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Discussion Starter #1
So I started the TPS adjustment process and missed a vital step (I never put it into dealer mode) prior to checking the voltage across the Kawasaki lead. Doh...

Fortunately, I noticed this before unplugging the second sensor to access the torx screw for the actual adjustment itself.

So effectively, all I’ve done is disconnect and reconnect the immobiliser and TPS sensor cables. Now I’ve got C14 and C42 despite both immobiliser and TPS sensor being reconnected.

How can I get rid of these faults?

Do I need to clear these before attempting the TPS adjustment? Is it safe to put it into dealer mode and carry on regardless with the TPS adjustment?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
C14 - THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
C15 - ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
C21 - INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
C22 - ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE SENSOR
C23 - TIPOVER SENSOR
C24 - IGNITION SIGNAL #1
C25 - IGNITION SIGNAL #2
C26 - IGNITION SIGNAL #3
C27 - IGNITION SIGNAL #4
C28 - SECONDARY THROTTLE VALVE ACTUATOR
C29 - SECONDARY THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
C30 - SECONDARY THROTTLE CONTROL UNIT
C31 - GEAR POSITION SENSOR
C32 - INJCTOR SIGNAL #1
C33 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #2
C34 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #3
C35 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #4
C41 - FUEL PUMP CONTROL SYSTEM
C42 - INGNITIO SWITCH SIGNAL
C46 - EXHAUST CONTROL VALVE ACTUATOR (1000 ONLY)
 

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I don't think dealer mode makes any difference either way.
I got the lead to avoid having to use the - line on the dash, but if your bike is after 2017 you won't have that facility anyway.
Codes might vanish when you've ridden the bike a bit.
No doubt someone more expert than I will be along to answer soon
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No worries. I’ll take it out and see if that clears it.

I’ll try disconnecting the battery too if driving it doesn’t clear it...


Leaveitstock - great username. Wish I had...
 

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Hi Dennis,
For starters, what was the voltage that you measured at the sensor breakout lead ?
1.12 to 1.14 from memory is what range is acceptable. 1.13 V is better.
Outside of the range of tolerance, it could generate that C14 alarm status.
The C42 one, the ignition switch is a new one on me. Seeing your in the UK, I am pressuming that you like me have a sensor collar around the ignition switch that you had to de couple as part of the process.

When I did mine on the 2016 bike, and turned the ign on, that C alarm did come up in dealer mode, BUT went away when the bike was all re assembled. Only active faults show in dealer mode. Past history does not.
So is it clicked together properly ? Check it again.
Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery unfortunately doesn't work at clearing alarms, you need to find what is generating it and then it will clear. The exception is the front wheel sensor code caused by running the motor while the rear wheel is driving up on a stand. Then it will eventually clear after it sorts itself out.

It read's like you moved the secondary TBS sensor to get access to the covered up screw of the primary TPS sensor. Next time just decouple the electrical connector of the sec TPS sensor. I did the same thing, but it's best not to. I was just fixated on the wrong TPS , and didn't see there were 2 of them !
The sec TPS is not so critical as the Primary one.
The primary one, as that's the one you operate via the throttle grip.
The secondary TPS is feedback to the ECU and the checks the action of secondary TB butterfly stepper actuator is working in range.

Rob.
 

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Did you attempt to start the bike whilst the tank was lifted and the tps check lead installed?
I did the exact same thing and suffered the same codes.
The ignition immobiliser is magnetic and was out of range when disconnected as Rob stated.
The manual instructs that the ignition needs to be set in the on position but the bike does not need to be started.
I can't recall if disconnecting the battery fixed the issue once everything was back together.
You can still ride it even with the codes flashing, it's annoying though.
The day after the error I was due to have my bike flashed. The tuner used woolich to remove the current and stored codes from the ecu.
This can also be performed with the suzuki diagnostics tool which all suzuki mechanics will have. As a last resort take it to them.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So glad I found this forum - really appreciate the detailed replies.

Cainus- I think that’s exactly what I did...

Slower and slower - I got 1.097V and 4.45
43943


43947


I’m just gonna leave the TPS as it was until I’ve ridden it to clear the faults.

I have no idea if my numbers are ‘good’ but the snatchiness is noticeable enough to try the adjustment.

43948

It looks like I’ll need to remove the connector in front of the Torx. Once I’ve done that and loosened the Torx, what is it that I’m adjusting?

From the videos, it looks like I’ve to rotate the TPS housing (that the breakout lead is attached to). Is that right?
 

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That's correct. That connector is the STP. Disconnect and move it aside. Loosen the tps mounting screw enough that you can slightly move the sensor. Small inputs as it's very sensitive. If i recall correctly the voltage range is 1.10 to 1.14
Mine was at 1.10 and I adjusted to 1.13.
It threw a code and had a fit, supplying fuel in the throttle closed position. I went to the dealer and the tool wouldn't even reset it so I returned the tps back to 1.1. The tool then reset the closed position and all is well.
I think tps accounts for so little and isn't worth the trouble. If I had my time again I would have saved the $100 on the lead and left it alone.
 

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Again for the 100th time you don't need the lead you need two sewing needles. Fix your TPS there was and for many who reported a white paint pen mark which once the TPS was set to 1.13 lined up perfectly. It was clearly set incorrect for some purpose.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I haven’t had much time to spend on the bike but I did set the TPS to 1.13 with the existing fault codes present (C14 & C42).

I removed the plug for the secondary TPS (I think) andadded another code to that growing list (C14, C29, C42).

Took it for a ride and certainly noticed the difference (it could be placebo effect but I did feel as if the snatchiness had been reduced). I complained on another thread about getting a sore throttle hand (that problem seems to have reduced without making any other changes to bar/lever positions).

Stopped the bike during the ride, turned ignition off and on again (codes still there) did it again and this time they cleared. Result!

So now my bike feels nicer to ride at low speeds and I do t have any fault codes. Thanks to everyone that helped!

43971
 
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