LOVE the bike, but.... side fairings are a PITA to deal with.
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I haven't tried this yet but are the manual's instructions any help?
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Marginally helpful. I think maybe they were translated from Japanese to Chinese to English.
I always wondered why someone would change the motor oil and not change the filter. Now I know! The owner's manual scheduled maintenance calls for a filter change every other oil change and I know I wont do it more frequently.
I always wondered why someone would change the motor oil and not change the filter. Now I know! The owner's manual scheduled maintenance calls for a filter change every other oil change and I know I wont do it more frequently.
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no need to completely remove the fairing to get at the oil filter. remove the clips down where left and right side fairings connect on the bottom, will allow enough room to replace filter
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Go to page 71 of this document. HUGE help... No GSXS owner should be without it.
http://www.crservice.dk/Suzuki_mc/GSX-S1000/GSX-S1000A_FA_L6_Technical_Service _Information.pdf
I practiced taking the fairings on and off ten times and now I can do it in ten minutes.
Oh, and changing the oil without changing the filter is like taking a dump and not wiping you a**,
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I leave the old oil draining for longer than that.
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Great tip. I'll be doing it that way when mine comes around for it.
Not much help for someone with the fairing already off though:laugh:
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UPDATE: Well I did get both fairings back on. 1) line up the front tab, 2) rotate around an imaginary axis comprised of the top edge, 3) slide backwards (while pushing inwards) onto the tabs on the radiator, 4) and finish with a swirl.
Sorry for the rant. I guess it did not help that its 90 degrees F in my garage (for you celsius guys 90-32=58*5/9=32.2C)
I believe Mythic when he says he does an oil and filter change in 30 minutes, but I think he is a motorcycle mechanic. It is not so easy for an accountant. But I did get the PCV installed and it was so worth the effort.
Sorry for the rant. I guess it did not help that its 90 degrees F in my garage (for you celsius guys 90-32=58*5/9=32.2C)
I believe Mythic when he says he does an oil and filter change in 30 minutes, but I think he is a motorcycle mechanic. It is not so easy for an accountant. But I did get the PCV installed and it was so worth the effort.
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These fairings are a PITA to deal with, it's as if Suzuki intentionally engineered it to be as difficult as possible to work with.
I just changed my oil. I took off all the screws and clips on the left fairing as the manual says and the fairing would still not come off, looks like there were more clips that needed to be unhooked but I didn't want to pull too hard and break something. Then I realized I could bend the fairing out of the way just enough to access the filter so I did it that way.
I just changed my oil. I took off all the screws and clips on the left fairing as the manual says and the fairing would still not come off, looks like there were more clips that needed to be unhooked but I didn't want to pull too hard and break something. Then I realized I could bend the fairing out of the way just enough to access the filter so I did it that way.
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Well done Rusty.
A little warmth in the garage is a good thing. I did mine the first time in the cold of winter and was terrified the plastic was going to snap.
Not a fun exorcise the first time but it gets easier. I also stick a bit of gaffer tape on each side of my tank and have filed the sharp edges off the two screw clips nearest the tank too, just in case
A little warmth in the garage is a good thing. I did mine the first time in the cold of winter and was terrified the plastic was going to snap.
Not a fun exorcise the first time but it gets easier. I also stick a bit of gaffer tape on each side of my tank and have filed the sharp edges off the two screw clips nearest the tank too, just in case
You must not be removing the fill cap before draining, it makes it drain way quicker.I leave the old oil draining for longer than that.
What I do now is take cellphone pictures if I see something that looks complicated to remind me later how put it all back later or especially next day.
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Of course I do, what I mean is I try to get as much old oil out as possible.
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Glad I looked at this thread lots of handy information there in that pdf. Wish I could find the service manual in pdf. Thanks man!
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I had a hard time deciding between the naked and the F. A really hard time...as in both bikes were side by side at the dealer, sales guy knew i was going to buy one of them....but I kept him hanging for at least 30 minutes while I struggled with the decision.
One of biggest reasons I finally decided on the naked was ease of service on the front of the bike.
Every thread like this makes me feel good about my decision
One of biggest reasons I finally decided on the naked was ease of service on the front of the bike.
