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Hi everyone! I have a katana than I've been modifying since I purchased it earlier this year, and one of the final touches was supposed to be an SC Project S1 muffler. I finally received the pipe and when installing it everything went on perfectly except the bracket didn't line up (it angles forward instead of straight up). Fast forward 20+ emails later, SC refuses to help or replace the pipe stating that since I have it mounted on a black widow aftermarket header there's no guarantee that it will fit (since it was designed to fit on a stock header) and that I can try loosening the header bolts to try to make it work.

This is confusing to me because the stock muffler fits perfectly on the black widow header, and black widow states they designed the pipe to retain original mounting points. I even took the bike to the dealer and they said they wouldn't be able to make it fit without bending metal. So I'm left with a $900 piece of metal that I can't even properly install on my shiny new bike. I did tons of research and it looks like bracket on my S1 is from the SC project "metal black pipe", stock picture is attached. The S1 in the stock picture is stainless finished



If anyone has any ideas or lives near twin cities MN with a gsxs 1000 I would greatly appreciate it. If I could test fit my muffler on your stock header bike and it doesn't work, I'll be able to get a replacement from SC (and would pay you for your time)
 

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I don't really have any experience with either the headers or the slip on or the Katana for that matter. One thing I'm suspicious of, and maybe another member could answer: Is the slip on mount the same for a Katana vs a GSX-S1000? What comes to mind is maybe a minor mod for the Katana that went unnoticed by the suppliers that already have parts for the GSX-S1000, and they just added the Katana to the application list, because it's just a GSX-S1000 right? ;)
 

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I have a decat on my bike and I had to force a few things to line everything up lol. That does suck though and doesn't make sense since the stock exhausts still fits. For that situation, I would make a small bracket with two holes in it. Or take it to a metal fabrication shop and get them to make it. Then paint it black. No one would even notice.

Does the exhaust have a different part number from the gsx s1000?If they're different maybe check to see they sent the correct one.
 

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Have you fitted the cover? Or tried to? You have the exhaust fully on the header. I'm wondering if you loosen it off an slip it back does that fit with out exposing any holes in the exhaust. If there is no leaks then the exhaust will be right. It may not look as neat as how you have it fitted but when you put the cover on, you won't see it. The mounting holes in the cover will confirm whether everything is as designed. Hope this makes sense. I feel this is badly explained.
 

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Have you fitted the cover? Or tried to? You have the exhaust fully on the header. I'm wondering if you loosen it off an slip it back does that fit with out exposing any holes in the exhaust. If there is no leaks then the exhaust will be right. It may not look as neat as how you have it fitted but when you put the cover on, you won't see it. The mounting holes in the cover will confirm whether everything is as designed. Hope this makes sense. I feel this is badly explained.
This is how my Akrapovic slip-on was when I attached it to my Lextek headers. I had to slide it back on the the header outlet just over half an inch in order to get the bracket on the slip-on to line up properly. Once I did that it worked perfectly. There's still plenty of engagement left and no leaks. The carbon heat shield also lined up perfectly and covers the header outlet, so you can't see that the slip-on isn't fully seated, anyway. Here's a picture showing what I mean:

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I had no idea that SC-Project was charging $900 for a slip-on, especially one constructed from stainless steel and aluminum, then painted black. I thought the $700 I spent on the Akrapovic was a tough pill to swallow, but at least it's titanium and carbon fiber. SC-P must be awfully proud of their mufflers! 😬
 

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I have been delaying this s1 Muffler for a year & literally added it to the basket yesterday , i came here to see if anyone was selling one 😳

you may have save me a shed load of cash!

you could slide the pipe back to fit the bracket as long as its connected to the bracket & the jubilee clip is secure the exhaust will be fine it just won't be fully flush 🤷🏾‍♂️
 

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Hi everyone! I have a katana than I've been modifying since I purchased it earlier this year, and one of the final touches was supposed to be an SC Project S1 muffler. I finally received the pipe and when installing it everything went on perfectly except the bracket didn't line up (it angles forward instead of straight up). Fast forward 20+ emails later, SC refuses to help or replace the pipe stating that since I have it mounted on a black widow aftermarket header there's no guarantee that it will fit (since it was designed to fit on a stock header) and that I can try loosening the header bolts to try to make it work.

