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Discussion Starter #1
After 17000km and hating the jerky throttle I decided to do something about it (I know I'm a procrastinator) I've read about all the fixes, TPS,ECU flash,TRE etc, but I have an easier fix, costs nothing and takes about 3 minutes.
GSXS1000F
Here's what I did
Remove the pillion seat and locate diagnostic plug
Remove cap on plug and using a piece of thin wire,a paper clip will do,bridge the 2 bottom pins
Turn on the ignition and you will notice the diagnostic icon on the instrument panel
The bar should be in the central position
Turn the throttle to the full open position, don't start the bike, the bar will go to the top position, hold there for a couple of seconds
Turn off ignition
Repeat, I did it 3 times but you might only have to do it once
Remove the wire
Start the bike, I immediately noticed a difference in the exhaust note
Rode out of my driveway and the throttle was more responsive and felt like it had more torque
Rode along a very rough and bumpy road that would previously have the throttle going from off to on and was a real PIA but now I am able to hold a steady throttle
Tried riding 5th gear 40km/hr, smooth and steady and will accelerate easily
Thought i'd give it a run through the mountain twisties, what a difference, back off the throttle no more feeling like you've just opened a parachute, just normal engine braking then smooth acceleration through the corners.
Previously I hated this bike and was going to sell it even though I would have taken a huge financial hit, now I love it and can't stay off it.
Many will be skeptical of this, but it worked so well for me, I've been riding bikes for over 62 years and I've never had such a huge performance improvement for such little efffort or cost
Try it, what have you got to lose?
 

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But as you say below this only works if the throttle is in the Central position - If its further out it needs adjusting first as the learned value only has a very small range of adjustment

After 17000km and hating the jerky throttle I decided to do something about it (I know I'm a procrastinator) I've read about all the fixes, TPS,ECU flash,TRE etc, but I have an easier fix, costs nothing and takes about 3 minutes.
GSXS1000F
Here's what I did
Remove the pillion seat and locate diagnostic plug
Remove cap on plug and using a piece of thin wire,a paper clip will do,bridge the 2 bottom pins
Turn on the ignition and you will notice the diagnostic icon on the instrument panel
The bar should be in the central position
Turn the throttle to the full open position, don't start the bike, the bar will go to the top position, hold there for a couple of seconds
Turn off ignition
Repeat, I did it 3 times but you might only have to do it once
Remove the wire
Start the bike, I immediately noticed a difference in the exhaust note
Rode out of my driveway and the throttle was more responsive and felt like it had more torque
Rode along a very rough and bumpy road that would previously have the throttle going from off to on and was a real PIA but now I am able to hold a steady throttle
Tried riding 5th gear 40km/hr, smooth and steady and will accelerate easily
Thought i'd give it a run through the mountain twisties, what a difference, back off the throttle no more feeling like you've just opened a parachute, just normal engine braking then smooth acceleration through the corners.
Previously I hated this bike and was going to sell it even though I would have taken a huge financial hit, now I love it and can't stay off it.
Many will be skeptical of this, but it worked so well for me, I've been riding bikes for over 62 years and I've never had such a huge performance improvement for such little efffort or cost
Try it, what have you got to lose?
 

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You know what's funny about your post is that today I was checking on my 17 model for the tps setting and on the dash is displayed the coo but no line apparently the 17 18 models don't have the adjustment and I was just checking things.
So I'm there twisting the throttle back and forth thinking maybe something is out of whack as there is no little line to speak of so about 1/2 hour later I go for a ride and start thinking I must be getting used to the twitchy throttle but then I see your post it's got me �� Thinking.
 

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Sounds great - but what made you do this 3 times? Was it something you were looking/listening for? I want to try this fix before I start spending money! Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No, only reason I did it 3 times was to see if it changed the position of the bar, which it didn't, may work if you do it once I don't know but it only takes seconds
 

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Discussion Starter #12
well Suzuki don't seem to to want to tell their dealers how to do it and why are they replacing the ECUs under warranty if the problem can be fixed so easy. I'm no computer expert but the ECU is a computer just like your smart phone, although the phone is much more sophisticated, if you have a problem with your phone the first thing you do is reboot it, so to me it makes sense to reboot the ECU. Now as for the procedure well I just chanced on this, is it the proper procedure? I don't know, but it works. With computer systems there are procedures for clearing fault codes so there will be a procedure for doing this
 

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I turned off the ignition while holding the throttle open
ok thanks...so yours started in middle and stayed in middle when done....when opening my throttle it started on bottom...then when opening would jump to top...i didnt shut of ignition while on top line fully open.......so are we saying its possible if i do this ,when done i could be on middle position
 

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Discussion Starter #14
ok thanks...so yours started in middle and stayed in middle when done....when opening my throttle it started on bottom...then when opening would jump to top...i didnt shut of ignition while on top line fully open.......so are we saying its possible if i do this ,when done i could be on middle position
Yep, mine started in the middle which is supposed to be correct but my bike was a pig to ride.
Don't know if it will make any difference but I had the traction control turned off.
Went for another ride today through the twisty mountain road,(about 60km of bends,1 way, then turn around) bike is an absolute joy to ride, no sudden hit at 6500 revs just smooth strong acceleration right up to the red
 

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It will be interesting to see what others say after your idea Bob.
After reading your post I did the same as your method but haven't ridden the bike yet but it was interesting that my bike seemed better just after playing with the throttle.
 

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We've been down this track before here. Forgotten it Stocky ? This particular Suzuki feature has been around for Donkey Year's.
I found another one a few years back by myself when fault finding, where the ignition coil current doesn't flow, but it goes through the rest of the start up procedure but doesn't flatten the battery by coil current. The fuel pump doesn't pump either. Don't ask, I've forgotten it.
There are probably a few presses of a switch and something else to do different actions like a TV and it's remote control in service mode.

Rob.
 

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You know what's funny about your post is that today I was checking on my 17 model for the tps setting and on the dash is displayed the coo but no line apparently the 17 18 models don't have the adjustment and I was just checking things.
So I'm there twisting the throttle back and forth thinking maybe something is out of whack as there is no little line to speak of so about 1/2 hour later I go for a ride and start thinking I must be getting used to the twitchy throttle but then I see your post it's got me �� Thinking.


Hi Jeff. Did you manage to get it sorted?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Can anybody explain what would be happening here using this method?
Would it benefit the later bikes 18/19 models? Is it best to check the TPS first or is
this to be used in conjunction with the TPS voltage parameters?

I love results but prefer them to be based in science and logic.
 

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Can anybody explain what would be happening here using this method?
Would it benefit the later bikes 18/19 models? Is it best to check the TPS first or is
this to be used in conjunction with the TPS voltage parameters?

I love results but prefer them to be based in science and logic.
AFAIK and I too prefer science and logic.....

The TPS should first be set correctly using preferably the voltage method (or the less accurate dash method can be used on older bikes). The learned value is then reset using either Suzuki SDS, Healtech OBD or Woolich racing or the method described below.

If the TPS is readjusted or replaced then the learned value should be reset again.

The learned value is an offset to overcome the effects of voltage drift over time rather than the way to set TPS, thus when adjusting TPS you reset the offset back to 0
 

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Hello Old Bob,


If this works you're like Moses with the tablets; I would like to try it, but I would appreciate a photo of the diagnostic plug; even a diagram would help. I just don't want to short something else out.


cheers


Steve
 
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