GSXS 1000 Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello!

After more than 4 years owning a F (6y riding experience), I feel I could really use more powa! The bike has good powa already, it’s just that I am now used to it and sometimes feel slightly bored while at high RPM WOT. ;) Especially when it’s hot and humid outside. I used to always feel the bike had plenty of powa! Looking to improve all rpms, but when there is a choice, I always pick high rpm hp over mid range hp (that’s just me). In case you wonder, a super sport is out of the question for me due to the too agressive riding position and the ridiculous registration cost here in Quebec (more than double). The only other current bike I could be interrested in is the tuono at 175 hp. But having NO storage room at all bugs me a lot. I ride/travel very light, generally with no extra luggage for 1-3 days ride, but I do need a little like my F gives me. I don’t want to carry a backpack either. The other thing is the tuono is good looking, but typically a bit too flashy for me. So ya, I am sticking with my F!

So I think I’ll go ahead with changing the exhuaust, a flash, and lowered gearing. GSXR cams could come later but I’ll be sticking with the simpler stuff for now in the hope it will be enough for me. Today I ordered the black widow full system with 360 mm muffler length as a start point. The price is reasonable so, although I don’t expect the header itself to give much powa over stock, the decat, less restrictive exhaust and deleted exhaust ‘modulator’ will help. Especially with the re-flash and stock ecu limtations removed. I don’t think any header commonly available really have the R&D invested in it to make it that great. So going black widow just to remove the cat makes sense and allows me to keep my stock system functional. In case I want to go back or the next owner wants it. That’s important to me and was a deal breaker selling point with my previous bike (being fully stock).

I am hoping the 360 mm exhaust will be sounding sportier than stock, but not too loud. If it sounds like the 14 inch (355 mm) holshot exhaust vid, it should be good. I rev the thing a lot on the streets, more than most. There is no point for me to gain 1-2 hp more for the thing to be loud to the point I hesitate to rev it. There is also a 400mm version available from black widow that made me hesitate, but I feel it looks huge, 360mm appeared a good compromise. I am hoping 360mm will be sounding ‘reasonably’ loud at high load/rev when used without db silencer. I prefer that option over going with shorter exhaust and use the db killer. I don’t know about this specific exhaust system, but I had an exhaust db silencer on my built car (cams, i/im/e/h, programmable ecu, wideband, etc.) and it really felt like I was losing a good 10 hp using it. It was affecting my AFR big time so I know it was not just in my head. So I am not a big fan of these that basically reduce the pipe diameter at the very end. Db killers can be drilled but anyways, I believe adding some muffler length is the best way to meet my powr/sound level goal (with probably ~1-2hp sacrifice over a stupidly loud system).

I guess we shall see!!

This is the system I am buying:


The only other mod I currently have is the intake plate removal and a fully removed stock end can (which has very little effect on a stock system). I also just put a new stock (but slightly modified) air filter, spark plugs, fresh synthetic oil and checked the valves clearance myself. Slightly annoyed about the amount of work needed to just get to remove the valve cover (compared to a car), but ready for the next step now!!

Cheers!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalkm
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
248 Posts
hi, i beleive the black widow is as good a choice as most, it can be improved alot with a relatively easy mod (for an exhaust specialist), as stock it retains the mid-range dip in power / torque, also yheir pipe reducing connector to the tailpipe limits top end power over what is avail without it, i put a write up on these mods in "exhaust systems and torque variations" , enjoy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
219 Posts
My Dyno tuner advised me that a longer can or link pipe from the header helps the GSXS acheive more power at upper revs. Not sure if 360-400mm is considered long.

I had my limiter raised to 12,200 but rarely use it preferring the 6-10k band, may as well ride a diesel LOL ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
My Dyno tuner advised me that a longer can or link pipe from the header helps the GSXS acheive more power at upper revs. Not sure if 360-400mm is considered long.

I had my limiter raised to 12,200 but rarely use it preferring the 6-10k band, may as well ride a diesel LOL ;)
Lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks ‘kiwi’! I didn’t recall about the tailpipe limitation, I’ll take a second look at your thread! Hopefully I can modify it myself without bringing it to a shop. I do plan on smoothing out any excessive soldering etc.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Got the BW system! Overall looks good, inside Welding cleanup is my first TODO. Although theyr are not too bad.

I did some measurements on BW. Does anyone know what the primaries size on the stock header is? I think BW is bigger.

Happy to see they increased pipe diameter along with merge/flow. I was afrraid they would use a single pipe size. It even looks like 1 pipe increases diameter gradually after the final merge, just a few mm gradually over 7-8 inch, sort of like a small megaphone. Sounds good to me! Merges look better than I expected.

As for the 51mm OD to 45 mm OD bottlneck on the tail pipe junction, too bad, that will have to be modified eventually. I wonder if they could have made it this way to avoid afr retune (stock 2nd muffler is that same size when leaving gasket in). At least it’s a simple modification for a welder.

Temp kiwi!? Lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Few more questions after reading instructions. Did everyone really had to remove (partially) the radiator back shock and front pegs? It is more than I thought. Also do we apply exhaust paste on all junctions (except at the head I think)?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
When i put a full M4 on mine I did not use paste as they are a tight fit, no need. I did undo the radiator so i could move it out of the way a bit but that was it.
Otherwise you can get at everything without moving.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
When i put a full M4 on mine I did not use paste as they are a tight fit, no need. I did undo the radiator so i could move it out of the way a bit but that was it.
Otherwise you can get at everything without moving.
K, so you needed to disconnect radiator hoses, not just push it aside? It’s just easier if not needed, but no big deal. Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
248 Posts
yes put paste on the sleeve fit joints, only on the male side, radiator is best removed so the headers are clamoed squarely to the head, you drain it off waterpump hose first, lightly fit headers, slip secondary pies on , then the tailpipe, push the bracket up and spike a screwdriver through the mt hole to get it to level with bolt hole, you shouldnt have to remove shock, once all mting bolts are located tighten header clamps first - evenly, crushing the gaskets. then you can tap the secondry tubes with a plastic hamer to get the sleeves fully in to the pipes, clamp the mts, install muffler
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
No you do not -have- to disconnect hoses, just unbolt so you can move a bit. Gives you that little extra room & helps

sorry i did not clarify the 1st post.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top