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Discussion Starter #1
Hi friends, I also have a 2005 ZX-10R, has a new problem - which is not brand specific, so hoping someone on our Forum here could help. Here's what's happening:

Turn key, all lights up normal, fuel pump primes, horn beeps strong, push start button - and all goes black/dead. Nothing. Hear a short "bzzz" sound somewhere under the tank when this happens.

I would think if the battery were weak or bad (it is old, but measures 12.9 volts), I would just hear the Solenoid buzzing or clicking. But in this case all goes absolutely black/dead. Turn key again, totally dead. Nothing. As if main fuse were blown, but no fuses blown including main fuse.

Hook up another battery, and same thing happens again. Acts normal, push start, goes totally black, and stays black. Tried again today, and the dash came back to life, lights up normal, pump primes, but all goes dead when I push the start button.

This is a low miles 2005 ZX-10R, always on battery tender. Never had a problem before.

Why would a bike act normal but then go totally dead when start button pushed? Turn key off/on and still completely dead. But the next day turn key on and all lights up again as normal! Push start button and all goes dead again!

Hopefully someone here knows electrics!
 

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Still sounds like battery to me. It might measure enough voltage, but under load, it can't provide the current needed to kick the starter.
 

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I'm going to have to agree with mike, had this problem with my polaris sportsman 500. Battery had full voltage but had next to nothing for amperage, the starter relay would click and then kill the entire system. Putting a charger on the battery would allow me to start it once and that was it, replaced the battery and all is well. Try hooking up to a car battery for a jump start and see if it works, if it does it's most likely lack of cranking amps from your battery.
 

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Definitely sounds like battery. 95% of electrical problems that couldn't possibly be battery turn out to be battery.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 

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Battery and battery terminals
Starter motor fault/corrosion on contacts
Starter switch fault/corrosion on contacts

Process of elimination as always. Good luck!
 

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You did not say whether the other battery you tried was a new one, or known to work.

I personally distrust having a battery on battery tender for long period of times. If it is going to be a long time, a connect the battery tender on a outlet timer, allowing 'tendering' for only a few hours, permitting the battery to discharge a bit, from time to time..like a cycle.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You did not say whether the other battery you tried was a new one, or known to work.

I personally distrust having a battery on battery tender for long period of times. If it is going to be a long time, a connect the battery tender on a outlet timer, allowing 'tendering' for only a few hours, permitting the battery to discharge a bit, from time to time..like a cycle.
The 2nd battery I hooked up was a new one, but smaller than OEM, I wondered if maybe the 2nd battery also didn't have enough amperage to crank it over. I have OEM battery on it's way to me.

Today I'll pull the battery from my GSXS and see what happens.

Thanks for the replies guys! Hopefully it is just the battery.
 

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In your first post you said you hooked up another battery and got the same results.

If the first battery was still in the bike and has an internal short, and you just jumpered another battery across it, the short will suck the juice from the second battery too and you still won't be able to crank.

The only sure test is to remove the first battery and replace it with another known good battery. Don't leave the first battery connected as part of the circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
In your first post you said you hooked up another battery and got the same results.

If the first battery was still in the bike and has an internal short, and you just jumpered another battery across it, the short will suck the juice from the second battery too and you still won't be able to crank.

The only sure test is to remove the first battery and replace it with another known good battery. Don't leave the first battery connected as part of the circuit.
Found the problem! Not the battery. Bad positive cable/connection. Buddy hooked up a multimeter to each end of the cable, the numeric reading would move up and down/off as he was twisting the cable. Bypassed the cable and bike powered up and starter turned over, all good!.

This is a 14 year old bike ... apparently unseen corrosion inside the battery cable took it's toll. New cable ordered, also ordered the "magnetic switch" relay (houses the main fuse) that the cable connects to just to be safe.
 
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