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Discussion Starter #1
this bike is my first bike ive ever had and i just started riding this year starting in april. i love this bike!

mods:

-1 front sprockets
woolich software with autotune i have been tuning myself, de-restricted and timing advanced 2 degrees from 9000-12000rpm
danos quickshifter
k&n filter with airbox plate delete
M4 header with a leovince muffler from a K5 gixxer 1000

ran a best time and trap speed of 10.6 at 137.6mph with a 2.1 60 foot.. my 60 foot was horrible, i couldnt launch it good. with a solid launch, easy low 10's and on a day with nice cool weather i am hoping to get 140mph trap this summer

it was a hot day, it reached 92F without humidex and density altitude was 2947ft

i will try to upload the slip soon and maybe a video, unfortunately the vide was a bad run, it was my 6th run and the bike just got too hot and dropped to 133mph trap speed
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I would say. Every video I have seen most people only dow high 120's low 130's trap speed. Either they cant ride or my mods are working very well or it's a factory freak lol. I'm also a 200pound rider unsuited
 

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Nice times and yeah this bike rips eh? What track btw?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
St thomas dragway in ontario. It rips but I want it faster lol I am aiming 140mph by fall.

Hopefully a 520 conversion and ceramic bearings, more seat time and nice weather will get me there
 

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When you did the Woolich software & autotune...does it delete the traction control? Or do you just turn it off??

How about the secondary throttle bodies?? Removed them or just reprogramed?

How many runs you get before the clutch gets destroyed?

I've only got 11,000 km's on my bike, of street riding, and I can feel the clutch plates not having smooth engagement anymore.

I would imagine launching at a track would warp the disc's after about 10-15 runs
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It doesn't delete traction control. I always have mine turned off. I didnt remove the secondaries I just reprogrammed so they are 100% open. I got 6 runs in and clutch was still ok but I dont recommend back to back runs like I did otherwise they can burn up.
 

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Good job!

So you are saying you had significant/obvious poor trap speed/E.T. due to heat in 1 run?

I ask because, these days more than before (after 4y owning the bike), I feel significant power drop at times. It usually later comes back, so not permanent, and it doesn’t seem linear, more like it pulls good or not even close. I never punch it before proper warmup. I thought it was in my head or perhaps spark plugs or bad gas, but I don’t think so now. This Summer is exceptionally hot/humid here. I am hoping the bike is all good, it should be given a pretty thorough maintenance reccently (valve lash check, spark plugs/air filter/oil replacement, etc.). Bike is almost stock still. I think my observations are due to heat/humidity including heat caused by leaving the bike at rest for 5-10 minutes without running/fan/etc. Perhaps the stock map is already lean and on the edge, the additionnal heat/humidity may make the ecu pull timing or use another mean to restrict power (such as close the secondary throttle plates maybe).

Doing an exhaust soon and probably a flash after. Not sure if I should be affraid of running the exhaust without a flash in this context. Wish I had a wideband installed!


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Discussion Starter #10
Good job!

So you are saying you had significant/obvious poor trap speed/E.T. due to heat in 1 run?

I ask because, these days more than before (after 4y owning the bike), I feel significant power drop at times. It usually later comes back, so not permanent, and it doesn’t seem linear, more like it pulls good or not even close. I never punch it before proper warmup. I thought it was in my head or perhaps spark plugs or bad gas, but I don’t think so now. This Summer is exceptionally hot/humid here. I am hoping the bike is all good, it should be given a pretty thorough maintenance reccently (valve lash check, spark plugs/air filter/oil replacement, etc.). Bike is almost stock still. I think my observations are due to heat/humidity including heat caused by leaving the bike at rest for 5-10 minutes without running/fan/etc. Perhaps the stock map is already lean and on the edge, the additionnal heat/humidity may make the ecu pull timing or use another mean to restrict power (such as close the secondary throttle plates maybe).

Doing an exhaust soon and probably a flash after. Not sure if I should be affraid of running the exhaust without a flash in this context. Wish I had a wideband installed!


