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Discussion Starter #1
Hi folks. Just attempted the tps adjustment and tried starting the bike with the stp disconnected and apparently the ignition too.

It's thrown codes for the tps.. stp.. ignition. Also a code for the servo which I expect to remain as it's disconnected.

I put it in dealer mode again and the codes remain even after reconnecting them.

C14, C29, C42.

Bikes running fine after reconnecting them all. Anybody know how to clear them?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, I pulled up that thread but unfortunately it didn't clear them. I'll call my dealer on Monday.
 

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C14 - THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
C29 - SECONDARY THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
C42 - IGNITION SWITCH SIGNAL

The larger font above is from a C & P from elsewhere.
I would expect have expected the last two to come up if you switched the key to on while the last 2 above were still disconnected. They should clear when reconnected when the STPS was plugged back into place, and the immobliser ring receiver put back on.

The C14 one would indicate that it out of the calibrated zone of voltages allowed by the ECU setting, otherwise it should not be alarming.

Cain, are you using a Woolich software package ? Could it be that you are seeing the historical event record rather than the current record, that remain's unless cleared ?

Rob.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
C14 - THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
C29 - SECONDARY THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
C42 - IGNITION SWITCH SIGNAL

The larger font above is from a C & P from elsewhere.
I would expect have expected the last two to come up if you switched the key to on while the last 2 above were still disconnected. They should clear when reconnected when the STPS was plugged back into place, and the immobliser ring receiver put back on.

The C14 one would indicate that it out of the calibrated zone of voltages allowed by the ECU setting, otherwise it should not be alarming.

Cain, are you using a Woolich software package ? Could it be that you are seeing the historical event record rather than the current record, that remain's unless cleared ?

Rob.
Thanks Rob.

I can only see the codes when i put it in dealer mode, this may be displaying past codes.
I attempted to start the bike with the tp sensor harness connected, not sure why it would throw a code as the lead should continue the loop.
While doing this i had to disconnect the STP to get access to the tps adjustment screw hence the c29.

I watched Pauls TPS adjustment video and i'm not sure how he started the bike with it disconnected, or maybe he disconnected while it was already
running, mine wouldn't start at all.

The procedure in the manual only requires the ignition to be on. I checked TPS, it and it was at 1.09
The manual states normal range of 1.10 to 1.14, Paul recommended 1.13
I'll set it at that today without the need to run the bike.

It's confusing as the constant flashing FI light was already there due to the code c46 exhaust valve, that i removed.
I'm riding it into the tuners this week, hopefully the woolich software can clear the codes.
If not i'll take it to my dealer and get them to clear it.

I have a 2 1/2 hour ride to the tuners and didn't want to risk anything. I can't see there being any mechanical issue despite the codes.
With everything connected again the bike runs fine.
 

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Hi Cain,
With my limited experience with the secondary TPS, the job that it does is to check for the correct operation of the STVA, the butterfly vane actuator motor that the ECU controls by itself. Your wrist controls the primary throttle body vane.
As far as I can tell there is no strict voltage range like the Primary Sensor, it's like more like the vane did move when told to move from open to shut and back again and report back that voltage for the ECU to compare.

C29 should be harder to bring up unless the harness is not fully clipped back in or the stepper actuator is at fail which is unlikely.
These things self check and reset when the ignition is first switched on and and speedo head does its thing.
When I set my TPS on the 1000 via -C00 in 2016, I fully removed the Sec TPS from the shaft (by error) and it is keyed with 2 flat sides so it really only goes on one way if you don't fiddle with the mating sensor middle shaft area.

Rob.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi Cain,
With my limited experience with the secondary TPS, the job that it does is to check for the correct operation of the STVA, the butterfly vane actuator motor that the ECU controls by itself. Your wrist controls the primary throttle body vane.
As far as I can tell there is no strict voltage range like the Primary Sensor, it's like more like the vane did move when told to move from open to shut and back again and report back that voltage for the ECU to compare.

C29 should be harder to bring up unless the harness is not fully clipped back in or the stepper actuator is at fail which is unlikely.
These things self check and reset when the ignition is first switched on and and speedo head does its thing.
When I set my TPS on the 1000 via -C00 in 2016, I fully removed the Sec TPS from the shaft (by error) and it is keyed with 2 flat sides so it really only goes on one way if you don't fiddle with the mating sensor middle shaft area.

