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Discussion Starter #1
I’m 5’ 10” and a fairly aggressive rider. I like the seating of the GSXS but felt my butt pushing against the back seat, I kept wanting to lean more forward and found my elbows always bent and sticking out (especially at highway speeds), and my wrists felt like they were in an uncomfortable position. I found very little information about handlebar changes on the F so I had to start experimenting. Some say I should have gotten the GSXR but I think that’s too aggressive for what I wanted.

First I purchased Woodcraft Clip-ons with 3” Risers. This did not work at all. I think the bars would have cleared everything but the fork clamps hit the side fairing and front cluster badly. Most likely all Clip-ons will not work.

I really wanted to try Woodcraft's Clip-on Adapter Plate, but I could not confirm the bolt pattern of any of their Adapter Plates fit the GSXS. I plan to keep an eye on this product. Maybe someday I will put more effort into figuring out if something will fit. https://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=12-16

I also wanted to try the bars from Suburban Machinery. I had a 99 Bandit 1200S that had a their SV650 bars on it… LOVED IT. Unfortunately they stopped making most of their bars including anything with 1 1/8 center. When I called, I was informed they are getting on in age and are no longer producing new equipment, mostly just trying to sell off what they have left. https://www.suburban-machinery.com/hbindex.htm

I wanted to keep the 1 1/8 center without adapters; this limited the bars I could use. I found a very flat “Drag Bar” from RSI (Race Shop Inc); it’s a snowmobile handlebar. It’s completely flat with a 13-degree pullback. It’s made of 6mm thick 7075-T6 Aluminum and is currently installed on my GSXS. https://www.denniskirk.com/race-shop-inc/tapered-handlebars-tb-13-blk.p599177.prd/599177.sku

Everything fits with no modifications to the bike or controls. It is lower and more forward than stock. I mounted mine with the pullback going mostly back and a little down; I find it very comfortable. My elbows are not sticking out, my butt is no longer pressed against the back seat, and my wrists feel they are in a comfortable position. I have excellent leverage and am more comfortable sliding off the bike in aggressive turns.

Now the bad points…
1. The bar is 1 inch longer than stock. I could have left it alone but I wanted it shorter so I pulled out my saw zaw and cut ¾ inch off both ends. Now it’s a ½ inch shorter than stock. I’m glad I cut it.
2. The stock bar end weights will NOT fit. You must buy new weights that will accommodate a 13mm ID. I ordered these: https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/speedmetal-milled-bar-ends They have not arrived yet.
3. Drilling holes in bars for controls sucks… I wish I didn’t do it. I should have just cut off the nipples from the controls. I feel there is enough compression to hold them in place on their own.
4. There is very little clearance in the front for the clutch and break levers. If you like your levers low (rotated forward a lot) this may not work for you. I like them just as they are.
5. The mirrors are a little less useful since they are lower, in more, and less rotated. But no big deal IMO.
6. This is the big one… When in full turn there is only a ¼ gap between the controls and the fairing near the tank; and therefor when turning full you must lift your thumbs else they get pinched between the bar and the fairing. So far this has not been a problem for me, I just lift my thumbs. Potentially If you rotated the bar forward so the pullback was flat or up it would eliminate this. A ½ inch riser in the neck may also eliminate this. I will mostly likely leave mine as is.

IMO these are minor issues and I’m much happier with my new bar. This bar is not for everybody, but it works well for me.
 

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Great write up and thanks for the web site links.
I get a laugh when I read a magazine that quotes that handlebars are easily changed out. I've tried it on a few bikes and only the naked ones seem to work mostly.
It's always the full turn to the right or left on the faired that bashes the windscreen surround, or goes a few mm off the tank, crushing the pinkies.


Rob.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Having to move my thumbs to do a full turn has become bothersome; I fear if I forget, it will cause a low speed crash so I've ordered the SW-Motech 20mm Risers. I believe this will provide the thumb clearance I need and allow the clutch and break and mirrors to be rotated forward a bit more. I think the combo of the drag bar and risers will provide the optimum setup for the bend I prefer, which is a little back and a little down. I never found a 1 1/8 bar that had bars angled down. It sucks to have to buy an $80 bar and a $65 riser but it's still cheaper than the $180 ClipOns I returned.

