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Hi Martin, I've tried to attach a photo - no idea if it's worked until after I submit this reply though. In summary the shock is excellent quality, it comes with a special tool to adjust the preload with too. I recommend putting some silicon lubricant onto the threads first (before installing the shock) to make it easier to adjust.
Installation was ok to do, I used an Abba stand to support the bike and this enabled the swing arm to be moved easily once the shock was unbolted and this aided the removal of the unit by dropping it downwards. I managed to do so without dropping the exhaust - but it's a tight fit. Actually installing the new Nitron was quicker to do than removing the original.
I had the suspension set up for me by Dave Moss who is in NZ at the moment, after a couple of runs he got things nicely balanced.
The bike now handles as it should - holds a tight line through the bends, it has a real quality feel to it.
Thanks Steve. I see you chose the black spring.
I was looking at the cheaper Ntr1 shock without the remote canister.
Anything has to be an improvement over the stock shocker.
They have ride height adjustment.....did you raise the rear?
Cheers.
 

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i m checking oem rear shock out of other bikes , already got few solution for doing this swap
 

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Thanks Steve. I see you chose the black spring.
I was looking at the cheaper Ntr1 shock without the remote canister.
Anything has to be an improvement over the stock shocker.
They have ride height adjustment.....did you raise the rear?
Cheers.
I think I'll go for the Nitron shock ... like the idea of a ride height adjuster..:)
 

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Thanks Steve. I see you chose the black spring.
I was looking at the cheaper Ntr1 shock without the remote canister.
Anything has to be an improvement over the stock shocker.
They have ride height adjustment.....did you raise the rear?
Cheers.
Hi, no I saw that it had that adjustment but installed it as it came with standard ride height. Dave noted that the level/quality of the adjustment on the Nitron was excellent too. He set the bike up for fast road work first and sent me for a test ride, then backed all the damping off 3 clicks and I went out again - noticeably more compliant over the road surfaces here. The Tarmac here is coarser than the UK and although the roads are great, they tend not to be as smooth in comparison. I've left it set back in the firmer settings for now until I've got a few rides completed and then will compare to the softer settings. But just 3 clicks does make a big difference.

Colour - yes "black" which in the flesh looks very close to the original colour of the Spring.

Anyway now I've put some money into the bike with a PCV and better brake pads, it's a fantastic bike. All good enhancements to make.
 

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Steve...yes Tarmac here in Uk is generally not too bad but for potholes etc.
Ive had upgraded suspension on other bikes and the difference in adjustment is very noticeable...
thats where it all makes sense. Adjustment on the oem shock is limited and poor quality.
The Gsx with a sorted throttle , improved feel from the front brake pads and rear shock sorted,will be me done.
Without doing a search did you swap the front brake pads because of the initial bite.....?
Which pads did you install....?
Cheers.
 

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Steve...yes Tarmac here in Uk is generally not too bad but for potholes etc.
Ive had upgraded suspension on other bikes and the difference in adjustment is very noticeable...
thats where it all makes sense. Adjustment on the oem shock is limited and poor quality.
The Gsx with a sorted throttle , improved feel from the front brake pads and rear shock sorted,will be me done.
Without doing a search did you swap the front brake pads because of the initial bite.....?
Which pads did you install....?
Cheers.
Hi Martin, yes I swapped them due to lack of initial bite. I got EBC Pads (HH version) from B&C Express. I've also heard that Vesrah are good too.

I'm actually from Warrington but lived over here for 8 years now, although come back for a holiday to see family in the North West most years.
 

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something like



or

 

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Discussion Starter #28
Having changed the shock, I don't think there is enough clearance for the reservoir on the red one . The other should fit if the length is the same between hole centres etc....
 

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distance is 326 +/- 3 about space . i will check how much room
 

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Hi Martin, yes I swapped them due to lack of initial bite. I got EBC Pads (HH version) from B&C Express. I've also heard that Vesrah are good too.

I'm actually from Warrington but lived over here for 8 years now, although come back for a holiday to see family in the North West most years.
Hi Steve....think we should get married.
Can you give me your impressions on the Ebc front brake pads.
Do they improve the initial bite?
Any noise and how do they feel through the brake lever?
Its all a big help Steve and much appreciated.

cheers Martin.
 

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Hi Steve....think we should get married.
Can you give me your impressions on the Ebc front brake pads.
Do they improve the initial bite?
Any noise and how do they feel through the brake lever?
Its all a big help Steve and much appreciated.

cheers Martin.
WHAT THE WHAT? Um. Wrong forum I think.......
 