This is confusing to me because the stock muffler fits perfectly on the black widow header, and black widow states they designed the pipe to retain original mounting points. I even took the bike to the dealer and they said they wouldn't be able to make it fit without bending metal. So I'm left with a $900 piece of metal that I can't even properly install on my shiny new bike. I did tons of research and it looks like bracket on my S1 is from the SC project "metal black pipe", stock picture is attached. The S1 in the stock picture is stainless finished



If anyone has any ideas or lives near twin cities MN with a gsxs 1000 I would greatly appreciate it. If I could test fit my muffler on your stock header bike and it doesn't work, I'll be able to get a replacement from SC (and would pay you for your time)
I had the same issue fitting an arrow exhaust on lextek headers. I had to find a way to make it fit. It looks great but i had to trim the exhaust cover and change the position of the bracket. Juggle with it and find a way. I am glad i did.
 

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Oh yes, the joy of the Katana and header/muffler combinations that require cutting, welding, juggling, holding your face just right and then doing it all over again.

Looking at the pictures I would agree with your assessment of the bracket being incorrect as it looks like if that bracket were basically straight, like the one shown on the S1 on SC's website, it would fit fine. What did SC say when you asked them why the brackets look different?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
SC project told me the bracket was updated and that they are welded on a jig and are all the same (which I thought a convenient explanation considering I've never seen anyone else post pictures with my particular bracket). I'm hesitant to mess with the headers since I had the dealer install them and it requires moving the radiator, but I will try unseating the muffler slightly to see if that helps. I was paranoid it would leak but hopefully I can get enough clearance to fit the bolt through.

In general I absolutely love the sound and look. Loud with the db killer but not annoyingly so (sucks they weld the baffle in nowadays) Unique and aggressive tone throughout the rev range, and it looks flawless finish wise. Also the lugging I experienced at low rpm with the stock muffler with header was greatly improved with the S1. I considered akrapovic, m4, arrow, and mivv but went for the S1 for the unique sound/look and even though the price was stupid expensive I can say I'm happy with my decision.

(Side note: bike dynod at 147 with basic mods and stock muffler, I'm taking it in for a nitron shock install and ecu flash with the S1 and will ask if he can do a comparison vs stock muffler. I'll update the post once I have some pdfs to share)
 

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SC project told me the bracket was updated and that they are welded on a jig and are all the same (which I thought a convenient explanation considering I've never seen anyone else post pictures with my particular bracket). I'm hesitant to mess with the headers since I had the dealer install them and it requires moving the radiator, but I will try unseating the muffler slightly to see if that helps. I was paranoid it would leak but hopefully I can get enough clearance to fit the bolt through.

In general I absolutely love the sound and look. Loud with the db killer but not annoyingly so (sucks they weld the baffle in nowadays) Unique and aggressive tone throughout the rev range, and it looks flawless finish wise. Also the lugging I experienced at low rpm with the stock muffler with header was greatly improved with the S1. I considered akrapovic, m4, arrow, and mivv but went for the S1 for the unique sound/look and even though the price was stupid expensive I can say I'm happy with my decision.

(Side note: bike dynod at 147 with basic mods and stock muffler, I'm taking it in for a nitron shock install and ecu flash with the S1 and will ask if he can do a comparison vs stock muffler. I'll update the post once I have some pdfs to share)
Hopefully, you'll be able to get the mounting bracket where it needs to be by simply sliding the slip-on back a bit as shown in my picture. If not, you should be able to split the difference and get it to line up by sliding it back some and making small adjustments to the header connections to give you more overall length.

If you do test it, I'd certainly be interested in seeing any difference in power between the stock slip-on and the new one. Just keep in mind that if you run the DB killer during testing, it will limit power and lessen the chance of seeing any gain with the new muffler. DB killers are very effective at reducing noise levels because they introduce a substantial choke point. The unfortunate side effect is that they also kill power for that very same reason.

Some here choose to run the stock muffler with their cat delete pipe or header, but it is quite restrictive and unless the only goal is more noise, it defeats the purpose of adding the header in the first place by choking the flow at the very end of the system. The stock muffler has an integrated/welded in place DB killer, along with a very small diameter outlet. If you watch some of the up close exhaust videos on YouTube from guys who are running a cat delete or header with the stock muffler, you can hear the restriction it creates. The bike sounds like it's wheezing when revved. You'll notice this doesn't happen with the aftermarket slip-ons (without a DB killer in place) because this choke point is nonexistent.
 

