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I have the same problem as the original poster -- after riding a track setup S1000RR at California Super Bike school (which had immediately response, great feedback, great modularity), I have really been wanting to improve brake feel. Please let me know whatever solutions you guys come up with.
 

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I have the same problem as the original poster -- after riding a track setup S1000RR at California Super Bike school (which had immediately response, great feedback, great modularity), I have really been wanting to improve brake feel. Please let me know whatever solutions you guys come up with.
The usual - Pads, Lines and MC

EBC HH pads, HEL line and lastly Brembo RCS master cylinder - my brakes are now perfect for me....
 

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The usual - Pads, Lines and MC

EBC HH pads, HEL line and lastly Brembo RCS master cylinder - my brakes are now perfect for me....
Hey Paul - do you have an exact part link for the Brembo MC you used? I looked on their website and there seem to be several different options. Thanks!
 

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Hey Paul - do you have an exact part link for the Brembo MC you used? I looked on their website and there seem to be several different options. Thanks!
Hi,

I used the Brembo RCS 19 listed on this page

But If i was buying one today I would use the new version. Brembo RCS 19 Corsa Corta which has an adjustable bite point, link here but wasn't available when I bought mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
I have the same problem as the original poster -- after riding a track setup S1000RR at California Super Bike school (which had immediately response, great feedback, great modularity), I have really been wanting to improve brake feel. Please let me know whatever solutions you guys come up with.
No sure about other people but the Puig levers with the adjustment screw really helped reducing the travel and the overall feeling. The brake is much more responsive once I apply pressure.
 

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Paul,

You have an S1000-F but I guess for the S1000 owners you can't use "normal" mirrors with that brembo setup right?
Yes, i have an F but the mirrors, although different between naked and the F, fit to the same location on both, which is the bracket attached to the levers as as opposed to the levers themselves....that wasn't very clear but you can still fit the stock mirrors with a Brembo MC
 

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quick update,

So I installed the Puig levers and followed the instructions and I can confirm now that the adjusting screw indeed helps a bit.

I also tested my new Mityvac MV8000 brake bleeding pump to find out that is completely garbage unless I'm using it wrong. If I'm using the pump I'm not supposed to touch the brake lever right? well. when I open the fluid valve the pump does not suck any fluid. I tried different PSI and made sure there is suction pressure created however does not suck a thing. Once I pump the lever the fluid comes out right away.

Any one had issues like this?
Shadow I too had a bit of a learning curve with the Mityvac. Try a small tie wrap around the clear plastic tubing where it fits over the bleed nipple. Create vacuum with Mityvac, open bleed nipple fitting and wait. It will start flowing, but it wont be instantaneous. Be sure to remove the resevoir cover first. And refill as it gets low.

In the end it worked great for me once I used tie wraps. I got out a bunch of grungy looking fluid and sucked in new clean. And brake lever was nice and firm. Don't give up on it.
 

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I used a plastic syringe not a Mityvac (cos I'm a cheapskate) and it was essential to use a cable tie on the nipple.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Hello,


so I decided to give another go with the MV8000. Quick question though:


I have the wheels out of the bike at the moment, can I bleed the brakes with this pump without causing the brake pistons move?

I don't want to run into the situation that I'm not able to retract them. Or if I do a full flush I should be able to retract them in case this happens?




thanks!
 

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I am no expert although I did replace the fluid in both front and rear using mity vac to very good firm results.. I would fold up some cardboard or anything to cram between the brake pads and go for it. You will be able to pull that out and pry the pads apart with a flat blade screwdriver if necessary. I mirror what dekker said about cable ties. They made the difference for me. And doing the front with the wheel on the bike was a pain to get to the nipples as they were on the inside. So I say cram and go!
 

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One more thing: Get the vacuum going and have patience.. Eventually you will see the fluid move. I was a little surprised at the delayed effect.
 

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Old thread, but some additional comments that might help.
1. On my last bike, I had sponginess after installing stainless lines, even after my bleeding a QUART of fluid. Eventually, I got the air out. I had to take the front calipers, place them higher than the master cylinder, tap the lines and calipers with a screwdriver handle, and bleed like another quart. After that, solid as a rock. Not sure how that changes with the ABS module?
2. My vacuum pump looks very similar to the Pittsburgh automotive at Horror Freight. I have had for years, so forget where I got it from. As mentioned, keep brake fluid out of it! Rebuilt once already, have a couple kits to rebuild again, although they will probably be dry rotted by the time I need them! Some have mentioned the mighty vac not working so good. What does the gauge read? Is vacuum established?
3. No zip tie on bleeder nipple barb. Friction fit. Multiple vehicles, has always worked. Clear nylon tubing. Eventually, The tubing gets hard where it contacts the metal. So every once in a while I will cut the last 1/4 inch or so off.
4. I get brake fluid out almost immediately, unless the bleeder screw has clogged.
5. Teflon tape on the bleeder threads helps seal around the bleeder screw/caliper interface and maintain vacuum.
 
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