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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2016 1000F and with only an air filter and power commander. The bike has 2,300 miles on it. It runs good and since the power commander i haven't had any throttle problems and can cruise at a steady speed. Tonight while on the highway I downshifted into second and brought it up to red line in 3 gears. When I let off the throttle the bike sounded and felt weird. It sounded like a car when the muffler falls off and it didn't seem to have much power. I thought maybe the header came loose.The engine light came on and a F-1 code came up and I pulled off the road. I was close to home so I decided to ride it. On the way back it felt and sounded ok again. Any ideas? Any way to find out what fault code? Thanks....
 

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I don't know about the F-1 code. Did it go away? If it did you are probably OK. ...but downshifting into redline? Why? I really wouldn't recommend downshifting into redline. You can actually downshift into beyond redline and that WILL toast your engine. I hope you didn't do that.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I didn't downshift to red line. I dropped down into second then brought it up to red line in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. When I down shifted into second it brought the rpms up to 8,ooo from there I rolled on it and shifted at red line. At no time did I over rev the motor. I'm thinking maybe the exhaust valve got stuck open or maybe the was a bad sensor reading keeping it opened.
 

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It's actually FI (for fuel injection). You will need to put it in dealer mode to read the stored code(s). There is a connector under the pillion seat, you can either use a commercially available switch, or short together two wires in the connector with a paperclip or jumper wire. See post #60 in the "Primary TPS could be the key to SNATCH???" thread

With the six-pin connector tab to the right, it's the two bottom adjacent pins.
 

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When you get the code if you post it here I'll look it up in the service manual.
 

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The Power Commander and the ECU maybe having a relationship issue.
Perhaps the fuse for the PC may have to be pulled out if you get stuck on the side of the road as an easy "first try" option to get you going again.
I am assuming doing that will allow the bike to return to the stock wiring.

A Battery can suddenly die and recover if there is a faulty internal connection like a crack in the cell busbars.
There has been a Member report their Battery case cracked and leaked acid over the bike parts, so have a look at that as well and that the wiring connections on the battery posts are tight.

Rob.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
When you get the code if you post it here I'll look it up in the service manual.
Thank you G-Dub. When I get a chance I'll report back the stored code. What ever happened it did clear up right away. I'm assuming because the bike was noticeably louder at idle and in the lower rpms the valve in the exhaust hung open possibly causing the error code? I appreciate everyone's input and advice and I will post back with my findings .
 

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Discussion Starter #11
*Update. I didn't have a chance to put it in dealer mode to pull codes yet but I did take the bike for a good blast and it rode/felt great. As soon as I get a chance I'll try to find any stored code(s) and report back. Thanks all....
 

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Discussion Starter #12
When you get the code if you post it here I'll look it up in the service manual.
G-Dub, I put my bike in dealer mode and didn't see any stored fault codes. I did see the tps adjustment was off, so I adjusted it. Is there a special technique or sequence to get to the stored fault codes? Thank you...
 

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G-Dub, I put my bike in dealer mode and didn't see any stored fault codes. I did see the tps adjustment was off, so I adjusted it. Is there a special technique or sequence to get to the stored fault codes? Thank you...
I thought you could just read them on the dash, so I'm not sure. Maybe you need the Suzuki diagnostic computer? The service manual is a bit vague. If there's a dealer near you, maybe you could sweet talk them into hooking it up and seeing if there are any stored codes.
 
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