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Hi Steve,

thanks again for the detailed description, in the meantime i managed to change the shock.
i did it as you wrote. maybe it's not necessary to remove the bolt that holds
the cat, but i am not sure, as i removed it anyway.
the needles of the swing arm bearing stay in place if you only remove the bolt and not the bushing,
as i noticed.
i used the torques from the gsx-r 1000, assuming they are the same as for the gsx-s 1000.
now i habe a wilbers 641 shock with a custom spring rate, external reservoir under the rear seat,
hi- and low speed compression damping adjustment, hydraulic spring adjustment, length adjustment....
took me two days to setup the suspension.
extremely happy now!
 

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No one mentioned about replacing the front forks? Because it's unreasonable expensive relatively to the bike value or it's usable with proper adjustment?
I assume the front forks is more crucial to the bike handling than the rear.
 

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No one mentioned about replacing the front forks? Because it's unreasonable expensive relatively to the bike value or it's usable with proper adjustment?
I assume the front forks is more crucial to the bike handling than the rear.
I think it's because the front is quite nice as it is. The damping and preload adjustment range is great for light people all the way to heavier people. And the spring rate is pretty much perfect as far as I can tell.
 

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Hi Steve,

thanks again for the detailed description, in the meantime i managed to change the shock.
i did it as you wrote. maybe it's not necessary to remove the bolt that holds
the cat, but i am not sure, as i removed it anyway.
the needles of the swing arm bearing stay in place if you only remove the bolt and not the bushing,
as i noticed.
i used the torques from the gsx-r 1000, assuming they are the same as for the gsx-s 1000.
now i habe a wilbers 641 shock with a custom spring rate, external reservoir under the rear seat,
hi- and low speed compression damping adjustment, hydraulic spring adjustment, length adjustment....
took me two days to setup the suspension.
extremely happy now!
Wilbers????
They had nothing for our bike on online store...

Grüße aus die Hauptstadt

Edit:
Forget about , called them
In two weeks will be here
For quite a fair price
 
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yes, they will put it in the online store after they have the ABE for germnay.
but they supply everything to get the german TÜV, so no problem...
 

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got today , already fitted , pretty happy
 

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I like it there. I think it's a good idea. It'll stop all the crap from the back wheel covering it. If it was attached to the rear footrest hanger it would get messy real quick


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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SO, anyone heard any news from your local Ohlins dealer about possible shock for the GSX-S1000? I have the machine just over one year and still waiting for an after market shock. Nitron seems to be a good choice but there is not dealer in my area, worry about the service and maintenance in long run.
 

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Hi Manni. I used an Abba stand (which lifts the bike at the swing arm pivot) so that I would be able to move the swing arm up and down whilst removing and installing the shock. Then also used a paddock stand as a simple lever to raise and lower the swinging arm whilst I manipulated the shock out of there. Basically you will need the swing arm to be angled downwards to give clearance. I also removed the exhaust mounting bolts that support the silencer and catalytic converter which allows the exhaust to be moved downwards a few centimetres - this gives sufficient clearance for the job without needing to touch the manifold bolts. It's a pain that the cat it welded to the headers and doesn't unbolt like I've had on sports bikes. Lastly I removed the 2 lower suspension triangular plates, just note which way they go on. One of those 3 bolts had been way over tightened at the factory so it was good to know that it was all torqued correctly upon re-installation. A word of caution - the 3 bolts you remove sit in needle roller bearings but they are not captive ie. Each needle should stay in place due to the grease they sit in. But if you are not careful they can move or drop out. It's no issue provided that you're mindful of this, check before putting the bolts back in and if any have moved then it's easy just to put them back using a screwdriver etc to gently realign them inside the bore. Having removed these 2 side plates you can easily wiggle the shock out, installing my Nitron even with the remote reservoir, was also actually easy with this process. Then reassemble the lower linkage, I also applied fresh grease to the 3 links (being careful with the needle rollers). Point to note is that you recognise how exposed those 3 linkage pivots are to crud off the back wheel etc. So I will be cleaning and re- lubing on a regular basis as it's easy to do once you've had it apart the first time. One last piece of advice - when refitting the 3 bolts that secure the triangular linkage plates - tighten them gradually and sequentially so that the plates sit squarely and evenly. If you go too quickly or with too much torque to one bolt then the linkage will not sit correctly. Check visually as you go along and ensure its sitting correctly at the end of the install. If not then slacken the bolts off and repeat - just work at an even and controlled pace.
I had to add all images to imgur since ive reached the max on this site... so lame. Its 1995 again?

HOWWW HOW HOW HOWWWW? I tried everything.

Images: Removing shock on a 2016 GSX-S1000 - Album on Imgur


My experience was completely different! And not a good one. Spent way more hours than I should have.

in short: I tried without removing the exhaust and could not get the shock out. See photos. Then i caved and removed the full exhaust which was a lot easier than i thought and finished the job very fast.

What didnt work from your advice:
Raised the bike all the way up and could not get the top of the shock out. I tried: removed the cat support bracket, removing the air from the tire, removing the brake lines, pushing down on the headers, etc. Essentially the lower part of the shock is blocked by the cushion rod. You cannot remove the cushion rod without removing the exhaust. But if you remove the exhaust you dont need to take out the cushion rod.

what I did:
after an hour of trying everything i caved and removed the headers. I didnt have to drain the radiator. I just carefully moved it around to give my wrench space to take out the bolts. NOTE: when putting the headers back in make sure they seal well if youre not using new gasket rings. If you have a header leak it can burn your valves.

suspend bike from a strong beam with ratchet straps
- remove the following:
- Foot pegs
- End pipe
- Lower fairing plastics
- Mid left right fenders
- Remove radiator - no need to drain but carefully give yourself room to get the wrench in. Helps if you turn the wheel to the left.
- Cable to valve on exhaust right side
- Disconnect and being down the o2 sensor cable and lower the cable through the body. You dont need to take it all the way out
- Header bolts
- Lower shock bolt
- Lowest triangle bolt
- Upper shock bolt
- Shock comes out the bottom with the swing arm up.
- keep an eye on the rear brake line to not stretch when raising the bike

Putting things back use new bolts, for the upper, and lower shock and triangle. I use RTV red gasket maker to keep all my bolts in place.

Mount the remote reservoir externally in a well vented area. If it doesnt vent and cool it will prematurely age the oil and not work well.
 

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got today , already fitted , pretty happy
Clever hiding under the seat but its not recommended.

The remote reservoir gets hot under heavy use and needs cooling else itll prematurely age the oil. It needs to be mounted outside in a vented area which is why you see most of them on the underside of the rear.
 

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Well if you think so...
 

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Are you may a suspension tech , a test driver , other sort of tech or something similar?
 

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I've seen a couple of folks here with the remote can mounted under the passenger seat. Have you guys actually checked how hot to touch the reservoir gets after a ride? I am thinking about upgrading the shock on my bike and I am wondering how much this is really an issue.
 

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I've seen a couple of folks here with the remote can mounted under the passenger seat. Have you guys actually checked how hot to touch the reservoir gets after a ride? I am thinking about upgrading the shock on my bike and I am wondering how much this is really an issue.


They can get up to 500 degrees but normally under abuse you'll see 200-250


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miss my answer... :D
 
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