Rob.
I am sensing that the codes I see in dealer mode are past codes as the bike wouldn't even start or run without tps or stp sensors working.

The manual does state a specific voltage range for the tp sensor for both open and closed throttle, I've now moved it from 1.09 to 1.13.

I'll ride it tomorrow and report back.
 

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Cainus83;394176[B said:
]I am sensing that the codes I see in dealer mode are past codes [/B]<<snipped>>

I'll ride it tomorrow and report back.
Sorry Cain,
Dealer mode, please explain what you are referring to.
The History code list is not readable or re settable via the mode with the single wire or paperclip shorting across the white plug terminals.
I would refer to "Dealer Mode" as using Woollich type Software or the old Suzuki SDS box.

Rob.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sorry Cain,
Dealer mode, please explain what you are referring to.
The History code list is not readable or re settable via the mode with the single wire or paperclip shorting across the white plug terminals.
I would refer to "Dealer Mode" as using Woollich type Software or the old Suzuki SDS box.

Rob.
Apologies, i guess you could called it basic diagnostics (wire across terminals).

Codes are still showing. I rode it a little over 80 kilometres today, mixture of highway and city and some serious speed thrown in.
I'll have it in the shop to be woolich tuned on Wednesday, i'm not worried about the codes for now.
I'm satisfied after the ride today that all things considered, it's running pretty well considering it still has stock fuel map.
220 kilometres ride to the tuner, i think the ride home will be even more enjoyable :D
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Further issues related to TPS/throttle.

During tuning on the dyno the bike would not fully close throttle, remaining at about 3%.
I would guess it's either the TPS position (though i changed it within specifications), or the fully closed learned value that was not reset.

Perhaps it's more important than i first thought, it is part of the procedure stated in the manual.
I'm taking it into my Suzuki dealer next week to have it reset and hopefully it clears the issue.
If not, ill adjust the TPS back to it's original position and go from there.
 

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Hi Cain,
I would suggest not altering the TPS again as you have set it to be in the correct range. 'Learned value' is not explained what that means in the Manual, so the 3% could be needing that reset seeing that you were out of the range to start with.
Saying that though, I would expected that from new, there would have been a code up with an FI light.
Any chance the throttle cable is too tightly adjusted and the grip is wound on by that 3% ? There is a built in 1 mm either way adjustable slop setting down at the TB end to stop that happening.
Unfortunately, with all fault finding, change only 1 thing at a time.

Rob.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi Cain,
I would suggest not altering the TPS again as you have set it to be in the correct range. 'Learned value' is not explained what that means in the Manual, so the 3% could be needing that reset seeing that you were out of the range to start with.
Saying that though, I would expected that from new, there would have been a code up with an FI light.
Any chance the throttle cable is too tightly adjusted and the grip is wound on by that 3% ? There is a built in 1 mm either way adjustable slop setting down at the TB end to stop that happening.
Unfortunately, with all fault finding, change only 1 thing at a time.

Rob.
I had a look at the cable slack at the TB when I did the procedure and it seemed correct. Given that I changed the tps setting and nothing else I'll try the learned value reset next week and eliminate one thing at a time.
 

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Hi Cain,
Dealer reset the codes OK yet ?
Not pushing that on you, but here's my experience today ending in a FI light that won't clear.
First up, I haven't checked the C code, by I know it's a front wheel sensor that is raising it's head.

I washed the 750 for the first time in June and all was good. That time I did the deed I air dried it with the leaf blower and ended up with that code for a while till it got it's first service where it was reset.
Same happened with the V Strom 1000 too, but that cleared up by itself after 3 days of short 2 hour rides. Leaf blower used too.

Today, I gave it a bath and a scrub and no blower. All good, no codes.
I put it up on the paddock stand, and ran it at idle for around 3 minutes or so to warm up. The bike in neutral and the front wheel stationary on the floor of course.
Put it into 2nd up to 6th on idle rev's and no FI light.
Then I revved it up to 5000 RPM fully throw the water out of the chain, and then the FI light popped up and stays on permanently after ignition is switched off and on several times.
The should be no active alarm when it's in neutral that is raising this FI light. The only light should be traction control and ABS lights that clear after riding off.