Every thread like this makes me feel good about my decision
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Hey Rusty, glad you got it
Plus as you noticed it's also the bit of an angle of the section towards the rear that helps lining up the front as the top screw hole section below the dash gets pulled back while clipping the radiator tabs. THE SILICONE SURE MAKES IT EASIER (for my self it works great).
The first time that i did it it was also a bit challenging, but as time has gone by i find it extremely easy. Just like anything else that we practice (had a previous post about not letting the fairings keep any one from getting the F.)
The reason that i prefer to remove the entire fairing, including the right side for the plugs, coolant, etc.. (including air filter). Is that i like to clean the engine (all the road crap/tar residue, etc., and inspect the wiring for any type of damage/being to close to heat,etc).
There has been a previous thread (i think it was by Jeffro) about the fairings and some one that had an issue with the right side coupling (electrical to the dash). I did post a few photos including extra protection around the coupling due to commuting in the rain. Note: photo below of reconnecting the coupling with the fairing removed is to run the engine/able to see dash without the fairing (this member had an issue of no dash power).
Cold weather: Also use a heat gun (great to heat up the tires as well when changing them on the ground with spoons) during the bit of cold weather that we get in the winter, it makes a huge difference.
The manual: none of the bikes manuals are simple, even too many mechanics, (Italian manuals are worst/to my self) so for us that do the work our selves it sure can get a bit frustrating at times, especially when pressing for time.
Am sure that i'm not the only one here that has other manuals way worst than this one.
To be fair, for example this manual mentions placing the cloth between the tank to avoid scratching (it may be in the little one, not sure right now as i type)
Some one had mentioned taking photos, and video: Absolutely a great way to take notes, and even recording some sections of the process (have deleted most of mine, after learning the process).
Hope this helps does interested.
Have a great New Year!
Hey Rusty, glad you got it. Next time just use a little silicone spray on the edges (and any other clip section as needed) of the parts such as at the front of the side piece along the edges (head light section), and it slips together real easy.
Plus as you noticed it's also the bit of an angle of the section towards the rear that helps lining up the front as the top screw hole section below the dash gets pulled back while clipping the radiator tabs. THE SILICONE SURE MAKES IT EASIER (for my self it works great).
The first time that i did it it was also a bit challenging, but as time has gone by i find it extremely easy. Just like anything else that we practice (had a previous post about not letting the fairings keep any one from getting the F.)
The reason that i prefer to remove the entire fairing, including the right side for the plugs, coolant, etc.. (including air filter). Is that i like to clean the engine (all the road crap/tar residue, etc., and inspect the wiring for any type of damage/being to close to heat,etc).
There has been a previous thread (i think it was by Jeffro) about the fairings and some one that had an issue with the right side coupling (electrical to the dash). I did post a few photos including extra protection around the coupling due to commuting in the rain. Note: photo below of reconnecting the coupling with the fairing removed is to run the engine/able to see dash without the fairing (this member had an issue of no dash power).
Cold weather: Also use a heat gun (great to heat up the tires as well when changing them on the ground with spoons) during the bit of cold weather that we get in the winter, it makes a huge difference.
The manual: none of the bikes manuals are simple, even too many mechanics, (Italian manuals are worst/to my self) so for us that do the work our selves it sure can get a bit frustrating at times, especially when pressing for time.
Am sure that i'm not the only one here that has other manuals way worst than this one.
To be fair, for example this manual mentions placing the cloth between the tank to avoid scratching (it may be in the little one, not sure right now as i type)
Some one had mentioned taking photos, and video: Absolutely a great way to take notes, and even recording some sections of the process (have deleted most of mine, after learning the process).
Hope this helps does interested.
Have a great New Year!
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Just becareful not to over flex the whole fairing assembly.
I have been a bit rough with mine and broken the little moulded clips connecting the upper portion with the lower portion. It still has some mechanical fasteners keeping it together but is a little loose now where they join (where the black bit meets the red).
I tried to use some double sided tape to keep it together but there is barely a 3mm lip to stick the tape on.
I have been a bit rough with mine and broken the little moulded clips connecting the upper portion with the lower portion. It still has some mechanical fasteners keeping it together but is a little loose now where they join (where the black bit meets the red).
I tried to use some double sided tape to keep it together but there is barely a 3mm lip to stick the tape on.
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