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You've likely got one of three options and it doesn't sound like two of them are really options...convince SC that the 'new and improved' bracket on the S1 doesn't work and they'll come back with what they have already in that it was designed for a stock exhaust system and there's no guarantee it will work with anything other than stock, even though we all know 99% of the full systems are designed to 'land' exactly where the stock system does.

Find someone to fab a new bracket for the S1 and this could be the small 'extension' that was discussed earlier that connects the bracket on the S1 to the stock mounting location or weld a whole new bracket on the S1. I doubt you're going to be burning on a $900 slip-on, so that seems a long shot but that's the route I'd go if it were me as it's the most 'correct' fix. I didn't hesitate to have some welding done on a $750 Akra slip-on to get it to work with my Arrow exhaust but I'm pretty OCD about how things are on my bikes.

I'd agree with @871JZ in that the easiest fix is to do some careful 'wiggling' and see if you can split the difference to get the bracket and mount to line-up, although it looks to be about an inch that you need and that might be a tough one.

One other option would be to see if you could 'extend' the mid-pipe a little. You could use either a reducer, where it slipped over the mid-pipe on the Black Widow and the other side slipped into the S1 or you could weld an extension onto the mid-pipe. First one would be the easiest...any decent muffler shop should be able to fab up the exact size you need and you could have it notched to use as a slip connector on the header side and the slip-on would fit just like it were going onto the header as it normally would. Only downside would be two clamps in close proximity but they're covered by the carbon piece anyway, so you would never see them. Not the 'cleanest' solution but relatively easy and it doesn't require hacking your exhaust or the slip-on, both of which I'm guessing you'd be hesitant to do.

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Oh yeah, and welcome to the 'I Paid Stupid Money for a Slip-On Club'...although I can't believe the SC was that much. The Akra pained me at $750 and even more when I found out it isn't full Ti but stainless 'guts' with a Ti wrap and carbon cap but $900 and the fit issues you're having and I'd be beside myself.
 

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Slide the muffler back on the pipe a little as well as slot the muffler bracket a little as well,
After market never fits perfect!
 

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Slide the muffler back on the pipe a little as well as slot the muffler bracket a little as well,
After market never fits perfect!
That's actually a good idea. If you can't make it work by sliding the slip-on back some, try splitting the difference by doing that, as well as slotting the hole in the mounting tab on the slip on. Then you wouldn't be forced to get the holes perfectly aligned. As long as they're close, you can add a flat washer to the back side before installing your nut. Torquing the nut against the flat washer will add some reach and provide the clamping force necessary to keep the slip-on from going anywhere. Then you won't have to mess with the header.
 

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SC project told me the bracket was updated and that they are welded on a jig and are all the same (which I thought a convenient explanation considering I've never seen anyone else post pictures with my particular bracket). I'm hesitant to mess with the headers since I had the dealer install them and it requires moving the radiator, but I will try unseating the muffler slightly to see if that helps. I was paranoid it would leak but hopefully I can get enough clearance to fit the bolt through.

In general I absolutely love the sound and look. Loud with the db killer but not annoyingly so (sucks they weld the baffle in nowadays) Unique and aggressive tone throughout the rev range, and it looks flawless finish wise. Also the lugging I experienced at low rpm with the stock muffler with header was greatly improved with the S1. I considered akrapovic, m4, arrow, and mivv but went for the S1 for the unique sound/look and even though the price was stupid expensive I can say I'm happy with my decision.

(Side note: bike dynod at 147 with basic mods and stock muffler, I'm taking it in for a nitron shock install and ecu flash with the S1 and will ask if he can do a comparison vs stock muffler. I'll update the post once I have some pdfs to share)

How much of a difference does a change of headers make? so expensive for what appears to be the same size pipes!

The only exhaust I want for this bike is the s1 & I'd like to know how much quieter it is with the db killer in. does it make a substantial difference?

