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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all. My name is Dave from Seattle and i just recently purchased a 2016 gsxs1000. This is my first real power bike. I started riding 12 years ago with my first bike a Hyosung GT250R. In later years i acquired a suzuki intruder 1400 cruiser and have been riding both but i felt the 250 wasn't cutting it for me anymore but didnt want a flat out sport bike and was thinking naked/touring...and here i am. :)
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Hi all. My name is Dave from Seattle and i just recently purchased a 2016 gsxs1000. This is my first real power bike. I started riding 12 years ago with my first bike a Hyosung GT250R. In later years i acquired a suzuki intruder 1400 cruiser and have been riding both but i felt the 250 wasn't cutting it for me anymore but didnt want a flat out sport bike and was thinking naked/touring...and here i am. :) View attachment 46081
Welcome to a great site D16suz1000!! Lots of knowledgeable people on the board to try and help in anyway they can. (I say they, because I'm not one of them. LOL I've just begun myself, still doing lots of reading) Nice bike BTW, what exhaust pipe is that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Welcome to a great site D16suz1000!! Lots of knowledgeable people on the board to try and help in anyway they can. (I say they, because I'm not one of them. LOL I've just begun myself, still doing lots of reading) Nice bike BTW, what exhaust pipe is that?
Hey mmkaw, thanks! and funny you should ask that because that is one of my [few] gripes, lol. previous owner did a couple mods and one of them was to cut out the cat and oem exhaust and have this piece welded on. I'm not a fan and am currently looking to replace the whole exhaust system (which is another reason i joined this forum... for advice lol).
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Hey mmkaw, thanks! and funny you should ask that because that is one of my [few] gripes, lol. previous owner did a couple mods and one of them was to cut out the cat and oem exhaust and have this piece welded on. I'm not a fan and am currently looking to replace the whole exhaust system (which is another reason i joined this forum... for advice lol). View attachment 46082 View attachment 46083 View attachment 46084
Hello Dave,
Welcome to this site. Take a while before you change anything. These bikes are cheap to buy but you have to do a few things to release the joy of the best motorcycle motor ever invented. A lot of us have removed the catalytic converter becaise it is only one there with its 4.8 kg weight because some fascist in the EU imposed emission restrictions which have caught on world wide. I suspect the previous owner has gone to considerable expense to get rid of the EU plumbing. The next thing we do to make these bikes work is get rid of the pogo stifck excuse for a rear shock absorber and replace it with a Nitron, Wilbers, K Tech or other properly made and adjustable rear shock absorber. The standard one it comes with will turn every bumpy road into a back breaker. I suspect, if the previous owner went to the trouble of getting rid of the starving, lumpy catalytic converter, he has changed the rear shock as well. It migh be (gauging from the look of the exhaust) that it might be too loud for your sensibilities. When I got rid of all that plumbing I had black arrow pipes straight through from the headers (where the pipes exit the motor) to the exhaust, and I kept the standard exhaust at the end to render it legal looking. Finally, that model had a very snatchy throttle, and you can use a Power Commander, or a reflashing (chaning the software) in the electroni control unit which mediates as a computer all the inputs of the bike. Personally,.I went for the cheaper and effective option of fitting a booster plug.
The need for reprogramming or flashing, is again the EU nanny state fascists, who have imposed rules on emissions. So all motorcycle and car manufacturers since 2012 have had to comply with these emission standards, so all bikes and cars since then are programmed to run lean between idle and 4500 rpm so they can be certified as compliant. I have the same bike as you, but also privileged to own the original K5-6 GSXR1000 whose legendary engine was the template for the GSXS1000. The original bike has none of the EU plumbing to comply with the fascist controls which now exist. Jens Lyck, of boosterplug.com, tried to help new owners by designing a cheap electronic fix to enrich the mixture so that the bike doesn't stalll and splutter trying to get enough fuel at low revs. So take your time, don't change anything until you know what it does. Almost all experienced GSXS1000 owners like me, have a full OEM exhaust sitting in the shed, and the OEM pogo stick rear shock, so if you want to go back to stanard you should be able to get this stuff cheap.
 