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weather has a HUGE impact on a bike/car./trucks performance. some days when the weather is hot, humidity is up and barometric pressure is low my bike is much noticeably slower. the one day i went to the track but couldnt run it cause someone had crashed the weather was absolutely perfect, its was cold, the barometer was i think 104kpa and humidity was 20%, my bike ripped hard, power wheeling 2nd no problems.

my 1st run was 137.6mph
2nd run was about 135
3rd was 134

my 6th run went down to 133mph yes from the heat. i am stretching my bike about 4-5 inches - i got all parts on order. i will go back on a cool day and probably trailer the bike there to make the first run on a 'cool' bike to hopefully crack 140mph.
 

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Looking good, like a pro!

Ya for sure temp has an impact. I have seen up to about 1 sec at the quarter mile (car) on different days. I feel that too with the bike. Just it’s usually pretty linear. Nowadays, it looks like my bike does not behave linearily with air temp, but perhaps water temp throws it off like 10% and then it comes back ok minutes after. Something like that but I haven’t explained it fully yet. Could be in my head. I’d like to know so I can try to avoid in my future flash. If it really has to fo it to be safe, then I guess so be it!

Still I advise to make sure to give the bike a proper warmup and not do a pass all cold just for the sake of a fast run. Oil can need 3x times longer than prestone to warm up (based on car experience). And even sometimes never reach proper temperature under low load when around 0 Celcius! I wish oil temp was available. Oil needs heat for proper protection. That’s the secret of a long lasting performance engine imo. You can gun it, and I even strongly suggest anyone to do it from day 1 (the earlier the better) as a break in, but only with proper oil temp. Getting of topic now!


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Speaking of proper oil temps, one of the things I really like about this bike is the liquid-cooled oil cooler. The oi cooler transfers heat to the engine coolant, and vice versa. So not only does it keep the oil at a closely controlled temp after the engine warms up, it also warms the oil up quickly when the motor is started from a cold state. As soon as the engine coolant warms up (which is very quick on my bike) the oil cooler transfers that heat to the oil. So our oil is maintained at the proper temp all the time, regardless of ambient outside temperature.

I really, really like that.
 

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True that oil cooler helps both ways in theory, but how do you know how effective it is? (W/o oil temp, I personally don’t know)


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A liquid-to-liquid heat exchanger is one of the most effective methods of thermal transfer available. It's the same arrangement used to cool nuclear reactors.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
oil will still get very hot even when liquid cooled through the engines coolant. my truck (17 ram 1500) oil is also cooled via the oil filter block from the engines coolant. when towing my 6000lb boat the coolant temps remain stable at 92c but depending if i am going up a hill or merging on a highway the engine oil temp can rise upwards of 115-116c. i would imagine in a bike that has less than 4L of oil that lubricates the trans, clutch and engine it can get pretty **** hot after revving out to 12000rpm on a day you swear makes you sterile
 

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116 degrees C is 241 F. That's the lower-middle of the recommended operating temperature range (230-260 F) for conventional oil.

 

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116 degrees C is 241 F. That's the lower-middle of the recommended operating temperature range (230-260 F) for conventional oil.

Exactly! On cars at least, In cool weather and low load on the highway, sometimes you could never get up to temp! The issue is if you snap it at that time, even if you have been driving for 2h, your engine is not protected properly. Short term, you’ll be fine. Long term, you may not notice it, but you may lose power, fuel/oil consumption, etc. So we could say that an excellent power adder to an engine is ... to take good care of it! I drive my engines hard, but I’m very strict on temp. So ya, if you punch it right out of the parking lot in the morning, I hope you like a puffy engine!

I think I remember oil range starting at 210-220F though, I’d have to check. With my car, on cool days, i have to gradualy increase load to get to temp and avoid abruptly punching it at 140-150F. Otherwize, it never gets passed 160F if I just drive n wait. Canadian winter must be pretty bad (i have no oil temp gauge on my winter car), but fall/spring is already making it hard sometimes.

That’s why, personally, I think every engine should have oil temp gauge. The water temp is really misleading when considering engine protection, especially on warmup. And lots of people have no idea.

I’d be curious to see how the gsxs oil temp behaves see if I could shorten my warmup drive.


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