SW-Motech Risers are out of stock in the US until mid July. I could not find a shop outside of the US that would ship to the US. I assume Twisted Throttle has an agreement with SW-Motech to be the only authorized reseller for the US. I did find a seller in France on eBay that is sending me the risers at a much higher price or course.

The Speedmetal Milled Bar Ends (Long) I ordered worked perfectly and look very nice. The short time I rode without bar ends had very noticeable vibration causing numbness in my hands. These took care of it very well. https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/speedmetal-milled-bar-ends
 

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Thanks for the review. I'm not happy with the stock bars, either. I'd like them to be more forward. I hate the wrist angle so I've got them rotated in/down to line up with the '1' mark. The wrist position is better, but they're now a little close.

I bought a new set of Renthal bars, but have delayed installing them because of the control locator bump. My thought was to try to mark and drill the new bars - since Suzuki doesn't list the locator piece as a separate attachment in the parts diagram.

I chose the new bars a little early - I went with same overall stock height (smallest difference between rise and height) and more sweep. If I were doing it again I'd probably get lower bars

I sort of understand why people would say 'get a gixxer' - but that's a huge difference, not the 1 or 2 inches some of us are after.

Another option could be: offset bar risers, but mount them so they move the bars forward, then rotate the bars back so they're lower and angled down.

Ideally, something like 'Euro Bars' with a 1-1/8" base diameter would be perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The risers finally arrived from France. They installed very easily, unfortunately it was raining a lot here in the Midwest so I was not able to test them out until recently. The 20mm risers are working wonderfully with the drag bars. It provided the clearance I wanted for my thumbs, I was able to rotate he bar down a bit more, and I was able to rotate the brake and clutch levers down which also improved the stock mirrors. I did not notice a big impact on the bar height, 20mm didn't really change much in how it feels, it just provided the clearance I needed everywhere.

Additionally I cut off the nipples on the controls allowing me to freely rotate them to whatever position I choose. I added no glue or tacky anything and they are holding just fine so far after two long rides.

Other than cost, the only downside to adding the risers was the RAM Ball I had on one of the handlebar clamp bolts no longer fit. A longer bolt should solve that problem: M8-1.25 x 80MM Allan Head Bolt; Amazon has them available.
 

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Thanks for the research,write-up and the pictures. I feel the same way you do, the stock bars are OK, but I feel that I need the bars a bit lower and forward, with a little less sweep back to take off the weird angle at the wrist. Will probably give this a try soon, a bit lower and forward handle bars will definitely make the handling feel sharp on the already agile chassis.
 

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Glad i found this thread, i was thinking the same thing regarding the stock handlebar position. I as well prefer the bars to be a little more forward and down is perfect. Great write up MDearth and thanks for the links and pictures, if i get the faired gixxess this will be one of the mods i do.
 

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This is my issue also. The stock bars do not feel ideal to me so I was thinking of something different. If you shim the clamps down to 1 inch diameter from 1 1/8 dose that solve any of the selection issues. I realize the controls are all for 1 1/8 inch bars but that could also be shimmed. I am getting custom bars made for my Victory Vision so maybe that is the route to take. I really thought since it had bars it would be easier but I guess being 1 1/8 diameter screws things up. Maybe I will just try the route that you did and see how I like it. Thanks for the write up.
 

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I recall the OEM Fatbar slims down to standard smaller jap size at the control blocks. 7/8 inch sounds familiar to me.
That should make the work of finding something a bit easier.

Rob.
 

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i have adjusted mine by rolling them back towards tank, it made it better, not sorted but more suited to my 5ft 7" frame, id prefer them to be an inch lower than stock and maybe more forward half inch, but its still way better than the sportbike crouch that drove me towards this bike.
 

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thinking of adjusting my stock one as well. I wanna pull it towards the tank a little i think, do you just loosen up those 4 bolts in the middle and adjust the bars?
 

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Hummm very interesting! Thinking for this mod for few months. I'm currently unable to download picture #2 (From Back Stock) and #9 (Full Turn Forward). Can somebody have access to them & send them to me by email to me please?
[email protected]
Thanks
 

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Appears no one has found a suitable replacement. I often feel they could be lower and more forward for my taste. The leg and seating position is great but I would like to lean forward more. The 750 GSXR feels good but my elbows can easily rest on my knees. Foot pegs on the GSXS is much more livable on the street but that dam fairing makes changing the bars a challenge.
 
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