had all sorts of useless things like Yoshi top yoke nut, bar ends, oil cap, casings etc etc. Also has a decat and map but first touch of the throttle is still quite snappy. Maybe have to get it back on a dyno to look at this. Although I fitted a baffle to the exhaust and it actually smoothed it out a bit.

I’ve ignored most of the YouTube reviews. So I can go into the bike with no preconceived ideas.
Quick base suspension set up as it was flapping the bars like a startled chicken. (Had too much preload as standard for my weight). Chassis is now calmer but whole bike is a bit soft and lacks damping control, but it makes it feel fun and like you’re “using it”.
Fitted a quickshifter in GP pattern and added 2 teeth to the rear sprocket to wake it up a bit in 2,3,4th gears, and it’s now a real nice road bike

I have a few questions. First one is. If this has an 07-08 GSXR1000 rear end. Does the rear GSXR1000 rear shock slot right in? I see people talking about R1 shocks so this is confusing me as to why we’re not all fitting the GSXR unit it it has the rear end and basically the same frame?
 

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Sounds like you scored a nice bike, congratulations! To my knowledge, remembering this question asked prior, a GSXR rear shock is not a direct bolt on. Some modification would be required. Have you searched this forum for the answer to that question? There are many threads on rear shock options for this bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Some winter work underway.
Wasn’t going to do it. But got a good deal from one of the old Thundersport paddock sponsors.
Razor R shock
Forks rebuilt with SSK pistons and FCV control valves.
Put on a set of S22’s which seem to get good feedback for road use. Fast warm up.Good feel. And can take some track use.

Be interesting to get it on a trackday as it is with lights and number plate, as now, as a package it actually looks like alot of fun and could put in some decent laps.

Tire Wheel Green Automotive tire Tread

Tire Fuel tank Wheel Automotive fuel system Vehicle

Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive tire Plant Vehicle
 

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I'm a bit puzzled by the spring preload on this bike, as I've got the front preload fully out (soft) and the rear preload fully loaded (I think setting of 5 or 7). I don't use much brake or throttle, and prefer to bomb through corners with the bike cornering very flat, and I've ended up with this very odd preload setup. Tire wear is beautifully even, with no cupping, so that preload does indeed feel right, and bumps are exactly even front and back. This is all during cornering as I don't concern myself with straight line suspension.

But, jeez, max preload on the rear and min preload on the front? That can't be right.
 

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I'm a bit puzzled by the spring preload on this bike, as I've got the front preload fully out (soft) and the rear preload fully loaded (I think setting of 5 or 7). I don't use much brake or throttle, and prefer to bomb through corners with the bike cornering very flat, and I've ended up with this very odd preload setup. Tire wear is beautifully even, with no cupping, so that preload does indeed feel right, and bumps are exactly even front and back. This is all during cornering as I don't concern myself with straight line suspension.

But, jeez, max preload on the rear and min preload on the front? That can't be right.
Sure sounds like you might be confused on the rear preload ie reading it backwards... Full preload on the stock rear seems like the rear would be jammed on the top of travel and little/no sag. I ran the rear with 0 preload and lower tire pressure to calm it down- rebound damping adjust didn't do much of anything I could feel. I've confused myself on preload and damping approx only 1000 times or so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Forks been done. So now I can see the cause of the problems. The front end never had any real feeling. But I put that down to being on a road bike, road tyres, public roads. Maybe it’s never going to feedback like a race bike will.
But main issue is. It feels quite soft, (but that’s good for the road) on tip in. Hold a line ok. But when it’s in the corner. There’s no real feel from the front tyre.
Once the forks were stripped. We found it had progressive springs. So yes, that explains everything. The fake tip in feeling, feeling like it’s transferring weight but then once it gets deeper in its stroke. It stiffened up. Stopping any feedback. It something like 8nm initially then bound up to 14nm in the stoke.
All sorted now. SSK20 piston kit. FCV valves. Liner springs to weight.
Will get them fitted back on and once the steering damper arrives. Get it built back up. Then ready for 2023. I said I wouldn’t track it. But now it’s looking quite appealing!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Good point. No, I’ve not ridden the bike yet. I won’t get out on it until March probably!
This can be a problem on the internet. Products can get bed feedback.

You then check the YouTube video and the guy is 250lbs and riding isn’t the same as your own pace/style. But unless you see that. You’d take his word as truth. You’ll get a guy claiming a rear doesn’t have grip. But his corner speed is low. He parks it on the apex. Then gives it a load of gas and claims the rear doesn’t have grip. Kinda like the TC info. “It’s too intrusive”. It’s not if you ride up to it then lean on it a little. If you are mid bend and don’t have great throttle control, or connection with the tyre. It’ll be on all the time.

The problem with something the Pirelli’s as a more track based tyre is it’s slow heat up times etc and keeping the heat in it. I need the tyre to work on the road. At cooler temps. I’m still based in Scotland just now until I export the bike to Spain after summer.

The S22’s have more silica. Work from cold. Can handle higher temps (almost) and recover from them. Stable.
My friend runs a biking channel/site (44Teeth) and was on the launch with McWilliams and he was knee down in the wet out the pits on lap 1.
Silvan Guintoli uses them on his Suzukis, have a search on YouTube for his onboard Donington laps. His times on a standard Hayabusa complete with number plate would put him at the front of a Club Race.
Good point though. Until I ride them. Yeah I can’t say. I just made some research. Spoke to Fagan who has roads alot of test bikes on them. And made the decision.
I always raced on Dunlops, and then to Pirelli on the 600. Those Road 5 Michelin that came on the bike were a bit squared and I couldn’t get much feel from the front (but now we know this was due to the forks).
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Some more info/commentary on your front-end/rear geometry/fork/shock setup would be nice given your experience. Thanks!
I don’t have much to give really. It’s icy here so I won’t get to ride the bike until maybe March.


Comp and rebound all set to standard K Tech base settings.
Chassis geometry is as you’d expect.
Static sag set to base points.
As it’s road bike as a starting point I used 12mm rear. 30mm front.
Rear sag I’ll feel out more due to the bike running +2 teeth on rear sprocket so wheelbase is shorter.

No real need now for rider sags. As i know the bike is now sprung for my weight. And personally if the bike is sprung to weight…… I’ve never understood why guys then set rider sag as it’s a non constant variable. You see people setting rider sags. Sat perfectly. Bolt upright. Weight distributed evenly. Nobody rides the bike like that! When riding the ass will be moving back/forward/off the seat. Head and shoulders down/off. So there goes those rider sag settings now the weight is in a different place.

Just have to ride it now. Then tweak it based on feel.
 
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