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Discussion Starter #1
🏍1 OIL . I lost my licence back on Jan 21st ; 14 weeks ago.
unfortunately I haven't been able to run the bike properly so idling is the best I can do

I drained my oil & it was clear black , didn't really need draining as it had 800 miles & been sitting for the aforementioned time .

I changed the filter & added some motul 300v.

upon starting the bike i checked the levels again after a few minutes of idling the sight glass was steamed up & milky looking -This is mid coolant change ; Lesson learned - so I drained the oil instantly as i noticed this before when I changed the oil on my z900 & filled it with the same motul 300v oil 🤔☹.

It's overkill oil but its on offer on SportsBikeShop so i gave it a 2nd Chance - what's the deal with this oil?

🏍 2.BRAKE LINES - Installed new brake lines , rear was testing & i really lost my patience doing it however the rear is on point.

The front is spongy & only grips after 3 pumps of the lever. The liquid from the caliper nipples is clear & the master cylinder is clear too.

I've checked the lines to the abs unit & the connection in front of the radiator - no leaks 🤷🏾 any ideas what I'm not doing.

I start with the furthest caliper working my way back to the master cylinder.

there's obviously air in the system somewhere but I've been through 2 bottles of 500ml fluid ☹😔🤦🏾‍♂️ Brought more but I'm at work again for 4 days so.....I admit throughout the 1st bottle i did Not bleed the master cylinder - totally forgot - donut.

🏍3 COOLANT . I've flushed the system with deionised water 3 times & there's still a little blue coming out , the bike doesn't appear to have a coolant bleed outlet (genius suzuki , real helpful) how many flushes does this take?

I couldn't get hold of suzuki ecstar super long life so purchased putoline ultracool 12 & as I began to pour , I noticed it was / is pink - doesn't state this anywhere.
No reviews online, sweetFA on YouTube either.

this is why I decided to flush the system again.

When the system is finally pushing out clear water can I Use the putoline pink stuff , it meets the requirements , no silicates , phosphates , nitrates, aluminium & magnesium friendly etc

Thanks in advance.

If this post is sh1te for you move on , I'm not interested in irrelevant drivel
 

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start and idle all the time is not the best thing to do,,,,,white in oil is normal probably picked up all the condensation in your motor from all the cold starts and idling thats what oil additives do designed to turn water to a white wax looking crap so it dont rust parts.........antifreeze cars say 150.000 miles change so three years a bike can deal with,,,,,,,hope you get lic back soon
 

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On your brakes bleed master cyl first then the calipers otherwise you just pump air into the lines. And yes you can use the pink coolant you have. The engine is not getting hot enough at idle for long enough to burn off condensation inside your engine so you will get that milky look till you can ride again.
 

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imo, never turn on the bike unless you plan on riding. its bad for your car and bikes to start and idle then off. I turn them off in fall, and never turn on until summer. if there is a nice 70 degree day I will go ride, not turn on and then off.

doesn't have enough time to burn off the water out the oil or whatever.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Nice one fellas , there's enough here for me too work with.

I took the clutch cover off & there wasn't alot of build up , it's almost like it gathered all on the sight glass & the cover.

The coolant news is good news 😁 i don't think i needed to change the coolant but while I wasn't riding I thought I'd do some deep maintenance , maintenance that should've been done prior to winter - i took the radiator off & the headers it was Filthy & needed to be done.

As for the the brake bleeding , thanks for the tip , I'll follow your instructions

Thanks again fellas
 

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Discussion Starter #6
90% Sure i know the answer to this , I'll ask anyway

can I use the oil & potentially burn the moisture off if the bike was ridden
 

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Discussion Starter #7
so with further research , Motul is ester based on oil the downside to this is that it doesn't handle moisture well at all & is prone to condensate buildup very quick lying which is why the oil I drained was clear & totally fine.

I'll be sticking with my Mobil 1 or Castrol
 

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I think that the bike's brakes will need to be vacuum bled. This is a problem with a ABS brake pump bike.
I did an brake oil change on the VFR1200F a few years back and got a small amount of air in at the master cylinder and couldn't bleed it out.
Spongy half way to the handle bar. The Mechanics at the Shop said ABS always needs vacuum bleeding today. I was topping up the reservoir, watching the oil level as I bled it by myself, but went a bit too low on the last cycle.
Curses ! Perthaps if you loosen off the top banyo connection at the master cylinder and bleed there, it may work as air gets caught in there too.

Rob.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I think that the bike's brakes will need to be vacuum bled. This is a problem with a ABS brake pump bike.
I did an brake oil change on the VFR1200F a few years back and got a small amount of air in at the master cylinder and couldn't bleed it out.
Spongy half way to the handle bar. The Mechanics at the Shop said ABS always needs vacuum bleeding today. I was topping up the reservoir, watching the oil level as I bled it by myself, but went a bit too low on the last cycle.
Curses ! Perthaps if you loosen off the top banyo connection at the master cylinder and bleed there, it may work as air gets caught in there too.