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I found that after the first 1600 km the suspension has become a little more compliant wheels track much better over bumpy terrain, I've left the preload on stock settings and the rebound one extra click to the right on the forks and approx a 1/4 turn to the right on the rear, it has made a positive difference for me, I weight 90kg in my riding gear, admittedly I haven't done a track day yet but would assume it to be on the money.
I come from a dirt track and enduro background so generally speaking anything off the dirt I find smoother ;)
 

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Hi Steve....think we should get married.
Can you give me your impressions on the Ebc front brake pads.
Do they improve the initial bite?
Any noise and how do they feel through the brake lever?
Its all a big help Steve and much appreciated.

cheers Martin.
Ha!

Ok the EBCs do really improve the initial bite, there's no difference in feel through the brake lever. But I've found a big difference when I first apply the brakes, you can feel the brakes grabbing on straight away, they didn't need much bedding in either.
Noise - I think they may make a little bit more noise, but I'm struggling to pick it up. In other words, if they do then it's not noticeable. I'm taking the bike out this Sunday for a decent run up through the twisties to the coast. I will let you know how the suspension compares now it's all dialled in. Cheers
 

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I found that after the first 1600 km the suspension has become a little more compliant wheels track much better over bumpy terrain, I've left the preload on stock settings and the rebound one extra click to the right on the forks and approx a 1/4 turn to the right on the rear, it has made a positive difference for me, I weight 90kg in my riding gear, admittedly I haven't done a track day yet but would assume it to be on the money.
I come from a dirt track and enduro background so generally speaking anything off the dirt I find smoother ;)
Snap! I left my suspension alone for 4000 km before measuring static and loaded sag, then adjusting it. It definitely becomes more compliant over time. I weigh about the same as you with riding gear and a day pack. We have identical settings except I moved rear preload from the standard 3 setting (the naked model) to 4 (the F). It was nigh on perfect at my first trackday. On the roads in our area which can be a bit bumpy in some places, the front end is still a touch harsh. The front preload measurement is fine so I'll tinker with the damping a wee bit. However, fitting PR4’s (55 section) in place of the D214’s has given me the biggest gain in terms of ease of turn-in as they have a sharper crown radius.
 

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could also work
 

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Installation was ok to do, I used an Abba stand to support the bike and this enabled the swing arm to be moved easily once the shock was unbolted and this aided the removal of the unit by dropping it downwards. I managed to do so without dropping the exhaust - but it's a tight fit. Actually installing the new Nitron was quicker to do than removing the original.
Steve, could you pls tell me the steps to the change the shock?
before i read your post i tried to change the shock but thought the shock would not fit downwards. what's the trick?

Mani
 

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Hi Manni. I used an Abba stand (which lifts the bike at the swing arm pivot) so that I would be able to move the swing arm up and down whilst removing and installing the shock. Then also used a paddock stand as a simple lever to raise and lower the swinging arm whilst I manipulated the shock out of there. Basically you will need the swing arm to be angled downwards to give clearance. I also removed the exhaust mounting bolts that support the silencer and catalytic converter which allows the exhaust to be moved downwards a few centimetres - this gives sufficient clearance for the job without needing to touch the manifold bolts. It's a pain that the cat it welded to the headers and doesn't unbolt like I've had on sports bikes. Lastly I removed the 2 lower suspension triangular plates, just note which way they go on. One of those 3 bolts had been way over tightened at the factory so it was good to know that it was all torqued correctly upon re-installation. A word of caution - the 3 bolts you remove sit in needle roller bearings but they are not captive ie. Each needle should stay in place due to the grease they sit in. But if you are not careful they can move or drop out. It's no issue provided that you're mindful of this, check before putting the bolts back in and if any have moved then it's easy just to put them back using a screwdriver etc to gently realign them inside the bore. Having removed these 2 side plates you can easily wiggle the shock out, installing my Nitron even with the remote reservoir, was also actually easy with this process. Then reassemble the lower linkage, I also applied fresh grease to the 3 links (being careful with the needle rollers). Point to note is that you recognise how exposed those 3 linkage pivots are to crud off the back wheel etc. So I will be cleaning and re- lubing on a regular basis as it's easy to do once you've had it apart the first time. One last piece of advice - when refitting the 3 bolts that secure the triangular linkage plates - tighten them gradually and sequentially so that the plates sit squarely and evenly. If you go too quickly or with too much torque to one bolt then the linkage will not sit correctly. Check visually as you go along and ensure its sitting correctly at the end of the install. If not then slacken the bolts off and repeat - just work at an even and controlled pace.
 

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steve, thank you very much for that detailed explanation.
i will try it as you explained.
do you know the torque needed for the bolts?
 

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Hi - yes I should still have that information, I'm working away until Wednesday so let me check when I'm back home and I will post it up for you.
 
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