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Bemil - how rigid is the joint where it folds up? I saw a video on youtube of a folding lever (not Puig) that would flip up out of reach if you bumped the bottom of the lever going for it. Reaching up and bringing it back down would waste valuable braking time.
 

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Bemil - how rigid is the joint where it folds up? I saw a video on youtube of a folding lever (not Puig) that would flip up out of reach if you bumped the bottom of the lever going for it. Reaching up and bringing it back down would waste valuable braking time.
Not saying your concern is invalid... however, if you're really concerned about braking reaction time, just always cover the brake with a couple fingers. Then moving the other fingers out of the way won't pop the lever up since you're holding it down anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
This is the Puig brake lever. The set screw allows me to change where the lever bites.
Bemil,

Can you send the link for the Puig Brake Lever Mount? I can't see that screw on the Puig mount when I look on the internet.

Thanks.
 

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Bemil - how rigid is the joint where it folds up? I saw a video on youtube of a folding lever (not Puig) that would flip up out of reach if you bumped the bottom of the lever going for it. Reaching up and bringing it back down would waste valuable braking time.
There is a definate snap when it's goes into place. I've used it for a month now and have not had it get out of position once. They also make the same lever without the flip up feature for $10 less.
No where in Puig's description does it list the adjustability feature, but, it is there.

https://puigusa.com/en/tuning-motos/levers/levers
 

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There is a definate snap when it's goes into place. I've used it for a month now and have not had it get out of position once. They also make the same lever without the flip up feature for $10 less.
No where in Puig's description does it list the adjustability feature, but, it is there.

https://puigusa.com/en/tuning-motos/levers/levers
Since I don't really want the flip up feature anyway, good to know they come in regular.

One more quick question...is that screw on the lever or the perch? If on the lever I would assume any of them with the "2.0" label would have the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I like the idea of having this fine adjustment so I just bought the Puig Hi-Tech Type 2 levers and the needed mount. I will report back ounce I install them.
 

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Something I just thought of regarding the adjustment on the master cylinder - at what point in the travel does the piston cover the return hole for the brake fluid? The piston can't be adjusted in past the point where it covers this hole or the pads would not be able to retract slightly off the disc. Has anyone ever noticed or checked how far into the travel the fluid path back to the reservoir gets blocked?

If I were to install one of these, after adjusting that screw I would test to make sure I could push the pads / caliper piston back in.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Something I just thought of regarding the adjustment on the master cylinder - at what point in the travel does the piston cover the return hole for the brake fluid? The piston can't be adjusted in past the point where it covers this hole or the pads would not be able to retract slightly off the disc. Has anyone ever noticed or checked how far into the travel the fluid path back to the reservoir gets blocked?

If I were to install one of these, after adjusting that screw I would test to make sure I could push the pads / caliper piston back in.

I seems like the installation instructions cover that, but I understand what you saying, however I believe there is still a bit of room to make the brake feel better without compromising anything of that:


Here's what the instructions say:

"IMPORTANT: BEFORE RIDING THE MOTORCYCLE IT'S OBLIGATORY MAKE THIS REGULATION

Perch part# 5458N with regulation on brake feeling.

Adjusting process:
1. Lift the front wheel and make it turn to verify it does not get braked.

2. Through the regulation on screw 1, the point of brake entry can be adjusted (tighting the screw the brake entry will be
advanced; loosening it, the brake entry is delayed). It is very important to leave a security margin to avoid pads under
pression ending up with locked brakes. To ensure this security margin is given, a gauge can be placed (a paper fold up
several times could be used) on the limit of bracket A and ensure that the wheel does not get locked.

3. Once adjusted, tighten the screw “2”."

##################

I got the levers but I didn't install them yet.

I have a front fork wheel lift however I notice the front right "pin" makes contact with the ABS sensor bracket on the bottom of the right fork leg so I didn't try lifting the bike yet.

Does anyone did notice this as well? How do you guys lift the front fork on your GSX-S1000?


Thanks.
 

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How do you guys lift the front fork on your GSX-S1000?
I use an ABBA stand which fixes through the swing arm pivot then a jack under the front of the exhaust pipe. Or you can just get someone to sit on the rear seat, if no-one available then a heavy toolbox will do it;).
 

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I have a variety of stands, but the two suitable for lifting the front wheel are a conventional front wheel stand with points that fit into the recess on the underneath of the forks and an Abba Skylift (the skylift can lift horizontal, front wheel up or rear wheel up). As you can see neither get near the ABS sensor



 

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I didn't quite understand the part about making a gage, but I got the gist of it. You want to make sure you leave a margin for error. Good that they stress this.

I have used a head lift stand from Cycle Gear to lift the front. For anything that would involve loosening or removing the forks you obviously can't lift on the fork bottoms.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
quick update,

So I installed the Puig levers and followed the instructions and I can confirm now that the adjusting screw indeed helps a bit.

I also tested my new Mityvac MV8000 brake bleeding pump to find out that is completely garbage unless I'm using it wrong. If I'm using the pump I'm not supposed to touch the brake lever right? well. when I open the fluid valve the pump does not suck any fluid. I tried different PSI and made sure there is suction pressure created however does not suck a thing. Once I pump the lever the fluid comes out right away.

Any one had issues like this?
 

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I also tested my new Mityvac MV8000 brake bleeding pump to find out that is completely garbage unless I'm using it wrong. If I'm using the pump I'm not supposed to touch the brake lever right? well. when I open the fluid valve the pump does not suck any fluid. I tried different PSI and made sure there is suction pressure created however does not suck a thing. Once I pump the lever the fluid comes out right away.

Any one had issues like this?
No, quite the opposite - If I open the valve fully I can't pour in replacement brake fluid fast enough so I just crack the valve open a little. If there is suction I can't understand why it doesn't suck any fluid out
 

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Is it possible the bleeding problem could be related to the previously discussed issue with the the adjusting screw and bleed hole?
 

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where i dont have abs i like the softer feel...panic stop locking up front is not a good result....theres been a few times hitting front hard gives a strong slow down and a tat of extra time to go left, right or be fine or decide if its full blown brake as hard as you can time,,,,think a lot of panic stops result in bike going down with to strong of brake at beginning of panic ...bikes on the ground you hit nothing....and driver of the car looks at you like your a fool
 
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