Rob.
I took the banjo off completely & drained the master cylinder.
i wanted to avoid getting a vacuum pump for budgeting & went with the Oxford solo ( connection's hose to the bleed nipple is awful ; replaced with a woven tygon lead 👌🏾) so the air isn't flowing back into the cylinder due to the valve.

ill try starting at the master cylinder & rebeelding if this fails I'll use the vaccum pump

cheers
 

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Motul 300V or any so called 'racing oil' is not a 'overkill oil'. Racing oils don't have longevity agents in them. Racing engines are supposed to be only to win the race and then thrown away and replaced.... or at least; the oil. The objective is winning races, not engine longevity. .....thus those oils are not designed to remain in crankcases for long period of times.

Racing oil sacrifices lubricity to minimize friction, so the engines will have less resistance to turn on a race, but the potential increased metal wear is not important. After all, the engines are to be discarded after a few races.

I believe there have been some discussions here as to 'racing oils' not been adequate choice for street vehicles.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Motul 300V or any so called 'racing oil' is not a 'overkill oil'. Racing oils don't have longevity agents in them. Racing engines are supposed to be only to win the race and then thrown away and replaced.... The objective is winning races, not engine longevity. .....thus those oils are not designed to remain in crankcases for long period of times.

Racing oil sacrifices lubricity to minimize friction, so the engines have less resistance to turn on a race, but the resulting increased metal wear is not important. After all, the engines are to be discarded after a few races.

I believe there have some discussions here as to 'racing oils' not been adequate choice for street vehicles.
OK that makes sense

Nice One
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Amsoil
I do 5 year intervals, havnt had a bike die yet. Drains looking like new
seen this on a special offer

10w 40
4t
fully synthetic
5 litres
£25

sounds like a total steal , given that everything else with this spec is £40 - £60 for 4litres

Might try this , i know amsoil is a blender / middleman of oils rather than a producer

suppose its hard to go wrong with oils unless your a moron who picks "racing spec oil" for a bike that hasn't been ridden for months & sat in the winter 🤦🏾‍♂️😩😁
 

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Motul 300V or any so called 'racing oil' is not a 'overkill oil'. Racing oils don't have longevity agents in them. Racing engines are supposed to be only to win the race and then thrown away and replaced.... or at least; the oil. The objective is winning races, not engine longevity. .....thus those oils are not designed to remain in crankcases for long period of times.

Racing oil sacrifices lubricity to minimize friction, so the engines will have less resistance to turn on a race, but the potential increased metal wear is not important. After all, the engines are to be discarded after a few races.

I believe there have been some discussions here as to 'racing oils' not been adequate choice for street vehicles.
Ive used Motul full synthetic once, on a gsxr1000. Never again. A lot of people may swear by it, but it made the valve train on my bike very noisy. I will say one thing. Oil pressure was instant, even when sat for a few months.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ive used Motul full synthetic once, on a gsxr1000. Never again. A lot of people may swear by it, but it made the valve train on my bike very noisy. I will say one thing. Oil pressure was instant, even when sat for a few months.
I found a thread in another forum with 2 guys with Gixxers , one k8 & the other L7 both said a similar thing - never again,, just didn't agree with their bikes

maybe climate & compression ratio has alot to do with it 🤷🏾‍♂️
 

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I’m a preferred customer. Harleys, Scion, mustang, all my previous sportbikes and current gsxs all eat my amsoil.

I have never had any issues. Signature series is the bees knees in cars, I just use full synthetic whatever weight called for amsoil.
 

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2 things come to mind with your brakes ....

loosen your MC from the bars and turn upside down as much as you can during some point of the bleeding process. Tap MC and lines with screw driver handle. Tap the banjo joints with a screw driver handle to dislodge any possible trapped internal bubbles.

zip tie the brake lever to the bars all the way back “full stop” over night.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
2 things come to mind with your brakes ....

loosen your MC from the bars and turn upside down as much as you can during some point of the bleeding process. Tap MC and lines with screw driver handle. Tap the banjo joints with a screw driver handle to dislodge any possible trapped internal bubbles.

zip tie the brake lever to the bars all the way back “full stop” over night.
a few options here thanks , been through a few cable ties already though 😂
 

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I used Motul 5100 before and didn't get on with it.

As someone else mentioned tie the brake lever back over night, quite often that does the trick.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I used Motul 5100 before and didn't get on with it.

As someone else mentioned tie the brake lever back over night, quite often that does the trick.
nah it was left like this for 4 days & did nothing , need to to rebleed the calipers again , tap hoses & maybe lift the calipers above the cylinder

if none of that works I'll get a vacuum pump £50 on sportsbikeshop.co.uk - i grabbed & used the Oxford solo (one way valve) no pumping , simply open the nipple & the valve does the rest.

I'm gonna delve deeper into motul & see the sourcing & refining process

too many folk stating an oil not working for them is kinda suspect
 
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