I drilled out the baffle of the stock exhaust & removed the baffler turkey tray in exchange for a link pipe.......its pretty **** loud.....to loud. No one pulls out on me & cars move several car lengths ahead but I feel its overkill & felt the baffle may have been adequate enough.

crazy that I'm considering a baffled sc project exhaust to make the bike quieter 🤦🏾‍♂️😳🤣

if your savvy with tools moving the radiator on this bike is actually very easy & easy to put back without damaging anything
 

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I don't know where it was deemed necessary to move the radiator in order to install an exhaust system as I didn't have to touch the radiator when I installed the Arrow exhaust. They are separate spigots and head pipes and there is plenty of room to get both in, and I don't exactly have small hands, with the radiator in its original place.

I did put a piece of cardboard over some of the exposed fins on the backside but that was a precaution in case the spring puller slipper or something unusual happened.

If someone claims you absolutely have to remove the radiator on one of these bikes for an exhaust install they are being either overly cautious or tacking on some additional time to the installation charge.

I wouldn't be surprised if a change in headers on a properly mapped bike yielded 10+ horsepower. The stock system isn't horrible but the real restrictions are in the exhaust valve and huge muffler/converter that's part of the stock system...it's huge. And then there is the weight savings, which is going to be anywhere from 12-15 lbs. depending upon the system chosen and what 'extras' are taken off the bike.

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I'll measure the head pipes on the stock exhaust and on my Arrow later today as now I am curious...the stock setup isn't horrible, at least up to the exhaust valve, but it's, well...stock.
 

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I don't know where it was deemed necessary to move the radiator in order to install an exhaust system as I didn't have to touch the radiator when I installed the Arrow exhaust. They are separate spigots and head pipes and there is plenty of room to get both in, and I don't exactly have small hands, with the radiator in its original place.

I did put a piece of cardboard over some of the exposed fins on the backside but that was a precaution in case the spring puller slipper or something unusual happened.

If someone claims you absolutely have to remove the radiator on one of these bikes for an exhaust install they are being either overly cautious or tacking on some additional time to the installation charge.

I wouldn't be surprised if a change in headers on a properly mapped bike yielded 10+ horsepower. The stock system isn't horrible but the real restrictions are in the exhaust valve and huge muffler/converter that's part of the stock system...it's huge. And then there is the weight savings, which is going to be anywhere from 12-15 lbs. depending upon the system chosen and what 'extras' are taken off the bike.

View attachment 46488 View attachment 46489 View attachment 46490

I'll measure the head pipes on the stock exhaust and on my Arrow later today as now I am curious...the stock setup isn't horrible, at least up to the exhaust valve, but it's, well...stock.
I didn't remove the radiator for my header install, but I did remove the three radiator mounting bolts and swing it forward. This gave me 2-3x as much room to work. My Lextek headers have one piece head pipes, not spigots that bolt to the head like the Arrow's do. The Arrow installation would probably require less free space, as the four spigots by themselves are quite a bit smaller then four head pipes. Could I have done it without swinging the radiator forward? Possibly, but for the five minutes it took to pull the fairings (naked model) and remove the three radiator bolts, it only made sense to make use of the additional space.
 

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I didn't remove the radiator for my header install, but I did remove the three radiator mounting bolts and swing it forward. This gave me 2-3x as much room to work. My Lextek headers have one piece head pipes, not spigots that bolt to the head like the Arrow's do. The Arrow installation would probably require less free space, as the four spigots by themselves are quite a bit smaller then four head pipes. Could I have done it without swinging the radiator forward? Possibly, but for the five minutes it took to pull the fairings (naked model) and remove the three radiator bolts, it only made sense to make use of the additional space.
Makes sense and I didn't realize that the Lextek didn't use spigots until I looked at your pictures again. Either way, it's not a bad idea and I've had to do far worse on some bikes.

Stock head pipe diameter:
Calipers Measuring instrument Tool Gas Automotive tire


I'll get the Arrow measured later today.
 

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Makes sense and I didn't realize that the Lextek didn't use spigots until I looked at your pictures again. Either way, it's not a bad idea and I've had to do far worse on some bikes.

Stock head pipe diameter:
View attachment 46492

I'll get the Arrow measured later today.
Interested to see the difference in size once you get the Arrow measured. I'll have to do the same with mine and post the results.
 
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