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2016 Suzuki GSX-S1000
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hello Dave,
Welcome to this site. Take a while before you change anything. These bikes are cheap to buy but you have to do a few things to release the joy of the best motorcycle motor ever invented. A lot of us have removed the catalytic converter becaise it is only one there with its 4.8 kg weight because some fascist in the EU imposed emission restrictions which have caught on world wide. I suspect the previous owner has gone to considerable expense to get rid of the EU plumbing. The next thing we do to make these bikes work is get rid of the pogo stifck excuse for a rear shock absorber and replace it with a Nitron, Wilbers, K Tech or other properly made and adjustable rear shock absorber. The standard one it comes with will turn every bumpy road into a back breaker. I suspect, if the previous owner went to the trouble of getting rid of the starving, lumpy catalytic converter, he has changed the rear shock as well. It migh be (gauging from the look of the exhaust) that it might be too loud for your sensibilities. When I got rid of all that plumbing I had black arrow pipes straight through from the headers (where the pipes exit the motor) to the exhaust, and I kept the standard exhaust at the end to render it legal looking. Finally, that model had a very snatchy throttle, and you can use a Power Commander, or a reflashing (chaning the software) in the electroni control unit which mediates as a computer all the inputs of the bike. Personally,.I went for the cheaper and effective option of fitting a booster plug.
The need for reprogramming or flashing, is again the EU nanny state fascists, who have imposed rules on emissions. So all motorcycle and car manufacturers since 2012 have had to comply with these emission standards, so all bikes and cars since then are programmed to run lean between idle and 4500 rpm so they can be certified as compliant. I have the same bike as you, but also privileged to own the original K5-6 GSXR1000 whose legendary engine was the template for the GSXS1000. The original bike has none of the EU plumbing to comply with the fascist controls which now exist. Jens Lyck, of boosterplug.com, tried to help new owners by designing a cheap electronic fix to enrich the mixture so that the bike doesn't stalll and splutter trying to get enough fuel at low revs. So take your time, don't change anything until you know what it does. Almost all experienced GSXS1000 owners like me, have a full OEM exhaust sitting in the shed, and the OEM pogo stick rear shock, so if you want to go back to stanard you should be able to get this stuff cheap.
Hi Country leaves and thanks for the welcome, info, and advice. Funny you should mention the booster plug, because I've been doing "research" on this forum for hours now (which my gf gave up on asking me to come to bed lol) reading countless posts about this and that mod and aftermarket part. I just learned about the servo motor and its aftermarket counterpart the servo buddy. I read about the booster plug and based on what they claim alone, should heal my gripes. oh, and yes, you are right... way too loud for my taste.

I feel like the bike has more than enough power for me and I don't need any more. I'm not out to race anyone. I just want a nicer (lower) sounding bike with smooth and even power in all ranges. I'm really not a fan of the jerky/twitchy throttle when I'm cruising on the road from start to about 35mph. I was reading about all these options of wideband sensors with full exhausts and power commander V units, and modifications like removing panel inside the airbox to allow it the breathe better. I've heard conflicting advice about stock paper filter with panel removed vs aftermarket hi-flo filter, or full aftermarket exhaust vs de-catted stock system. Its a bit overwhelming as I've only had 2 bikes, both carburetors and all I needed was to re-jet, adjust some screws and I was good! lol. which could you set me straight on my assumption... assuming i do a full exhaust that comes with no O2 sensor and eliminates the servo motor inducing 2 codes to go off, would flashing the ecu fix that & fuel issues, or getting the power commander with better mapping take care of that for the ecu? head spinning with many concepts floating around. All i know is i want less/no jerkiness and better sounding. what say ye? thanks again!
 

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Welcome Dave! You'll find plenty of info and suggestions for all of the mods you might want to do here. Happy reading and posting!
 

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Hi Country leaves and thanks for the welcome, info, and advice. Funny you should mention the booster plug, because I've been doing "research" on this forum for hours now (which my gf gave up on asking me to come to bed lol) reading countless posts about this and that mod and aftermarket part. I just learned about the servo motor and its aftermarket counterpart the servo buddy. I read about the booster plug and based on what they claim alone, should heal my gripes. oh, and yes, you are right... way too loud for my taste.

I feel like the bike has more than enough power for me and I don't need any more. I'm not out to race anyone. I just want a nicer (lower) sounding bike with smooth and even power in all ranges. I'm really not a fan of the jerky/twitchy throttle when I'm cruising on the road from start to about 35mph. I was reading about all these options of wideband sensors with full exhausts and power commander V units, and modifications like removing panel inside the airbox to allow it the breathe better. I've heard conflicting advice about stock paper filter with panel removed vs aftermarket hi-flo filter, or full aftermarket exhaust vs de-catted stock system. Its a bit overwhelming as I've only had 2 bikes, both carburetors and all I needed was to re-jet, adjust some screws and I was good! lol. which could you set me straight on my assumption... assuming i do a full exhaust that comes with no O2 sensor and eliminates the servo motor inducing 2 codes to go off, would flashing the ecu fix that & fuel issues, or getting the power commander with better mapping take care of that for the ecu? head spinning with many concepts floating around. All i know is i want less/no jerkiness and better sounding. what say ye? thanks again!
Hello Dave,
I have relied on referring to those who have more knowledge than I do. There is a member on here by the name of temporarykiwi, who is very knowledgeable and could probably answer your questions. In the meantime,since there's been some serious welding and surgery on the exhaust , to dimiinish the noise you could go to a muffler mechanic and have a baffle or a welded on replacement slip on to cut the noise way down. That pipe in your photo shows straight through the pipe, so virtually no baffling of the noise. In the USA a lot of respected riders get a reflash by a business called Dano, but there is also an accepted reflash kit called Woolwich. Qieten the bike down first and then take time to think of your next step. Good luck

Steve
 

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Hello again Dave,
Go to this link on this site:
 
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