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10 Posts
I’m 5’ 10” and a fairly aggressive rider. I like the seating of the GSXS but felt my butt pushing against the back seat, I kept wanting to lean more forward and found my elbows always bent and sticking out (especially at highway speeds), and my wrists felt like they were in an uncomfortable position. I found very little information about handlebar changes on the F so I had to start experimenting. Some say I should have gotten the GSXR but I think that’s too aggressive for what I wanted.
First I purchased Woodcraft Clip-ons with 3” Risers. This did not work at all. I think the bars would have cleared everything but the fork clamps hit the side fairing and front cluster badly. Most likely all Clip-ons will not work.
I really wanted to try Woodcraft's Clip-on Adapter Plate, but I could not confirm the bolt pattern of any of their Adapter Plates fit the GSXS. I plan to keep an eye on this product. Maybe someday I will put more effort into figuring out if something will fit. https://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=12-16
I also wanted to try the bars from Suburban Machinery. I had a 99 Bandit 1200S that had a their SV650 bars on it… LOVED IT. Unfortunately they stopped making most of their bars including anything with 1 1/8 center. When I called, I was informed they are getting on in age and are no longer producing new equipment, mostly just trying to sell off what they have left. https://www.suburban-machinery.com/hbindex.htm
I wanted to keep the 1 1/8 center without adapters; this limited the bars I could use. I found a very flat “Drag Bar” from RSI (Race Shop Inc); it’s a snowmobile handlebar. It’s completely flat with a 13-degree pullback. It’s made of 6mm thick 7075-T6 Aluminum and is currently installed on my GSXS. https://www.denniskirk.com/race-shop-inc/tapered-handlebars-tb-13-blk.p599177.prd/599177.sku
Everything fits with no modifications to the bike or controls. It is lower and more forward than stock. I mounted mine with the pullback going mostly back and a little down; I find it very comfortable. My elbows are not sticking out, my butt is no longer pressed against the back seat, and my wrists feel they are in a comfortable position. I have excellent leverage and am more comfortable sliding off the bike in aggressive turns.
Now the bad points…
1. The bar is 1 inch longer than stock. I could have left it alone but I wanted it shorter so I pulled out my saw zaw and cut ¾ inch off both ends. Now it’s a ½ inch shorter than stock. I’m glad I cut it.
2. The stock bar end weights will NOT fit. You must buy new weights that will accommodate a 13mm ID. I ordered these: https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/speedmetal-milled-bar-ends They have not arrived yet.
3. Drilling holes in bars for controls sucks… I wish I didn’t do it. I should have just cut off the nipples from the controls. I feel there is enough compression to hold them in place on their own.
4. There is very little clearance in the front for the clutch and break levers. If you like your levers low (rotated forward a lot) this may not work for you. I like them just as they are.
5. The mirrors are a little less useful since they are lower, in more, and less rotated. But no big deal IMO.
6. This is the big one… When in full turn there is only a ¼ gap between the controls and the fairing near the tank; and therefor when turning full you must lift your thumbs else they get pinched between the bar and the fairing. So far this has not been a problem for me, I just lift my thumbs. Potentially If you rotated the bar forward so the pullback was flat or up it would eliminate this. A ½ inch riser in the neck may also eliminate this. I will mostly likely leave mine as is.
IMO these are minor issues and I’m much happier with my new bar. This bar is not for everybody, but it works well for me.
First I purchased Woodcraft Clip-ons with 3” Risers. This did not work at all. I think the bars would have cleared everything but the fork clamps hit the side fairing and front cluster badly. Most likely all Clip-ons will not work.
I really wanted to try Woodcraft's Clip-on Adapter Plate, but I could not confirm the bolt pattern of any of their Adapter Plates fit the GSXS. I plan to keep an eye on this product. Maybe someday I will put more effort into figuring out if something will fit. https://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=12-16
I also wanted to try the bars from Suburban Machinery. I had a 99 Bandit 1200S that had a their SV650 bars on it… LOVED IT. Unfortunately they stopped making most of their bars including anything with 1 1/8 center. When I called, I was informed they are getting on in age and are no longer producing new equipment, mostly just trying to sell off what they have left. https://www.suburban-machinery.com/hbindex.htm
I wanted to keep the 1 1/8 center without adapters; this limited the bars I could use. I found a very flat “Drag Bar” from RSI (Race Shop Inc); it’s a snowmobile handlebar. It’s completely flat with a 13-degree pullback. It’s made of 6mm thick 7075-T6 Aluminum and is currently installed on my GSXS. https://www.denniskirk.com/race-shop-inc/tapered-handlebars-tb-13-blk.p599177.prd/599177.sku
Everything fits with no modifications to the bike or controls. It is lower and more forward than stock. I mounted mine with the pullback going mostly back and a little down; I find it very comfortable. My elbows are not sticking out, my butt is no longer pressed against the back seat, and my wrists feel they are in a comfortable position. I have excellent leverage and am more comfortable sliding off the bike in aggressive turns.
Now the bad points…
1. The bar is 1 inch longer than stock. I could have left it alone but I wanted it shorter so I pulled out my saw zaw and cut ¾ inch off both ends. Now it’s a ½ inch shorter than stock. I’m glad I cut it.
2. The stock bar end weights will NOT fit. You must buy new weights that will accommodate a 13mm ID. I ordered these: https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/speedmetal-milled-bar-ends They have not arrived yet.
3. Drilling holes in bars for controls sucks… I wish I didn’t do it. I should have just cut off the nipples from the controls. I feel there is enough compression to hold them in place on their own.
4. There is very little clearance in the front for the clutch and break levers. If you like your levers low (rotated forward a lot) this may not work for you. I like them just as they are.
5. The mirrors are a little less useful since they are lower, in more, and less rotated. But no big deal IMO.
6. This is the big one… When in full turn there is only a ¼ gap between the controls and the fairing near the tank; and therefor when turning full you must lift your thumbs else they get pinched between the bar and the fairing. So far this has not been a problem for me, I just lift my thumbs. Potentially If you rotated the bar forward so the pullback was flat or up it would eliminate this. A ½ inch riser in the neck may also eliminate this. I will mostly likely leave mine as is.
IMO these are minor issues and I’m much happier with my new bar. This bar is not for everybody, but it works well for me.