I know your issue is not what I've raised here, but I think there is similar issue with the what should be now corrected codes not flushing themselves away after ignition on and the ECU re loading the program and testing all the sensor's.
So the same thing happening on 2 of my Suzuki bikes which all use the same software 3 times now. There's a bug somewhere in the black box.
Wonder if anyone here wants to test it and end up with a FI light too for the Team ?

Rob.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hi Cain,
Dealer reset the codes OK yet ?
Not pushing that on you, but here's my experience today ending in a FI light that won't clear.
First up, I haven't checked the C code, by I know it's a front wheel sensor that is raising it's head.

I washed the 750 for the first time in June and all was good. That time I did the deed I air dried it with the leaf blower and ended up with that code for a while till it got it's first service where it was reset.
Same happened with the V Strom 1000 too, but that cleared up by itself after 3 days of short 2 hour rides. Leaf blower used too.

Today, I gave it a bath and a scrub and no blower. All good, no codes.
I put it up on the paddock stand, and ran it at idle for around 3 minutes or so to warm up. The bike in neutral and the front wheel stationary on the floor of course.
Put it into 2nd up to 6th on idle rev's and no FI light.
Then I revved it up to 5000 RPM fully throw the water out of the chain, and then the FI light popped up and stays on permanently after ignition is switched off and on several times.
The should be no active alarm when it's in neutral that is raising this FI light. The only light should be traction control and ABS lights that clear after riding off.

I know your issue is not what I've raised here, but I think there is similar issue with the what should be now corrected codes not flushing themselves away after ignition on and the ECU re loading the program and testing all the sensor's.
So the same thing happening on 2 of my Suzuki bikes which all use the same software 3 times now. There's a bug somewhere in the black box.
Wonder if anyone here wants to test it and end up with a FI light too for the Team ?

Rob.
Hi Rob.

I had the codes removed at least from being displayed on the dash during the woolich tune. He couldn't remove them from stored codes and I suspect that it's due to the required tps reset procedure or the tps is indeed out of spec despite the readings on my multimeter.

I believe if the tps was out the FI light would remain and it hasn't come back for which I'm grateful.

I'm having the closed learned position reset at my suzuki dealer tomorrow and I will report back with my findings.
 

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I just did TPS adjustment few days ago, I tested it anyway and decided to not change it as it was at 1.100 exactly and bike was fine, upon putting everything back together it had a F1 code, I was so mad because I already put it all back together, and all I did was unclip/reclip 2 connections. I disconnected battery for an hour, turned bike on. The code was still there, I turned bike off for 10 minutes, restarted it, the code was gone.

I skimmed over most the comments, but id try it.
 

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I just did TPS adjustment few days ago, I tested it anyway and decided to not change it as it was at 1.100 exactly and bike was fine, upon putting everything back together it had a F1 code, I was so mad because I already put it all back together, and all I did was unclip/reclip 2 connections. I disconnected battery for an hour, turned bike on. The code was still there, I turned bike off for 10 minutes, restarted it, the code was gone.

I skimmed over most the comments, but id try it.
Hi PW,
Last time around I disconnected the battery for a good 2 hours and it did not go away by itself.
The Dealer workshop Guys reset it at the first service. If the weather is fair (shower or two forecast) I'll check it again on the road sooner or later. It could have cleared today, I haven't looked at it.
No big deal, it is just a nuisance software bug from Suzuki.

Rob.
 

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FI light up still this morning. Rode for 15 minutes and it would not clear by ign sw off and on.
Rode for another 30 minutes, same. Rode home for 45 minutes, and the FI still up.
In the garage, it cleared after a ign sw off/on.
I am wondering if the output of the ECU stays up or the speedo head unit doesn't drop out when all is good.
Anyway all good now (next ride will tell, but I am 99.99% sure it's reset itself).

Rob.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I have no FI light after my flash though the stored TPS and exhaust valve codes are logged.

The Suzuki technician attempted to reset the closed learned value but for some unknown reason it would not work.
The tuner also had difficulty last week with the TPS code and could not clear it from the memory.
I called him about the exhaust valve and it had been cleared though he said some bikes have a memory bug and it will persist in the stored memory.

I'm going to set the TP to the original position and voltage this weekend and take it in to Suzuki next week to attempt the TP reset again.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I've set the TP sensor to it's original position and my Suzuki dealer had no problem this time resetting the fully closed learned value.
I didn't feel much of a difference, if any, in the throttle response either way.

There were no dash codes and i believe the code history is also now empty.
 
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