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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone, just purchased an immaculate 2016 gsxs with just under 9200 miles. The bike is amazing, I absolutely love it...but I'm having an issue with the brakes pulsating at low speeds. Very noticeable at slow speeds but not so much during high-speed braking. It really starts to occur when braking under 50mph. Now I've had this issue before with my drz and a simple swap of the pads fixed the issue. The original Brembo pads didn't brake well in my opinion so I figured swapping them out would kill two birds with one stone. Picked up some EBC HH, and sanded the rotors with emery sandpaper, braking was much stronger but the pulsating was still there, maybe even slightly worse. I checked the rotors and measured at each bobbin point and it was even all the way around on both sides. I then noticed the bobbins were quite tight and there wasn't much play compared to my previous bikes. I cleaned and spun them around a little to free them up, but I actually don't think these OEM rotors are supposed to have that sort of play, maybe someone can chime in. I then checked the pistons to see if maybe one of them was stuck, I was doubtful as the bike is low mileage and relatively new. All pistons are engaging. I re-bled the brakes, realigned the wheel and forks to make sure everything was nice and straight, still no fix.

At this point, I'm kind of stumped. I can try balancing the wheel, but I doubt that is the issue. The suspension has been set up, so that's ruled out. I have a hunch that the rotors might still be the culprit, I'll probably take it to a shop to have them take a look, and get the runout properly measured. Maybe they were overheated and glazed by the previous owner, but I can't really tell.

If anyone was any ideas or experienced it yourself, let me know.
 

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my problem was the other way around,, just at high speed hard braking had new pads .....rotors where the problem....my dealer shop sxcks
 

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I have a hunch that the rotors might still be the culprit, I'll probably take it to a shop to have them take a look, and get the runout properly measured. Maybe they were overheated and glazed by the previous owner, but I can't really tell.
sounds like a warped rotor to me
 

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I had a similar problem but it was intermittent at slow speeds. I tried almost everything you did but in the end it was just a pesky air bubble in the brake lines. A good bleed and tieing down the brake lever overnight worked for me. Since then, I bleed the brakes regularly and when i take the front calipers off for cleaning and whatnot, which is pretty often. Speedbleeders make it really easy.

Just curious, are your pads wearing evenly?
 

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I'll probably take it to a shop to have them take a look, and get the runout properly measured.
To really know what you have, measuring runout is the only way. Horror Freight has a dial indicator listed for $16. You can measure the actual runout yourself at your convenience, instead of taking it somewhere.
1 In. Travel Machinist's Dial Indicator
Service manual lists 0.012" inch as maximum runout.

FWIW, a couple years ago, I changed rotors on my wife's Pathfinder because of pulsing. The most runout I measured was .004" on one disc, I think .002 on another. Changed those two and the pulsing went away. YMMV.
 

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Hi, by any chance can you please post model/number of speedbleeders you’re used.

Thanks

I had a similar problem but it was intermittent at slow speeds. I tried almost everything you did but in the end it was just a pesky air bubble in the brake lines. A good bleed and tieing down the brake lever overnight worked for me. Since then, I bleed the brakes regularly and when i take the front calipers off for cleaning and whatnot, which is pretty often. Speedbleeders make it really easy.

Just curious, are your pads wearing evenly?
 

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Are they all the same? Front/front master cylinder/rear?
The OEM bleeders for the front master cylinder and rear caliper have shorter nipples than the front calipers but SB8125L will still fit. The thread size are the same. I think SB8125 is just a shorter version of the bleeder and would be an identical replacement for them. I didn't realize that until after I ordered 4 of the L type.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I had a similar problem but it was intermittent at slow speeds. I tried almost everything you did but in the end it was just a pesky air bubble in the brake lines. A good bleed and tieing down the brake lever overnight worked for me. Since then, I bleed the brakes regularly and when i take the front calipers off for cleaning and whatnot, which is pretty often. Speedbleeders make it really easy.

Just curious, are your pads wearing evenly?
Hmm, Ill have to give the brake lever a shot, and perhaps re-bleed the brakes using my brake pump.
They look to be wearing evenly
 

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Discussion Starter #12
To really know what you have, measuring runout is the only way. Horror Freight has a dial indicator listed for $16. You can measure the actual runout yourself at your convenience, instead of taking it somewhere.
1 In. Travel Machinist's Dial Indicator
Service manual lists 0.012" inch as maximum runout.

FWIW, a couple years ago, I changed rotors on my wife's Pathfinder because of pulsing. The most runout I measured was .004" on one disc, I think .002 on another. Changed those two and the pulsing went away. YMMV.
That sounds like high spots on the rotors, replace rotors and new pads. Job done
Yeah, will probably end up picking one up. Looks like any sort of runout will cause pulsating then.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
That sounds like high spots on the rotors, replace rotors and new pads. Job done
You might be right. I'd really hate to have to buy new rotors since I just got this bike. Those **** things ain't cheap aha
 

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I got a question. What is the difference between the speed bleeders and the OEM caliper bleeders? Except for the size being longer, it does not look like there is any functional difference. Like I expected in integrated check valve for instance. But that does not appear to be the case.
 

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I got a question. What is the difference between the speed bleeders and the OEM caliper bleeders? Except for the size being longer, it does not look like there is any functional difference. Like I expected in integrated check valve for instance. But that does not appear to be the case.
There’s a built in check valve.
The Speed Bleeder homepage has an image of the internals. That’s where I got mine.

 
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